Holidays in Dombai are the most attractive places. A trip to Dombay: what to do there in summer

Dombay is a land of untouched nature, snow-capped mountains and forests. Athletes and walkers flock here. The Dombay Valley, where the resort village is located, is surrounded by mountain ranges. On the southern side it is the Main Caucasian Range, on the eastern side - the Dombay-Ulgen gorge, on the northern side - the Amanauz gorge and the Alibek gorge on the western side.

And to make it easier to navigate, below is a list of all the attractions of Dombay with photos and descriptions.

It occupies an area of ​​85 thousand hectares on the northern slope of the Caucasus Range. The Dombay Valley, where vacationers stay, is the southern part of the Teberda Nature Reserve.

There are many beautiful places on the territory of the reserve that are worth visiting in your free time. These are mysterious gorges, observation platforms, snowy peaks, glaciers and lakes. There are about 150 lakes in the reserve, and the famous one is Lake Klukhorskoe. It is located at an altitude of 2676 m above sea level and is covered with ice almost all year round.

And the main river of the reserve, Teberda, is associated with legends and stories. According to one of them, the name means “God’s gift.”

Amanauz Gorge

Translated from Karachay, “Aman” means evil, and “auz” means mouth. This is what the ancient inhabitants of the Dombay valley called it. The fact is that the Amanauz River flows through the entire gorge. The water crashing against the rocks makes a loud roar. It was believed that this was an evil spirit and the residents did not dare to go to the gorge.

The passage through the gorge is quite narrow and is surrounded by the peaks of the Belalakaya Mountains and Theater Peak. Even in summer, light barely penetrates here, and there are snow islands on rivers and slopes.

A walk along the gorge starts from the resort village of Dombay, goes along the river and ends on a cliff. From the cliff there is a view of the stormy Amanauz River, which makes its way into a narrow gorge.

Each attraction in Dombay is unique. But it is worth highlighting the Murudzhinsky lakes in the valley of the Ullu-Murudzhu River at an altitude of 3000 m. The lakes include 15 reservoirs, but tourists tend to see only two. You can only get to the lakes on foot, but it is better to resort to the help of a guide and allocate two days for the walk with an overnight stay.

Blue Murudzhinskoye Lake differs from other lakes in its size. The diameter is 500 m, and the depth is about 52 m. It is called blue due to the color of the water.

From the Blue Lake a hiking trail leads to the Black Lake. But the water in the lake is not black, but rather dark green. In the vicinity of the lakes, tourists will enjoy amazing landscapes and encounters with wild mountain goats.

Sentinsky Temple

This is a Christian temple, which is located on the territory of the village of Nizhnyaya Teberda. Although the temple dates back to 965, it is in relatively good condition. Inside the building you can see the remains of a fresco, and a stone mausoleum was built next to it.

The temple is considered one of the oldest buildings in Alanya.

Or Baduki in simple speech. They are a cascade of three lakes on the Baduk River. You can get to the lakes in 3 hours, so the trip to them will take one day without an overnight stay. It’s worth visiting the Baduk Lakes in the fall. Around the lakes there are pine and birch thickets, which fill with colors in autumn.

The first lake in the cascade is small. The water does not warm up above 5⁰C. There is a path along the left bank of the river to the second lake. A gazebo for relaxation and picnic was built next to the lake. You can get to the third lake in two ways. The third lake is the largest of the cascade and is located at an altitude of 1990 m above sea level.

Alibek glacier and waterfall

One of the most popular and must-visit places. The glacier viewpoint is easily accessible, and along the way there are many trails to other attractions.

The route to Alibek starts from the camp site of the same name along a forest path. The trail will lead to the Uzun-Tala clearing, from which you will have a view of the glacier and the snowy tops of the mountains. Even on a hot summer day, the glacier is covered with a layer of ice and snow, just like in winter. The Alibek glacier is not the only one in the vicinity of Dombay, but it is the largest. Unfortunately, the area of ​​the glacier has been decreasing over the years, but it never ceases to amaze tourists with its power and contrast to the green forests and meadows.

Returning from the glacier back, you will meet a sign to the Alibek waterfall. The path to it is easy and will take no more than half an hour. The waterfall is 25 meters high and falls from smooth stones called “ram’s foreheads”. Alibek waterfall is powerful and loud, the splashes from it reach tourists a couple of kilometers from the waterfall.

Chuchkhur waterfall

This waterfall was formed from the Chuchkhur River. It descends from the Chuchkhur gorge to the Dombay-Ulgen gorge. The waterfall has three cascades that are easily accessible. The path starts from the village from the Crocus department. First you will pass Leah's glade, and then Russian glade. It will offer the first view of the waterfall. After the Russian Glade the trail will branch. Turning right leads to the gorge, and turning left leads to the Chuchkhur waterfall. The road to the waterfall will lie through alpine and subalpine meadows. Along the way you will encounter stone blocks higher than 5 meters, which were brought to the meadows by descending glaciers thousands of years ago.

The waterfall consists of three cascades. First, the trail leads to the middle cascade, from it you can climb to the upper one, but the path there is more difficult and it’s not worth going in rainy weather. From the upper cascade there is a panoramic view of the Dombay-Ulgen peak (4046 m).

Another local attraction that is worth visiting during your holiday in Dombay. It is better to combine a walk to the Devil's Mill with a walk to the Amanauz gorge. There are signs to the waterfall. The main thing is not to get lost with it and not to go beyond the signs indicating the border zone.

During the hike to the Devil's Mill you will come across many small waterfalls and streams. These are all the results of melting glaciers. The waterfall itself passes through a narrow crevice in the shape of the letter S. The water falls along a steep inclined surface, forming a mill of jets. Near the Devil's Mill there is a small observation deck on a steep cliff. Therefore, you should be extremely careful while walking.

The peak of Dombay-Ulgen captivates the attention of tourists at any time of the year. In summer, the icy tops bathe in the rays of the bright sun; in winter, the reflections of sunset can be seen on the snow cover. And in autumn, when the entire forest becomes colorful, the mountain looks even brighter and more contrasting. All year round the tops of the mountains are shrouded in snow and ice. The rapid Teberda River originates from the Ulgen glaciers, descending towards the village.

You can look at Mount Dombay-Ulgen from anywhere in the village. This mountain is the highest in the Western Caucasus. The mountain consists of three peaks with heights: 4046 m, 4036 m and 3950 m. A ridge extends from the main and high peak, which is popularly called the “Dombay saddle”.

The lake is located not far between the Alibek and Bilingual glacier. If the hike to it is combined with a walk to the waterfall, you will have to return to the Alibek camp site and follow the signs to the lake. The trail will not be difficult, but in some places you will have to cross mountain rivers on bridges and walk along kurumniks. Kurumnik is a mound of stones, fragments of rocks and rocks.

Turje Lake is of glacial origin. The water there is bright blue and until mid-summer is covered with a layer of ice. Only the bravest travelers dare to swim in Lake Turye. Mountain goats, called aurochs, are often found near the lake. It was they who gave the name to this lake.

What else to see in Dombay

In addition to the listed attractions, there are many more places to visit in Dombay. No one will have the question “What to do?” and “What to do?”

Extreme lovers can visit the top of Semenov-Bashi. There is a ski slope with difficult sections, steep slopes and turns.

Dombay is a resort village in the south of Karachay-Cherkessia in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains. Dombay is located at an altitude of 1600 meters above sea level on the Dombay glade, surrounded by gorges. From the Karachay language “dombai” is translated as bison; the local region was full of herds of these powerful animals. But the bison was exterminated; its population is currently being restored thanks to its closest relative, the American bison. The village of Dombay appeared in the 20s of the last century as a separate tourist center. This happened as part of the development of tourism in the North Caucasus. The village gained wide popularity already in the 60s, when roads, cable cars and hotels began to be built here.

Hotels in Dombay

Dombay is a small village where, for some reason, large investments have not come. Therefore, we can assume that the resort’s infrastructure does not reach a high level. For example, there is not a single chain hotel in Dombay. You won’t find big brands here; all hotels in Dombay are essentially guest houses. The only exception is the Crystal Hotel. Recently, this is the only hotel in Dombay that has passed the examination and received the 3-star category.

The white brick hotel building with a green roof can be seen from almost every corner of the village.

In addition to the Crystal Hotel, there are other hotels in Dombay. The total number of hotel rooms in Dombay is simply huge; without exaggeration, almost every building in the village is a hotel. In the summer, you don’t have to book rooms in advance, just go to any hotel, look at the room and check into the one you like. But if you are planning your trip for the winter season, you should not count on luck and it is better to book a room in advance. By using the search for the best deals, you can save a lot:

The difference in prices in summer and winter can reach 300-400%. This indicates that winter is the main season in Dombay. The same number in the summer can cost 2,000 rubles as a promotion, and on New Year’s holidays 6,000 rubles.

Food in Dombay, prices

You will absolutely not have any problems with food in Dombay. Many hotels include breakfast with your stay. You will be fed breakfast so that it is more like lunch. We were fed such breakfasts throughout our stay in Dombay at the Bostan Hotel, which is located next to the Crystal Hotel.

In Dombay you can easily find a cheap canteen or an expensive restaurant, as they say, to suit every taste and budget. Canteens, as a rule, offer set lunches and dinners, the cost of such lunches is 300-350 rubles per person. Dinner at a restaurant consisting of a first course, barbecue and drinks will cost you 1000-1500 rubles per person. Restaurants and cafes, along with hotels, are present in literally every building in the village of Dombay.

On the main street, which is the only one in Dombay, not far from the entrance to the village, there are travel agencies that provide transfer services to the attractions of Dombay.

Dombay map

The village of Dombay has one main street. Karachaevskaya Street, along which everyone enters the village, makes a big turn and seems to embrace the village. Thus, you can go around the village by leaving the lower cable car station, walking along Karachaevskaya Street, and then passing through the bridge to return to the cable car station.
Map of Dombay village
The lower station of the cable car in Dombay is located on the main street, not far from the entrance to the village, and there is a large market nearby.

Kisses bridge

Nearby there is a cable-stayed bridge over the Amanauz River. The height is impressive.

If we cross the bridge, we will find ourselves at another cable car, built back in Soviet times. Such conclusions can be easily drawn by looking at the architecture of the building of the lower cable car station. This is a pendulum cableway with two carriages moving along it with a capacity of up to 35 people each.

There is another building from the Soviet era in Dombay. This is the Mountain Peaks Hotel. This is the highest hotel in Dombay.

Market in Dombay

There is a large market in Dombay. First of all, goods of our own production and manufacture are sold here. Woolen socks, knee pads, belts, slippers and scarves made of sheep and dog wool.

Here you will find honey and a variety of jams. Jam is made from almost everything here. For example, jam made from pine cones, which give a unique aroma to the jam. By the way, it’s very tasty, and the cones from this jam can also be eaten.

And the main product on the market is all kinds of mountain herbs, both in herbal preparations and separately. Thyme, oregano, rhododendron, mint, lemon balm, rose hips, many berries and other herbs. A wide selection of different herbs and herbs will cost you on average 50 rubles per 100 grams.

Money in Dombay

In Dombay there are several ATMs and even a Sberbank branch that is closed on weekends. ATMs can be indispensable to you for one simple reason. Not everywhere in Dombay you will be able to pay by card. Not even all hotels are ready to accept card payments, let alone small shops and canteens. And although this situation is not universal, it is still better to be prepared and have a reserve of cash. For example, if you can pay for a cable car ride with a card, you can’t pay for a field trip to the waterfalls.

Sights of the village of Dombay

In addition to the above-mentioned cable-stayed bridge, the main attraction of Dombay is the mountains. No matter where you turn your head, there are only mountains around. The nature of Karachay-Cherkessia is such that the gorges here are very narrow and the mountains almost hang overhead. This creates its own unique surroundings. The mountains of the North Caucasus make you fall in love with them, and the nature of Karachay-Cherkessia plays an important role in this.

The mountain river Amanauz flows through the entire village.

A mosque was recently built in the village on the Amanauz River.

You can walk along the river and admire the nature and mountains.

You can also walk in the other direction along the main road before leaving the village of Dombay.

Sights of Dombay. The most important and interesting sights of Dombay - photos and videos, descriptions and reviews, location, websites.

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Not only skiers go to Dombay, but also connoisseurs of unique landscapes. Nature has given these places beautiful sights, hidden among the gloomy ridges, glaciers and forests of the region. On the southern side, the Main Caucasus Range adjoins Dombay, and three large gorges, Dombay-Ulgen, Amanauz and Alibek, form the famous Dombay Glade at the southern end of the Teberda Nature Reserve. Popular excursion routes to the most picturesque places of the resort begin from here. It is more convenient and safer to travel along them as part of excursion groups, fortunately, vouchers are sold by almost all travel agencies not only of the resort, but also of many cities of the Stavropol Territory.

Alibek Glacier

Perhaps the most popular attraction of Dombay is the Alibek glacier. He is alone in the Teberda Nature Reserve, whose tongue reaches the dense forest zone. Even in summer it is full-blown winter here. Experienced travelers believe that whoever has not seen Alibek has not been to Dombay. To get to the glacier, you need to take a car to the Alibek tourist center (office site), and then climb along forest paths to the Uzun-Tala clearing. From it, a “classical” landscape with a glacier and mountains appears before your eyes. GPS coordinates: 43.291718, 41.549767.

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Mount Belalakaya and Semenov-Bashi Ridge

The Dombay glade is adjacent to the symbol of the region - Mount Belalakaya, also known as the “Striped Rock” (GPS coordinates: 43.264759, 41.583184). It received this name because of the 50 m wide white “belts” of quartz cutting through the rocks. It is hard to believe that just a few thousand years ago, in place of the 3861 m high mountain there was a completely flat plain. Therefore, Belalakaya is popular not only among hikers, but also among geologists. Also next to the Dombay glade there is another natural attraction - the Semenov-Bashi ridge (GPS coordinates: 43.321234, 41.608015). In its eastern part there is a dome-shaped protrusion, from where a bewitching panorama opens onto the valleys of mountain rivers, the Main Range and, of course, the heart of this region - the Dombay glade.

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This spacious, relatively flat area is located in the south of the Teberda Nature Reserve at the confluence of the Amanauz, Dombay-Ulgen and Alibek rivers. Now a large tourist cluster with hotels and apres-ski has been opened in the clearing. Skiers ski on the slopes of Mussa-Achitara (3012 m). The ski area is organized at an altitude of 1630-3012 m, and in total the slopes stretch for 20 km.

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This protected area is located on the northern slope and lateral spurs of the Main Caucasus Range at the headwaters of the Teberda and its tributaries (office site). The reserve is one of the most popular reserves in Russia. It’s not surprising, because legends are made about the beauty of this region. It is in the valleys washed by the rapid waters of Teberda and Gonachkhir, and in the pine trees on the shores of numerous tarn and moraine lakes. True, we must remember that all these treasures are hidden among inaccessible forests and vast meadows.

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Amanauz Gorge

Amanauz Gorge is a real open-air museum. It crashes into the thickness of the Watershed Caucasus Range, as if “flowing” from the Dombay glade. In the Karachay language, “Aman auz” means “evil mouth.” And the name speaks volumes - this is the narrowest gorge of Dombai and therefore very gloomy: the sun peeks here only from time to time, rain and fog are frequent. The picturesque Devil's Mill waterfall is located in the gorge. An excursion to Amanauz usually takes half a day.

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In the heart of the majestic mountains of the gray Caucasus lies one of the oldest tourist and mountaineering centers in our country. This is Dombay - a ski Eden, located in a protected corner of Karachay-Cherkessia. The incredibly beautiful landscapes of the North Caucasus, the purest mountain air and amazing conditions for active recreation attract tourists from all over Russia, as well as from near and far abroad.

The modern resort of Dombay is a unique center for mountaineering and skiing, a venue for international competitions, significant events in the cultural and sports life of the country.

Resort location

The Dombay glade is an intermountain basin at an altitude of 1620 meters above sea level - the place where Dombay is located. located in the basin of the Teberda mountain stream, on the territory of the Teberda National Nature Reserve. The high-mountain valley nestles comfortably at the foot of the Main Valley, where the waters of the Dombay-Ulgen, Amanauz and Alibek rivers merge.

The clearing is ringed by a chain of bizarre snow-capped peaks with an unusually poetic name - Dombay-Ulgen (translated from Karachay - a killed bison), Sulahat - a sleeping girl, the striped rock Belalakaya, Dzhuguturlyuchat (habitat of the aurochs), Ine Peak, the majestic Erzog glorified by Vizbor.

Thanks to the mild climate and favorable geographical location, Dombay always has wonderful weather: massive mountain slopes protect the resort from the winds, and the sun illuminates the valley more than 320 days a year. Heavy snowfalls and stable snow cover determine the long ski season, lasting from November to May.

Dombay - ski Mecca of the North Caucasus

The sunny land of tales and legends - the amazing Caucasus - has long attracted travelers, researchers and climbers. Since the 20s of the last century, Dombayskaya Polyana has been developing as a center for tourism and ski holidays. Today Dombay is a ski resort, rapidly developing its capabilities and infrastructure. The skiing conditions here are close to those of alpine resorts: modern winter pistes, more than 20 kilometers long, an extensive network of ski lifts, a high level of service, and the main advantage is the wild, untouched beauty of the surrounding mountains.

Ski slopes of the resort

The ski slopes in Dombay originate at an altitude of more than 3 thousand meters at the top of the monumental Mussa-Achitara ridge. A system of slopes of varying difficulty levels and lengths is suitable for both beginners and ski aces. The slopes, according to the accepted classification system, are conventionally divided into “green” (simple slopes for beginners), “blue” (average level of difficulty) and “red” - for confident pros.

The main ski area is located at an altitude of 2600-3012 meters and is characterized by smooth, calm terrain. For children and completely “green” beginners, the simplest gentle slopes, the so-called “paddling pools”, equipped

For thrill-seekers and professional athletes, the steep slopes of the northern part of Mussa-Achitara and the Gonachkhir gorge offer ample opportunities for freeride. Fans of heli-skiing can expect a breathtaking ride along the untouched slopes from the peaks of Semenov-Bashi and the Alibek glacier, where extreme sports enthusiasts are dropped off by a local helicopter. For skiing in the late hours, the resort provides night lighting of the slopes.

Dombay lift system

Dombay is a ski resort served by several lift systems:

• Five stages of the cable car, built back in the 70-80s of the 20th century. The fourth and fifth lines of the cable car deliver to the main ski area. The fourth stage leads to the so-called “Moussa glade” at an altitude of 2.5 km. From here, the fifth double chairlift takes tourists to the crest of the ridge.
• Eight-seater gondola lift.

• The new complex, which includes six- and four-seat chairlifts, takes skiers and snowboarders to altitudes of up to 3,200 meters.
• Yugoslav cable car with a length of 1700 meters.
• A cable car, including two carriages with a capacity of up to 40 people, lifting tourists and skiers to a height of 2260 m.
• A network of drag and towing roads serving training slopes.

Resort attractions

The most important attraction of this region is the surrounding splendor of the Teberdinsky Nature Reserve. Crystal mountain rivers and picturesque gorges, rapid waterfalls, the cold beauty of alpine lakes - an amazing panorama of these places opens up from the observation deck on the top of Mussa-Achitara. From here you can see distant Elbrus shining in the cloudy haze.

A remarkable place and a kind of calling card of Dombay is the original eight-bed Tarelka hotel, made in the shape of an alien ship.

On the way to the Alikbek gorge there is a quiet and memorable place - the cemetery of fallen climbers. People come here to pay tribute to the memory and respect of those who died in the mountains while climbing or trying to save the lives of their comrades. On the path leading to the graves there is a sign with words from Vysotsky’s song: “There are no scarlet roses and mourning ribbons, and the stone that gave you peace does not look like a monument...”.

Entertainment and excursions in Dombay

Dombay is a ski resort where, in addition to an exciting variety of slopes, guests are offered a lot of opportunities for active and varied recreation. You can admire the expanses of the snow-covered Caucasus while taking an ATV ride or on an exciting snowmobile safari. Fans of thrills will not be left indifferent by the opportunity to make a stunning descent in a special zorb, a voluminous transparent ball.

Special mention should be made of exciting paragliding trips with an instructor, which offer unforgettable views of mountain landscapes from a bird's eye view. Confident skiers can try their hand at speedriding - an extreme combination of paragliding and alpine skiing.

On the territory of the complex there is an ice skating rink, sleigh rides, horseback riding and walking excursions to the picturesque corners of the Teberda Nature Reserve.

Dombay in summer and autumn

Reserved Dombay is a ski resort that is worth visiting not only in winter. The delightful nature of this region opens up excellent opportunities for recreation in summer and autumn. When the snow cover melts from the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains, the alpine meadows of the Dombai Valley bloom with a silky carpet of delicate plants. Travelers can see the beauty of centuries-old fir forests, turquoise mountain lakes, thousand-year-old glaciers against the backdrop of a clear sunny sky.

In summer, Dombay has a special cool climate, favorable for long walking excursions. At this time of year, popular tourist attractions include mountain biking and horseback riding, climbing the Caucasus peaks, and trekking. In autumn, the nature of Teberda lights up with a motley palette of golden-crimson colors.

Dombay - ski resort: prices for lifting and equipment rental

Prices for lift services depend on the choice of lifting system. Since the main cable car complexes belong to different owners, there is no single tariff on Dombay. There is a 50% discount for children and pensioners.

• The cost of a one-time ascent along the old chairlift depends on the queue and varies from 150 to 250 rubles; a day pass will cost a tourist from 500 to 1000 rubles.
• The cost of a ski pass for both stages of the new cable car complex will be 1,600 rubles per day for an adult. A one-time lift on each line costs 500 rubles.
• The services of the pendulum cableway for skiers and snowboarders will cost 200 rubles, for tourists - 300 rubles for one lift.

The price for renting a set of ski and snowboard equipment is approximately 400-450 rubles per day. On the territory of the complex you can also purchase new equipment.

How to get there

There are several ways to get to the corner of Karachay-Cherkessia, where Dombay is located. The ski resort is located 230 kilometers from Mineralnye Vody airport, and the easiest way to transfer is by air. A bus runs from the airport daily (during the ski season from December to March), taking tourists to the village center. You can also take a taxi or rent a car.

If you get to the ski resort by train, your destination can be the stations in Nevinnomysk, Pyatigorsk, Nalchik or Mineralnye Vody. The journey will take from 24 to 38 hours. You can take a taxi from the station to Dombay; there are regular bus routes.

Direct flights of comfortable intercity buses run from Moscow to Dombayskaya Polyana. You can also get to your vacation spot without transfers on your own, that is, in your own car.

The protected places of the majestic Caucasus welcome their guests all year round with unique nature, healing air and the splendor of high mountain valleys. Tourist reviews unanimously rank Dombay Ski Resort as one of the most impressive and beautiful resorts in our country.

When I went on a train through the North Caucasus, I assumed, of course, that I would get vivid impressions. But I had no idea how much this region would captivate me. How beautiful these mountains, passes, gorges will be...

And in this article I want to tell you what a ski resort is Dombay resort in summer.

What does an ordinary person know about Dombai? That it is somewhere in the Caucasus, that avid skiers strive to get there, that it is beautiful there. We went there with approximately the same knowledge. And this is what came out of it.

Dombay: why you should come here even if you are not a skier

Usually, when people say the words “unique nature” to me when describing a place, I begin to suspect that it is not so unique after all.

Well, think for yourself: would it occur to anyone to put emphasis on the unique nature in a guide to Austria? I doubt. For this is illogical, if only because in neighboring Germany and Switzerland it will be very similar. In general, all big mountains are somewhat similar. And the most interesting thing: having visited some big mountains, you fall in love with all the others. Did you notice?

How to get there

By plane You can fly to the airport in Kavminvody. From the Mineralnye Vody bus station you can take a bus to Teberdy , and from there by taxi or bus to Dombay.

But the most pleasant option is, of course, to travel around the Caucasus, as we do - in your own car. We drove from the direction of Kislovodsk and left the mountains on the highway just near Cherkessk.

By car from Cherkessk (the capital of Karachay-Cherkessia) you will reach Dombay along the A-155 highway in 2-2.5 hours. And believe me, this will be one of the most beautiful roads of your life!

While we were driving, I involuntarily had associations with the same Swiss landscapes:

“Alpine pastorals” would be the name of these paintings if the minaret towers and rickety fences were removed from them. And add the bell towers of Catholic churches, coupled with high-speed rail and a highway.

By the way, one of the peculiarities of this region is cars without license plates. This is how local horsemen ride. The traffic police officers obviously don’t touch them (hey, yes, they’re still their own!), but it’s unlikely that they’ll be able to come to an agreement with the camera that the feds installed and which records everyone by their license plate number.

Instead of cows with bells, lean stallions graze on the slopes along the road. In the Caucasus, it’s customary to be proud and admire horses! As in, Karachay-Cherkessia has its own source of pride.

The existence of two separate breeds, Kabardian and Karachay, was officially recognized in 1935 - although in the first volume of the state stud book all Caucasian breeds were united under the general term “mountain”. In 1943, after the repressions and deportation of the Karachais to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, all references to this people, including the name of the local horse breed, were erased. Of course, the Karachai horses themselves continued to exist, but they were recorded as Kabardian. It was possible to “rehabilitate” the breed as a separate breed only in the 1980s, but the controversy still does not subside.

And we are already approaching Teberda - once the largest anti-tuberculosis resort in the USSR.

Teberda: say yes to nature

The resort is located at an altitude of 1300−1400 meters above sea level, in the picturesque valley of the Teberda River.

This resort will become your transit point if you go to Dombay not by car, but fly by plane to the Caucasian Mineral Waters.

For a resident of large cities, Teberda will seem like a large village. But once upon a time it was with it that the tourist boom to these places began. Only then it wasn’t skiers or mountain trekking enthusiasts who were eager to come here on vacation. And people suffering from tuberculosis, which was called the “plague of the 19th century.”

Teberda's climate is characterized by low atmospheric pressure, low humidity and high air ionization (50 times higher than in cities and on the plain). Another point is the special wind regime. Both fresh air from the surrounding mountains and warm air from the Black Sea enter the valley. At the same time, thanks to the mountains, biologically active substances and phytoncides produced by plants - relict pines and meadow herbs - are retained in the valley. So this place is one big natural inhaler.

In 1870, in these places, the wife of Captain Kuzovlev, who was the right hand of the commander of this entire district, was successfully cured of consumption. To celebrate, the captain built a dacha in these places, where his wife lived happily for another 20 years.

Another lucky person who was helped by the local climate from tuberculosis was Islam Krymshamkhalov, a Karachay artist and public figure. Having settled in Teberda, Krymshamkhalov became one of the main developers of the resort. In 1910, a letter was written to the then governor of the Caucasus, Illarion Ivanovich Vorontsov-Dashkov, and the following year the construction of state-owned dachas - prototypes of modern boarding houses - began in Teberda.

That same year, at the Pirogov Congress of Doctors in Moscow, Teberda was officially recognized mountain climatic resort . Thus, Teberda became an alternative not only to the Crimean one, where domestic asthmatics and tuberculosis patients were traditionally treated, but also to expensive resorts and. Here they are, the origins of import substitution, friends :-)

The first Soviet health resorts appeared here in 1923, and in the 1930s Teberda turned into a privileged resort; large ministries and departments built sanatoriums here.

Teberda has not lost either its status as a resort of federal significance or its main advantages. The nature here is still defiantly beautiful, as we have personally seen. And it is through Teberda, just like a hundred years ago, that the only road passes through - the former Military Sukhumi, now the federal highway A-155.

From here there are only 25 kilometers left to Dombay (20 minutes by car).

And the closer we get to it, the more it begins to seem to me that I am again traveling in the mountains of Switzerland...

Because that pyramidal peak over there reminds me very much of the Matterhorn.

And here I am Dombay village. It is located at 1600 m above sea level. This place is called Dombayskaya Polyana. Three gorges converge here. And accordingly, three rivers merge together - Alibek, Dombay-Ulgen and Amanauz.

The town itself is small. Just a couple of turns and we are already entering the parking lot at the lower cable car station.

Dombay in summer: what is worth coming for

Mount Dombay-Ulgen is the highest peak of the Western Caucasus (4046 m), which gives its name to the entire region. It is located east of the resort village of Dombay, on the border of Abkhazia and Karachay-Cherkessia.

Dombay has been known as a ski resort in our country since the late 1960s. Nowadays, in terms of infrastructure, the resort lags behind more modern competitors. But the prices here are more affordable, and the atmosphere is almost homely.

Before we had time to get out of the car, an uncle jumped up to us and, in his own way, offered us not to overpay for the ride on the new cable car, but to take a ride on the old one, which was 300 rubles cheaper.

We looked at her... Maybe it’s romantic, of course, but I don’t want to risk it. We go to the ticket office of the new cable car.

Prices for a new lift

One lift to 3 stages costs 1050 rubles. Winter ski passes (judging by the price list at the checkout) were as follows: for 1 day - 1600 rubles, 2 days - 2840, 3 - 3910 rubles. Very sincere, compared to Krasnopolyansk prices.

The rise begins at 1590, which is already quite a lot. The first stage of the cable car - up to 2277 meters - is a gondola, i.e. 8-seater closed cabins. And the view of the valley from them is like this:

At 2277 meters you can walk a little, take photos and gather your courage. If you are afraid of heights, there will be a chair lift next.

If you like hand-made souvenirs, then here you will also find great shopping:

And before boarding the chair, you should warm yourself up - the temperature at the top will be 10 degrees lower than in the valley. So take advantage of your last chance.

We go to the chair. Of course, there are no queues for boarding now.

We rise higher and higher. So the snow appeared on the highway. There are no snow cannons visible, which means it’s a natural product, as they say.

As I learned later, after returning from Dombay, an artificial snowmaking system had already been purchased and will appear on the ski slopes of the Dombay resort in December 2018, by the beginning of the new winter season.

In the meantime, let's admire the natural beauties. The landscapes are simply breathtaking! Is it possible to put this into words?

True, the sight of people riding in oncoming seats is a little alarming - they are wrapped in clothes, like the Germans near Moscow:

But after Elbrus, which greeted us with a snowstorm, we are no longer afraid of anything.

Why is it worth taking the cable car in summer?

Dombay Glade and the mountains surrounding it are legendary places. For climbers, Dombay is generally a cult place. It was with them, the climbers, that the development of the area began in the pre-war years. The skiers arrived later. But it is for their sake that money is now being invested in the region’s infrastructure.

Although it is the old recognizable species that remain the calling card of Dombay. Like, for example, that hotel in the shape of a “flying saucer”:

In this regard, local guides will definitely tell you the legend of how aliens once landed at this place, and they liked it so much that they changed their minds about flying away and parked their “ship” here forever... Well, looking at the panoramas of these mountains, you willingly believe it.

At the same time, I note to myself that trails in Dombay not difficult: quite wide and not too steep in slope.

We are approaching 3035 meters above sea level. It’s certainly cool here, and warm clothes come in handy. You can go another 200 m higher on a chairlift. But for now we decide to look around here.

First, we go to capture the excellent view of Mount Belalakaya:

If you, like us, have seen many mountain resorts during your tourist life, and your archive contains 100,500 photos with mountain views, then this inscription will remind you exactly where you enjoyed the panoramas of snow-capped peaks.

There are simple cafes here, where skiers apparently dine.

Tourists with pretensions will definitely not be enthusiastic about visiting such “authentic” establishments. I’m not even talking about the toilet, which hangs over the abyss (note that the cost of visiting is 30 rubles):

There are also about a dozen different souvenir stalls here - what if you urgently need that cute hat with ears to be completely happy?

But this is understandable, everything is as it should be. Where there are tourists, there are souvenirs.

But we still don’t understand what this guy was doing at the ski resort with two machine guns in his arms:

We let him go ahead and wait for the next chair. We decided not to climb another 200 meters: everything was drowned in a cloud, visibility was zero, and we were not in the mood for completely freezing on the chair.

On the way down, a piercing wind blows in your face. But we still manage to take a couple more beautiful shots:

At the bottom we are overtaken by a feeling of hunger, and in search of food we go to the other side of the river, across the bridge:

How much does it cost to eat in Dombay?

On the other side of the river we find tightly packed shopping arcades and a couple of cafes.

Prices for food in Dombay in summer and winter are almost the same and depend on the level of the establishment. The khychins we love cost from 100 rubles in a cafe, from 130-200 in a restaurant. The main fillings are meat, potatoes, cottage cheese or soft cheese with herbs. But you can’t guess with them: they can serve small ones, with the fillings the cat cried, or, on the contrary, they can bring such ones that you can fill up with this one snack.

The main dishes include: river and lake trout (from 250 rubles per serving, usually one large fish), mountain and Karachay meat cost the same. A kettle of mountain tea with honey or jam - from 150 rubles. Lagman and shurpa usually start from 150 rubles per serving. In general, you can eat in a cafe from 500 rubles for two.

What to see in the vicinity of Dombay

And we begin to desperately regret that we did not take a couple more days to visit Dombay...

Some attractions are accessible by our car - roads are built to them. However, the mountain roads cannot be traveled by bus, so there are no large groups of excursionists at these sites. To get to some of them, as we were told, we would have to walk along picturesque mountain paths.

In general, summer holidays in Dombay can be very, very varied; there is no shortage of excursions and entertainment.

Prices for some activities: ATV rental - about 2000 rubles; horseback riding - from 1000 rubles per person; fishing - from 500 rubles

There is one caveat: many of the natural beauties are the Teberda Biosphere Reserve, in addition, the border with Abkhazia passes nearby. Therefore, the scheme here is the same as in Krasnaya Polyana: if you go on these routes, you will have to apply for a pass to the border zone. Previously, it had to be done in advance (2-3 days in advance) in Cherkessk, but now you can get it directly from the forester on the route. But you need to have your passport with you and fill out a form. This is done for free.

But the trails in the reserve are paid. The cost of passage is 100-150 rubles. Agree, this is not much, if all these lakes and waterfalls are really as beautiful as in the photos in tourist brochures.

Where to stay in Dombay

There are quite a lot of guest houses and hotels in Dombay. They all differ from each other in the level of accommodation and the quality of services provided. However, all Dombay hotels are famous for their Caucasian hospitality and home comfort. Price levels in the summer and winter months are, of course, different.

In the off-season, a double standard can be found from 1,300 rubles; in winter, room rates in most hotels start from 2,000 rubles. Modest apartments cost from 2 thousand rubles, higher levels - from 4 thousand. As a rule, prices increase even more for the New Year.

We vacationed in Dombay in the off-season (May 2018) and, choosing options for ourselves, looked at the following hotels:

• Chateau Leopard
• Hotel National
• Crystal Hotel
• Meridian
• Andersen Hotel
• Hotel Gonachkhir

If you need something simpler, you can check out these options:

• Hotel Sokol
• Crown of Dombay
• Star
• Altair-Dombay
• Sky Hotel
• Hotel Stella

If you do not want to organize your holiday in Dombay yourself, then you can buy a ready-made tour.

All hands on deck!

In general, if you plan your vacation in Dombay outside the ski season (which lasts from December to April), get ready for dizzying mountain trails and incredible adventures. And take at least a week for your vacation!

Because now, having returned from this region, I have already made a whole list of why I want to return there. If you are also a supporter of active recreation, then these places will also captivate you...

I look forward to your comments and questions.

See you on the blog!