HOW TO CHOOSE A TENT

Here, I am buying myself a tent ... Tell me, friends of Tramontana, do you remember how you once did not have your own tent? Well, that is, there was not at all: not a single tent of its own. And there were only clubs, friends or parents. In which you, in fact, spent the night on your first "trips" and "hikes". And then the moment came when you said to yourself: that's it, I'm looking for a tent. His own.
Do you remember? And now, from the heights of what we have lived, we will try to give recommendations to those who also took it and decided to have a tent for the first time.

First bold recommendation- look at double so-called tourist tent double(more precisely, two-layer) constructions... On a frame made of aluminum tubes.

REFERENCE:

As for the terms, it is customary to refer to the tourist (or tourist) tents as their most universal type. In such they live in the forest and in the steppe, at the foot of the rocks and on the glaciers. At least in February, at least in June, although everywhere there will be their own peculiarities.

In addition to tourist tents, it is customary to distinguish two more types of tents: for super-extreme, as well as for super-comfortable conditions. Accordingly, extreme tents (for stormy conditions) and camping tents. This is the most general classification since many products have hybrid properties.

And there are also tents for "light walkers", all kinds of "bivouacs", "bivies", tents, awnings and other "shelters". But these things are for especially sharpened consumers. To want one for oneself, one has to go through a lot and evolve to the corresponding non-traditional needs.

Double benefit

Why a double tent? Because a two-person tent is the most versatile size.

This can be comfortably used alone, but if anything, then she will accept three for the night. And maybe more, it all depends on the nature of this "If What".

In terms of weight and dimensions, when folded, a two-person tent does not significantly burden the owner.

A tent with a larger capacity is usually purchased for some specific task. Let's say a large team is planning a trip to places where there are no problems with installing a large tent. If you need to optimize the weight of the equipment, then the specific and volumetric weight of one "bed" will be less when using a multi-person tent, and not a solo or two-person option. Large tents are also handy when setting up a long-term stationary camp. Well, for regular trips to nature for parents with small children, a large tent is better suited.

Now, with regard to the said double or double layer construction... This tent has double walls. It is like a nesting doll: there is an inner tent and an outer awning, everything is kept on one frame.

The outer awning is made of waterproof fabric. It stops streams of rain and gusts of wind. The inner tent is made of breathable fabric that allows steam and air to pass through. There is a gap between the inner tent and the outer awning. This is an air gap for ventilation: all condensate from human breathing goes outside the inner tent, after which it partially erodes, partially settles on the inner surface of the awning. Fresh air flows in the opposite direction. It turns out that the tent is both dry and not stuffy at the same time.

This design is the de facto modern standard for camping and camping tents. In the latter, several internal tents are often placed under one large awning - thus, "multi-room" camping apartments are obtained.

Note that single-layer tents still exist in nature, and have not died out along with tarpaulin or percale products. Single layer tents are found in the segment of super expensive tents for extreme conditions. They are sewn from ultramodern membrane fabrics. Compact, lightweight, not versatile and very expensive.

There are single-layer tents as cheap solutions: beach houses from the sun, play tents for children or shelters for fishermen, ice fishing lovers. Sometimes the manufacturer (or seller) tries to position them as suitable for tourism. But these tents either get wet or do not breathe at all. More often than not, both plus are torn at the first opportunity. They can sometimes be used, but only as a one-time solution for one warm night in a distant warm country, to be thrown out the next morning.

Shape: who needs a half roll?

Having done with the first global advice - choose a two-person double tent - let's move on to the details. And then you yourself will decide what you need.

In terms of shape, most tents for tourism and mountaineering can be divided (very roughly if) into two types: "Hemispheres" and "Half rolls".

In hemispherical tents, the arches of the frame intersect with each other and form a self-supporting structure. And in semi-roll tents, the arcs are parallel: a series of arches is created. Such a tent can only stand if it is properly stretched between two secure points.

There are many variations within each of these types. There are also hybrid solutions, for example, a half-roll-tambour is attached to a tent in the shape of a dome. Note that in recent years, the production of "half rolls" around the world has noticeably decreased.

The varieties of gable tents, wigwam tents, and lodge tents are as exotic today as shelter bivouacs are especially for connoisseurs.

What are the main advantages of the "half roll"? In it more useful volume, since its walls are more vertical. Its karsas consists of fewer elements (usually two or three arcs). That is, it is lighter and takes up less space when folded. However, as already emphasized, the half-roll tent needs to be properly stretched. This means she needs a roomier and more thoughtful installation process.

A half-roll tent is good if you plan to place it on flat forest edges or in a field. That is, where there are no problems with even and soft ground, into which it is easy to drive the pegs to tie the guy wires. Plus, let the wind be weaker there. Otherwise, you will have to invent something new every time. Pull logs, stones, and already knit braces to them. Then cover these stones with smaller stones so that in the middle of the night a gust of wind does not overturn all your efforts on your head along with the tent. Putting a half roll in deep snow is almost always torture.

Therefore, half-roll tents are good for cyclists and, for example, water workers. In other conditions, tents, which can be conditionally referred to as hemispherical tents, will be clearly preferable. So quite under withIlu can stand on my own, even without guy wires. But you still need to tie them: in the mountains, where the tent can be blown away by the wind.

Here, the supporting frame can already include two, three, and even more arcs. The more there are, and the more often they intersect, forming power triangles, the more significant wind load the tent will be able to withstand.

Winged aluminum in arc

Now that you've figured out a shape, consider such a thing as the wireframe that creates that shape.

First, about the frame materials. In industrial tents, aluminum or fiberglass tubes (usually fiberglass, black or colored) are usually used for its manufacture. There are also steel pipes, but these are in huge camping collapsible houses (and titanium - in handicraft homemade products). There are frames and composite materials based on carbon fiber - in expensive premium models.

As for fiberglass, it is cheap, has no permanent deformation, but is heavy and short-lived. Fragility is associated both with the objective category - poor resistance of fiberglass to excessive bending, and subjective - insufficient quality control of materials and production, since fiberglass is the lot of low-budget solutions (there are exceptions).

The fiberglass tubes are connected to the frame post using metal couplings. These couplings, on the one hand, add weight, and on the other, they are often of frankly poor quality (rolled roofing iron, which "creeps" along the seam under load). The very same fiberglass tube, barely cracked, inexorably continues to crack further and further. And it "pushes" when you try to insert it into the repair sleeve. You can only repair a cracked rack at home using epoxy. It is believed that fiberglass does not hold the load well in the cold, but this is, rather, a consequence of defects in production.

Fiberglass tents can, of course, be used. They are perfect for regular, easy trips to nature: in the same predictable weather and landscape conditions. Another tent "on fiberglass" would be a good, but "one-off" solution for one season. Let's say, for a stationary camp for one summer, when the tent will not be repeatedly disassembled, assembled and transferred to a new place.

Now, in fact, there is little more to say about the aluminum frames. Stronger, more durable, but more expensive.

If we compare it with fiberglass, then the aluminum frame (aluminum grades are similar to aviation ones) is almost twice as light, moreover, it holds sharp bends and shock loads much better. That is, a tent with an aluminum frame is an order of magnitude better withstand gusts of storm wind.

Due to the greater strength, the diameter of the aluminum tubes is smaller, and this is compact.

It is repaired on site with a pair of pads (or an aluminum sleeve tube, which often comes with a repair kit) and electrical tape. At home, a broken segment can be replaced with a new tube, or the fracture site can be “reworked” into another, new “elbow” on the arc.

Among the aluminum frames there are elite brands. It is a product of research laboratories that only design and manufacture frames and then sell them to tent manufacturers. A common place for their products: quality, strength and low weight.

Most of all on hearing are superframes from companies DAC and Easton.

Korean company DAC(Dongah Aluminum Corporated, www.dacpole.com) is the clear leader today: in terms of the prevalence and number of cooperations with well-known tent manufacturers.

The DAC arsenal includes extra strong tubes with variable wall thicknesses, a wide range of diameters, high-tech pressing and special technologies for joining elements. Reinforcing knurls, anodizing and other, other ...

In the last few years, DAC has seriously hit the production of all kinds of aluminum and plastic adapters, tees, connectors, couplings and other accessories, which allows the craziest designers of tents and trekking furniture to play enough. The results are fantastic! The development is called DAC Toys.

Americans from EASTON(http://tentpoletechnologies.com) are trying to keep up. In contrast to competitors, they have intensified research into lightweight composite materials. Super quality and expensive. By the way, Eastorn fiberglass frames are cool.

About rags ...

So what's next. Perhaps we can dwell on fabrics.

With fabrics for a tent, everything is relatively clear. The lighter and stronger, the better, but more expensive, since strength and lightness are antagonists. Rip Stop technology is encouraged (reinforced threads are periodically woven into the fabric; if a break occurs, it has a chance to stop faster - "stumbling" over one of these threads).

The waterproofness of the materials for the awning is achieved both by the weaving of the fabric and by the quality of the waterproof layer applied to it. Plus treatment with water-repellent impregnations. Such processing can be applied not only to the finished fabric, but even to the individual fibers from which it is made.

Water resistance is measured in objective terms - millimeters of water column. There are visual tests when a test tissue is tightly pulled on the bottom of a tall glass tube: water is poured into the tube and monitors when drops begin to ooze through the tissue.

A sufficient indicator of water resistance for an awning tent is 3,000 mm (three meters of water column)... Pay attention to this characteristic, it must be indicated in the product passport.

By the way, almost all reputable world and responsible Russian manufacturers always have higher water resistance indicators for an awning in practice. The point is in the guarantee for a new tent: by the end of the warranty period, the water resistance must not be lower than the declared one. A good manufacturer reinsures himself and puts fabric with initially higher rates.

In addition to the awning, the tent must also have a waterproof bottom: for it, the indicator must be at least 10,000 mm (ten meters of water column)... This is the kind of pressure your elbow or knee will put on the wet ground when you hit the floor.

By the way, the floor of the tent is sometimes made of so-called extruded polyethylene. Cheap and durable waterproof material, heavy and hard to compress. (Supermarkets sell reusable shopping bags made of the same fabric.) This is a budget solution. The bottom made of extruded polyethylene is found, as a rule, in the same tents that are equipped with a fiberglass frame. We wrote above about where and when it is advisable to use such tents. For other options, use will be associated, if not with risk, then at least with inconvenience.

... and gluing seams

An indicator of tens of meters of water resistance of the fabric will be an empty and wet place if the manufacturer does not glue the seams during the production of your tent. Each seam on the outer tent must be properly insulated, as should all seams on the floor of the inner tent. Without this, moisture will ooze into them, and in huge quantities.

Usually gluing is performed thermally using a special transparent tape. This procedure is not handicraft. Available only to the owners of the corresponding expensive equipment.

High-rise and extreme tents made of composite fabrics using silicone-filled fibers do without gluing the seams. The hot-melt film does not stick to such, and therefore the problem of waterproofing the seams is solved here in other non-trivial ways.

Inner tent fabrics also need lightweight and durable fabrics. Its panels can include mesh inserts for better ventilation, interior pockets, and more.

What demis is made ofseasonality of the tent

There is one more parameter according to which tents are divided into two groups: seasonality... Tents are so-called three-season(not suitable for winter use) and all-season(suitable for all situations, including snow camping). In foreign catalogs, respectively, it is indicated as Three seasons and Four seasons (sometimes All Seasons), respectively.

In tri-seasons, the side and top panels of the inner tent are sewn from a fine mesh fabric that provides excellent ventilation, insect protection and lighter weight. In general, these tents are versatile and more suitable for long journeys, because lighter and more compact... However, during a blizzard, this very mesh can be pierced by snow dust, which will surely fly under the outer awning.

All-season tents, that is, "four-season", usually more expensive and more durable: to withstand blizzards and winter winds. The outer awning may or may not have an additional protective skirt, but in any case it is designed longer so that the gap to the ground remains less than that of the “three-season” tent. The frame posts are usually thicker and sturdier than the three-season ones.

REFERENCE (observation from life):

However, this does not mean that it is impossible to survive in winter in a tent with an all-mesh "matinee". Sometimes, you climb inside, and you don't know that the tent that your partner carries with him everywhere is a "three-season". It is surprising, of course, to find in the middle of the night a natural draft that flows from the starboard side to the left side, flows through a neighbor, through your sleeping bag and flows away somewhere into a frosty, snowy night. Well, you will be surprised and you will roll a roller of clothes in front of your nose so that it does not freeze too much.

If you are going to use a tent anytime, anywhere, then the one that is designed for "four seasons" will be preferable. It is convenient when part of the mesh panels of the inner tent are duplicated with flaps made of solid fabric (for example, they are fastened with a “zipper”). Usually the panels of "doors" are made of such composite, layered panels. In cold weather, there will be more comfort in such a tent, although its weight will also be greater when compared with a similar three-season tent.

Emergency entrance, emergency exit and a household vestibule

Tent designs are diverse. By the number of entrances and the presence of vestibules including. The possibility of separate, say, storage of equipment and provisions greatly improves the functionality of a camping dwelling. Here we dry our shoes, and there we pour our morning coffee. The presence of a spacious vestibule makes life much easier, but again increases the weight of the tent. And it requires additional space for its installation. So, take a closer look, try on and choose.

Philosophical who is on top: frame or awning?

This is such a long-standing, specific and never-ending dispute. It concerns one more feature of the modern tent construction: where should the frame arcs be located - on top of the outer tent or under it? Both options are quite common among modern tents.

The main benefit of the external positioning of the frame is that the internal tent can be permanently fastened to the external awning. Therefore, by stretching the outer tent, you automatically "set up" the entire tent as a whole, including the inner tent. And in this case, if you pitch your tent in the rain, its insides will not get wet. You can detach the inner tent from the outer one when you want to clean it or dry it thoroughly.

With a tent with a frame inside, between the inner tent and the awning, this number will not work. First you need to set up the inner tent, and then pull the awning on top. If it is raining or snowing, then all this can be inside the tent. Especially if you hesitate.

However, such calculations are rather theoretical. In practice, you can set up an inner tent, covered with an unstretched awning. Thus, reducing subsequent drying to a minimum.

On the other hand, when the frame is external, you are faced with the unpleasant need to push the arc elements into special, provided by the design, narrow and long pockets. When the turn of the second arc comes, it is very problematic to do it alone - you try to resort to the help of your partner.

In addition, the design of many of these tents is such that, with excessive force, the stand abuts and tears the fabric of such a pocket. Attention, accuracy and sufficient illumination of the scene are required. In the wind and rain, the task becomes even more challenging.

The author of these lines has seen a "dream tent" with an outer frame only in photographs by Reinhold Messner from Everest: there the tent was suspended from the frame with a thin strong cord and many hooks. Alas, these tents today are either piece or handicraft.

But what exactly the tent with an outer frame is losing out is in absolute inability to fold the awning and spend the day / night exclusively inside the inner tent. In the sun or stuffy weather, such a luxurious option is simply irreplaceable.

A tent with an outer frame seems to be advantageous in the conditions of a multi-day hike in an area blown by hurricane winds. If the rack bursts, then it (most likely) will not spread the tent with its wreckage. What would inevitably happen if the frame was located inside, under the outer awning, and thus gave rise to a lot of problems.

Little things - big and important

After examining the tent as a whole, carefully explore and appreciate the little things: fasteners, zippers, seams. The presence and number of eyelets and eyelets for braces. The guy wires themselves, the packing bag and the quality of the pegs.

All these sort of trifles, in fact, are not nonsense, but overwhelming things. If everything goes on in a regular manner, then a tent made of high-quality fabric and high-quality fittings can serve for five, ten, and fifteen years.

But the "lightning" spreading under load is terrible. As well as the "zipper" is not able to fasten under load. Monstrous threads sticking out in all directions and falling into the slider of the fastener. An unsuccessful protective overlay for the "zipper" of the awning, unexpectedly sticking into the lock, takes away the last of your strength when you have already won all the challenges and trials of a good working day and are about to melt snow for the evening soup. And here is such a Trouble!

Detachable eyelets, flying strips, to which the braces are knitted. Hooks bursting in the cold or in the heat for hanging the tent to the frame. Believe me, if they are destined to come off or break, then they will come off and break at the most inopportune moment. When there is neither time nor energy to resist this mini-accident.

Choosing a tent, unpack and install it and get inside. Lie down to your full gigantic height. Is there enough headboard space for personal items? And at the legs - for equipment and ropes?

Examine the cut of the tent... Is the inner tent hanging from the frame? And the awning - does not frown? If there is a hint of this, then in the rain, when the fabric is saturated with moisture and inevitably stretches, the sides of the inner tent and the outer awning will stick together. And then all your warm clothes will get wet overnight. And in the wind, the flapping "sails" will break: first, the braces will fly, and then the main fabric will also burst.

If the tent is well designed, then weather transformations are taken into account in advance. The tent remains beautiful and resilient both in the rain and in the sun.

It would seem quite a trifle - painting the arches of the frame in different colors. But when you shake out this multi-colored "bamboo" on the litter and start building your house, you will appreciate how much faster it goes with the color coding. And on a frosty night, under the light of a flashlight, the color of each arc and the corresponding color markers on the mounting elements of the tent turn from a seemingly trifle into a real de luxe option.

Enjoy your nights!

In many camping tents, the inner sleeping curtain is made from a combination of mosquito net and fabric. Pay attention that the netting does not start too low from the floor, as lying in such a tent, feeling a cool draft on your face, will not be very comfortable. It is desirable that the sides that form the bottom of the tent are located as high as possible, especially if the edge of the awning is not lowered to ground level. Winter tents are often fitted with a windproof skirt. In my opinion, it is more than justified for winter hikes. However, the skirt adds weight to the tent and significantly impairs its ventilation, so it will be very humid inside. Therefore, many manufacturers do not use a skirt, but simply lower the edge of the awning to ground level. The entrance to the inner tent must be doubled with a mosquito net. This tip can be neglected if you intend to use the tent for high-altitude mountain climbing or winter hiking. A mosquito net is not only protection against insects, but also fresh air inside, if it is stuffy and hot outside, and a window to the world that you can admire while lying inside the tent. Pay attention to the presence of ventilation windows. There should be at least 2 of them on different sides of the tent and the higher they are, the better. In lightweight models, you can do without them - good ventilation is provided due to the high edge of the awning and the abundance of mosquito nets on the inner tent. The shape of the awning should be such that water does not accumulate above the entrance outside and when unbuttoned it does not spill onto your sleeping bag or boots. Even special water drains can be found in individual tents. Manufacturers often indicate the waterproofing parameters of the awning and bottom for tents. To be honest, I don't look at them. Of course, you yourself understand that the higher the parameters, the better. But now all materials, even with the lowest values ​​like 3000 mm, are able to withstand prolonged rains. In addition, the waterproofness of the tent is indicated by some manufacturers at the time of the start of operation of the tent, while others - at the end of the expected service life. Additional loops on the tent will allow you to stretch the tent more. This, firstly, will help keep your tent in shape in strong winds, and secondly, the awning will not flap too much. See if the awning is tight on a properly set up tent in the store. It should not sag and touch the inner tent - in such a place the sleeping canopy can get wet from condensation. In addition, a loose canopy can flap violently in the wind and prevent you from resting. I highly recommend paying attention to how the zippers are sewn on. You will be much more comfortable on the hike if you can open the doors with one hand and the zippers will not bite into anything, such as the rain bar. It is desirable that two sliders are used on the zipper of the awning - at the bottom (standard) and at the top. Then it will be possible to make a window - to see the weather and for additional ventilation. Check how well the seams are glued on the tent and, in general, the overall quality of the stitching, accessories, slings. The height of the inner tent should allow you to sit so that your head does not hit the ceiling and you can calmly straighten your shoulders without stooping. The presence of pockets for things in the inner tent, hanging shelves or eyelets also makes life easier when traveling. Especially - during the "days", when you are waiting for suitable weather or relaxing after a hard day on the route.

How to choose the right camping tent? Every tourist, both novice and experienced, was concerned about the choice of a tent for a hike, trekking or climbing. In this article, you will find almost all the selection criteria that you need to pay attention to when buying. By reading this article, you will be armed with a wealth of knowledge about camping tents. We hope that even the connoisseurs will find it interesting!

A passion for hiking is not only a desire to see and learn new wonderful places, to be in nature, outside the cities, but also a certain challenge to the usual way of life. The traveler somehow goes beyond the usual framework of comfort. Cooking in a forest or in the mountains, the vagaries of the weather, physical difficulties in overcoming obstacles force us to re-evaluate the meaning of the very concept of "comfort" in a completely different way. Comfortable hiking shoes, well-fitting, dry, warm and, of course, a reliable tent - these are the main "whales" that support the feeling of comfort during the hike. Today we will talk about tents.

Of course, there are a great many types of tents - trade, military and even huge tents-pavilions. Here we will consider tourist tents. By a tourist tent, we mean a mobile shelter that can protect the traveler from the vicissitudes of the weather - rain, wind, insects and small animals, cold (within certain limits, of course). A tourist tent should have a reliable structure, be simple and easy to install and fold, take up little volume when folded, and when unfolded, provide normal conditions for rest and sleep.

Twenty years ago and earlier, in the post-Soviet tourist space, there was not much choice - the majority used the same type serial structures, bulky and heavy, or they had to make tents on their own. There were few foreign models and products of a few local manufacturers, and they were inaccessible to many. Gradually, the market was filled with a large number of a wide variety of models - for every taste and wallet. It can be difficult to understand this variety not only for a novice tourist, but also for more experienced travelers.

WHERE TO BUY A HIKING TENT?

If this is your first time buying a tent and you are not a seasoned connoisseur of the market, it is best to shop for the first time at a major outfit center. Here you can choose from a variety of models, see, touch and even install / fold the model you like. In such stores, as a rule, real experts in the tourism industry work, so they sell the most suitable, functional models, and do not order everything, like large online stores of “everything in the world”. Here you can really help with advice when choosing. Vendors usually use the equipment themselves, rather than being consultant theorists. The main thing is not to fall completely under the influence of the seller.

HOW TO BUY AT THE EQUIPMENT CENTER?

Remember, there are very few real "pumped level 1000 sales masters" who are able to delve into your specific request and sell what you exactly need. In most cases, even an experienced tourist-climber, who is also a sales consultant, will sell you equipment "for himself." This can lead to the fact that you will fall under the "magical influence of a specialist" and acquire something you do not quite need. To avoid this, go shopping as prepared as possible, draw up the criteria for your choice, even write them down. Save photos of the models you like on the Internet on your smartphone. You know that in a photo on the Internet, everything may not look the same as in reality. When shaping your desires before buying, avoid a large number of advisors, especially those with low qualifications - you risk completely confused. If possible, choose a couple of really smart people whose opinion you trust, describe your task to them as constructively as possible. They will ask you the right questions themselves. After that, go to the store. The chosen tent must be laid out, ask permission to climb inside - lie down on the rug, sit. If you are going to become an avid tourist, remember - this is your future home in a variety of places and conditions, and you must be confident in it.

Now let's take a look at what you absolutely need to know about tents.

The main criteria for choosing a tent:

TENT CONSTRUCTIONS

Nowadays, most tents, even budget series, are made from modern, completely reliable materials. Now almost ALL tents are completely waterproof and have seams glued with a special heat-shrink tape. In many cases, the material has ceased to be the criterion number 1 in the choice. The only exceptions are the cheapest models, the so-called "supermarket tents" - they should be avoided. The first thing you will need to decide on when choosing - what kind of tent design do you need?

Most modern tents stretch on a frame. So, by default, your tent will have a frame. But there are tents without their own frame. They are stretched using trekking poles (it's good that you have them) or improvised means. When should you pay attention to such designs?

FRAME TENTS

You are a minimalist, easy walker and save every gram, you are ready to sacrifice the convenience of a night in favor of weight and compactness. You will rarely need a tent during a hike, or it may not be useful at all, you take it "just in case." Perhaps just an awning or a bivvy bag will suit you. The type of tourist activity inexorably requires from you a lightweight and the most compact backpack - a ski tour, challenging via-ferats, adventure races, etc.

When choosing such a design, it is worth keeping in mind the pros and cons.

Pros of a frameless tent:

• Minimum packing volume and weight.
• Relatively low cost (not always, there are very expensive models).
• The ability to more fully use your equipment (trekking poles, skis).

Cons of frameless tent:

• Often less ease of installation compared to self-supporting structures.
• Usually the worst habitability and wind resistance.
• Now on the market there are frame tents weighing less than a kilogram. They are expensive, but maybe you should take a closer look at them?

Frame structures of tents

Most of the modern frame structures on the market are self-supporting. In other words, these are free-standing tents; in calm weather, they practically do not need stretching. However, in many models, you still need to stretch their individual parts to give the correct shape and maximum internal volume. The use of a free-standing tent is also possible on camping decks, asphalt and concrete sites, soft sand- where it is problematic to fix the stretch marks. Also, stretching structures are very common, the installation of which is possible only with the help of stretch marks.

Frame material

FIBERGLASS, FIBERGLAS

It is used for tents in the lower price range. The worst option is black, matte, opaque fiberglass. If possible, choose a reinforced plastic frame - it is more reliable and durable. The plastic frame is suitable where weight, extreme wind resistance and use at subzero temperatures are not critical. If you do not want to spend a lot of money on equipment, do not go on hikes very often and during the warmer months, this is your choice.

ALUMINUM

The most balanced material for the frame. It should be noted that simpler aluminum grades are used on budget designs than on more expensive ones. They are somewhat heavier and have less strength and elasticity. On more expensive models, more functional grades of aluminum and aluminum alloys are used. Top models can be equipped with scandium and even CARBON frames. Also, some well-known and expensive manufacturers order frames from specialized developers for maximum reliability and giving their products a touch of "elite". The most famous manufacturer of tent frames is DAC. You should know that this famous creator of the most durable frames has both simpler and more expensive lines. Check this point with the seller.

INFLATABLE FRAME

So far, such tents are still so rare that there is no point in writing about them.

EXTERNAL OR INNER FRAME?

INNER FRAME

Most common solution. The frame is located between the inner and outer tents. The inner tent is suspended from it, and the awning is simply pulled from above and attached.

Advantages of a tent with an inner frame:

• The length of the frame is less than with an external arrangement, which means that weight and dimensions are saved.
• Installation is possible only with an inner tent, which is required in good weather.
• With a special kit (usually purchased separately, but sometimes included), you can set up only the outer tent without the inner one with a separate bottom, which can be used as a FOOTPRINT (protective mat) at other times.
• The outer surface of the tent is as smooth and streamlined as possible; snow and debris accumulate on it less.

Minuses tents with inner frame :

• Possibly slightly worse wind resistance.
• In the event of a breakdown, the frame can tear the tarpaulin material.
• When set up in the rain, the inner tent has time to get wet.
• Installation in the wind is less convenient.

HUB FRAME

Recent invention. It is mainly used in models of the "ultralight" segment. The main feature is the presence of "hubs" - connections of the frame, allowing to optimize its overall length, volume, and hence weight. Typically used as an inner frame. The main advantages are low weight with a large internal volume of the tent. The main disadvantages are worse wind resistance and high cost. Often, the hub frame is an all-in-one structure - all the frame elements are interconnected by an elastic cable, forming, as it were, one complex arc. It is convenient to fold such a frame even for a beginner.

EXTERNAL FRAME

Placed on top of the entire structure, arcs are visible. The inner tent is attached to the outer one. There are two main options for attaching the awning to the outer frame. With the help of LAT POCKETS. These are kind of sleeves made of mesh or fabric, where the frame is threaded, after which it is fixed with tips in special eyelets. On the one hand, this is the most wind-resistant structure, which distributes the load as evenly as possible, on the other, it is the most labor-intensive to install. Sometimes the final setting (stretching) of the tips into the eyelets is fraught with such efforts that some girls or teenagers are unable to complete it! So practice before buying. The second option is with hooks or carabiners. Similar to attaching the inner tent to the frame in the models with the inner frame. Such a system has unrivaled convenience and speed of installation! If you've bothered to pre-attach the inner tent to the outer one (or you have a single layer tent), setup will take a matter of seconds. This can be especially appreciated in stormy conditions. At the same time, the carbines do not provide the phenomenal load distribution of the first option. It's up to you to choose.

Advantages of a tent with an outer frame:

1. Possibility to set up an inner tent together with an outer one.
2. Possibility to set up an outer tent without an inner and without a bottom, like an awning.
3. Good wind resistance, easier to put in the wind.
4. In the event of a breakdown of the frame, the awning usually remains intact, it is easier to make repairs.
5. When setting in the rain, the inner tent remains dry.

Minuses outer frame tents:

1. You cannot set up an inner tent without an awning!
2. The frame is relatively longer and heavier than in the first version.
3. Retains snow and debris (leaves, branches, serves as a basis for weaving a web, etc.)
4. Significant installation effort is possible.
5. Usually, such structures are equipped with floor straps connecting the points of attachment of the ends of the arcs. Belts can become tangled and make installation difficult.
6. Installation from scratch, without an attached inner layer, is quite laborious.

CONCLUSION: for most tourists, the option with an internal frame is preferable, which is confirmed by the sales volumes. Tents with an outer frame are more suitable for professional use - in the mountains, cold climates, in bad weather conditions.

ONE OR DOUBLE LAYER TENT?

Most of the tents on sale are of a double layer construction. As a rule, this is an inner tent, equipped with a bath-like (overhanging) waterproof bottom and a lightweight breathable upper, part of which is made of lightweight mesh. In tents for use in warm and hot seasons, almost the entire top can be made of mesh, while for models for colder conditions, the amount of mesh is much less and it can be closed with a denser fabric with a zipper. The outer tent is usually a protective awning made of waterproof, durable fabric with braces attached. It is usually connected to the inner tent through the frame with the help of special fastexes or other fixing devices equipped with a tension mechanism. It allows you to stretch the awning as tight as possible, which is necessary during rain or wind. The double layer tent forms an air gap between the inner and outer tent. This makes staying in it more comfortable in both hot and cold weather and to a greater extent prevents condensation in the living area, which is very important for keeping your belongings dry during the hike.

Single layer tent it is either a very cheap and extremely simplified "supermarket" version, or a specialized design for specific tasks. Almost all single-layer tents, one way or another, have problems with condensation, even when using special breathable fabrics, so their use in most cases is limited to the winter period, mountains and other places with low air temperatures, where condensation is not so critical. Also, single-layer tents are colder in the cold, and hotter in the sun than their double-layer counterparts. Instead, they offer ultimately low weight and volume, ease of installation and folding in extreme weather conditions, minimum dimensions in the installed form, which allows them to be placed on the smallest level area. As you already understood, this option is not for everyone! It is also worth considering the often very high cost of such structures.

TENT SHAPE

Dome tent

Dome designs are the most common. For decades, such tents have faithfully served tourists, climbers, hunters and fishermen. The simplest design of the dome is formed by a frame of two struts crossed in the middle. Such a tent is easy to set up, lightweight. At the same time, it cannot boast of a spacious lobby (one or two). Often, to increase the functionality (internal volume, wind resistance), one or more frame arcs or special frame struts are added to the structure. The more intersections between the frame elements, the stronger the tent.

Half roll tent

The second most common type of tent today. In popularity, it lags behind the dome by orders of magnitude. The appearance of such a tent is clear from the name. The main disadvantage is that the tent is not free-standing (self-supporting), stretching is required. Installation is usually more difficult, especially for beginners. The main advantage is excellent wind resistance (when installed correctly), good internal volume, low weight. Such a tent is rarely chosen by beginners, mostly experienced tourists who can take advantage of the advantages and compensate for the disadvantages.

Tent marquee

A classic, reminiscent of an Indian "tepee", "wigwam" or yurt. Usually installed on the B-pillar, although there are other options. A very common option in North America, we have little demand. Basically, in the post-Soviet space, a similar design is used for winter hiking, as a rule, skiing, since it is convenient for using ski equipment as a frame and installing a stove. Often there are options without a floor.

"HOUSE"

The once uncontested version of Soviet tourists. The construction is usually single layer. Nowadays it is not widespread due to its low habitability, dependence on stretch marks and installation difficulties. A rare guest on store shelves. In a new interpretation - a compact frameless tent, set on trackpoles, a frequent choice of "survivalists", "bushcrafters" and beginners.

NUMBER OF INPUTS. VESTIBULES (TAMBURS), PLACING THINGS IN A TENT

Many are accustomed to the fact that the tent should have one entrance (exit). It's nice when the entrance to the tent allows comfortable use in the rain. Practice shows that two entrances are much better than one. Therefore, if possible, choose a model with two inputs. If you do not intend to often use the tent on narrow sites, it is better to choose a model with side entrances (provided that you have a 2-3 person tent; if the tent is larger, then the entry / exit at the head / legs is a good option). What is the best way to organize storage space? Of course, it is better to keep the little things and some of the clothes close at hand in the tent itself, for which you will find useful pockets in it and especially pleasant "mezzanine" - a shelf under the ceiling. Backpacks, shoes and bulky / dirty things are convenient to keep in the lobbies (vestibules). In theory, the more of them (that is, two are better than one) and the larger their volume (for example, it is good when a separate arc of the frame is "responsible" for the vestibule), the better. In practice, you are constantly balancing between the useful volume of the tent and vestibules and its weight / size / cost. Think about what will be important to you and proceed from this in your choice. Where do you want to shift the emphasis - towards comfort or light weight?

Tent bottom material

Most of the tents have a fabric bottom. The bottom constantly experiences heavy loads - you lie on it, press, press with your elbows and knees. That being said, your tent rarely sits on an ideal surface. Therefore, it is good that the bottom is made of reinforced fabric. The current trend of weight reduction forces many manufacturers to chase more lightness of the product, rather than its strength and resource. In some sense, it is beneficial for the manufacturer that your tent would wear out faster and be replaced with a new one. If you are also chasing weight and buying an ultralight tent, be especially careful when using it. I also advise you to use FUTPRINT (bedding) on ​​suspicious surfaces. The bottom material should not only be very durable, but also have increased water resistance. In the classical European measurement system, the minimum waterproofing value for the bottom of the tent is 5000 mm. But remember that by pressing with your elbow, you create more pressure and the tent may leak. An indicator of 10,000 mm of water column is considered absolutely reliable. At the same time, for an awning, it is enough to have characteristics of 3-5000 mm. American manufacturers report significantly more modest numbers. But, firstly, they are guaranteed lifelong for fabric, and secondly, the system for assessing water resistance overseas is somewhat different from the European one.

On cheap tents, the floor can be made of structured polyethylene, which resembles a supermarket oilcloth bag. There is nothing terrible in such a field with infrequent use. It is heavier and somewhat more cumbersome, but it can be repaired perfectly with mounting tape. This floor is suitable for not too demanding and economical tourists. I happened to live in a tent with a polyethylene floor and a fiberglass frame on Elbrus, at an altitude of 4200 meters, for several nights in fairly fresh weather, and the tent coped with this test perfectly. True, polyethylene can freeze to ice great.

Processing tent material

In nature, especially in the mountains, the tent is exposed not only to mechanical stress, but also to strong solar radiation. To withstand UV light and better moisture protection, most tents have an additional fabric treatment. The best resistance to UV and moisture is the silicone coating. For internal impregnation and impregnation of the bottom, a polyurethane coating of the fabric is often used. Different types of coverage have their own advantages and disadvantages, which we will not dwell on in the review article. Also, it will be useful to have a fire retardant impregnation of the awning and inner tent. This will help avoid damage from sparks or rough handling of fire inside.

FEATURES OF OPERATION

COOKING FOOD IN A TENT

Be very careful and careful! Avoid using burners inside the tent unless absolutely necessary. If this cannot be avoided, cook in the vestibule, making sure that a lot of air enters there and that no part of the burner or utensils comes into contact with the tent material. Avoid cooking in a tent on integrated systems such as a jetboil, reactor and the like - they are extremely dangerous. There are many known accidents associated with this.

WALKING TENT PACKING

You don't have to always fold your tent in a cover. You can separate the parts of the tent and carry them separately from each other. The wet canopy can be placed on the backpack while on the move to dry. When packing your tent without a cover in your backpack, make sure it won't be damaged by sharp objects.

TENT CARE

Modern tents are made of synthetic materials, they are very unpretentious and require a minimum of maintenance. Moreover, they can serve you for a very long time. Nevertheless, the tent should at least be dried after the hike. When folding, avoid stereotypical (habitual) folds - in the same places. Repair the tent as soon as possible after damage occurs, use a suitable repair kit.

SEASONAL USE

This is a very conditional characteristic. Extreme tents are often referred to as “all season” and are often uncomfortable to use during the summer. At the same time, two-three-season tents are often successfully used in winter and in the mountains. However, there are a few things to be understood. So, one of the main characteristics that determines the possibility of use is wind resistance. A tent with a weak frame and large windage is hardly worth taking for difficult weather, it will not be able to withstand increased wind and snow load. If you have a warm sleeping bag, you can use a tent with a lot of mesh inside in cold conditions, but it is important that it has sufficient strength and that the tent reaches as low as possible to the ground. Against the beliefs of some tourists, a snow skirt is not at all a mandatory attribute of "winter" tents, although it can often be of great use in snow and in strong winds. However, many well-known manufacturers sell "winter" tents without snow skirts. Experienced tourists know that a good windbreak can often be a more important factor than a skirt or a very sturdy tent.

You should understand that modern super-technological tents of the ultralight segment may not withstand serious loads and take this into account in your travels. You also need to know that even the most expensive, heavy and durable super extreme tent can be torn and simply destroyed by a hurricane wind.

Travel wisdom, knowledge and developed intuition are often more important than the newest and most expensive equipment. And while waiting for the arrival of all these important qualities and gaining the necessary experience, try to use the equipment strictly for its intended purpose, take into account the positioning of the manufacturer and always use common sense.

Good luck with your choice and pleasant travel!

The article was updated: 2016-02-03

Tourist tents - tents designed for hiking or outdoor recreation with a moderate degree of comfort. Due to their low weight and size, they can be transported in a backpack (bag, hands, etc.). Unlike camping, they have a lower ceiling height, allowing you to be inside only sitting or lying down.

It is always tempting to take a tent with bigger vestibules. As you know, there is never a lot of comfort. But it is still desirable to objectively assess what they will be used for. For example, for storing bicycles or a large amount of equipment in a troubled region in terms of "borrowing" other people's things. Then you understand that an additional 0.5 - 1 kg behind your shoulders is a necessary tribute to the circumstances. In most cases, one or two medium-sized vestibules are sufficient. 70-100 cm... And sometimes you can do even more cunningly - take a light three-person tent for two with practically no vestibules and comfortably place your belongings in an empty place. At the same time, if anything, there will always be a reserve to settle with one more comrade.

Materials (edit)

The materials from which tents are made is a separate huge topic, and we can talk about this for a very long time. So here we will deliberately touch upon only a few of the most fundamental points. The one that is most important from the point of view of the average user choosing a tent.

Tent frames are made from fiberglass(fiberglass,) - much cheaper, or aluminum- more expensive, but also lighter and more reliable. Medium and high-end tents will almost always have high-tech aluminum arches. In cheap ones - mostly fiberglass. In principle, when used in ordinary calm hikes, there is no big sin in fiberglass arcs. You just need to understand that such a tent will be noticeably heavier than its counterpart with aluminum arches, and is focused only on mild operating conditions. The main thing where you should not take fiberglass is mountains, where the material quickly degrades under the influence of hard ultraviolet radiation and begins to break, which causes a lot of trouble. In winter, in freezing temperatures, it is also more prone to breakage.

Fabrics. Tarpaulin as a material for tourist tents has irrevocably sunk into the past. The awning and bottom of modern tents is made of synthetic fabric (polyester or nylon), which is applied polyurethane impregnation (PU)... The more layers of impregnation, the stronger the fabric and the better it holds water. In the name of the material, the letters PU and the value of water resistance in millimeters will be present.

About water resistance values many copies were broken. At one time, among tourists, it was considered almost one of the main criteria for choosing a tent. After all, the higher it is, the more guaranteed you and your things will be dry. 10 000mm and you will not be in danger even under the streams of a tropical downpour. But that's in theory. In practice, however, all manufacturers measure this value in their own way. Someone indicates a figure for a fabric that has just left the factory, someone has a more objective value - the test results after a year of tent operation. In addition, it is of great importance how all this is sewn, whether the pattern is successfully made, whether the seams are processed with high quality, and so on. So it is quite difficult to compare products of different brands by this parameter or to “expose” someone in reality. And the current tent, for any more or less sane manufacturer, is now something out of the ordinary. Like the current umbrella - outright marriage and hack. Only very cheap, low-quality things now sin with this. Often, users mistake the drips of condensation on the inside of the tent for the leakage of the tent, but this is a completely different physical phenomenon.

The only thing that you can really check with a tent that is in doubt is whether its seams are glued. If not, then it is better to refuse it. With prolonged rain, water will gradually seep through such a line. And the older the tent gets, the more the fabric stretches, the more it will flow.

In lightweight tents in recent years, fabric has been actively used not with traditional polyurethane (PU), but with silicone impregnation (Silicone or Si)-. It is a much lighter material. For example, the modification is the same double tent with an awning made of "silicone" it can weigh not 3 kg, but 2.3 kg. In addition, the fabric impregnated with silicone, due to the fact that the threads are not glued together, but can move freely and distribute the load, has a higher tensile strength. But at the same time, it is noticeably more expensive and requires a more complex sewing technology, so it is not used so often. Mainly in UltraLight and extreme series of tents.

In cheap tents, the bottom is often made, on the contrary, not of fabric, but of reinforced polyethylene("Terpaulin", outwardly similar to the material of the shuttle seller's bag). He has a right to exist in simple hikes or outdoor recreation. But it must be borne in mind that such material is much heavier than the fabric and is stiffer, due to which the folded tent turns out to be more voluminous. With frequent assembly and disassembly, especially in the cold, creases can gradually form on the folds, allowing water to pass through.

Types of tourist tents

First of all, it is common tourist tents (they are also sometimes called "trekking", from the English trekking - a hike). Designed for walking, cycling, waterborne or protozoan mountain hikes... They are best suited for ordinary outdoor recreation: picnics, fishing, river trips, etc. The most widespread species - about 80% of the assortment of any store.

Extreme(mountain,) tents. They are made taking into account the harsh conditions of highlands and polar latitudes. First of all, these are lower temperatures and strong winds, which ordinary tents most often simply cannot withstand and break. Accordingly, these are thicker fabrics, a strong frame with an excessive number of arcs and testing models in difficult expeditions. Naturally, such tents, despite the most advanced technologies, are somewhat heavier than conventional ones. For more details see the section on extreme tents.

Seasonality of tents

Quite often, manufacturers indicate the climatic conditions for which one or another of their products was designed. At the same time, in the description you can see the words: "summer", "three-season" (spring-summer-autumn) or "four-season" (winter, extreme). This information can be very useful, but it must be properly understood and interpreted.

The main difference between tents of different seasons is how well their inner space is protected from the wind blowing outside. In summer models, the inner tent is usually made of openwork mesh, which provides good ventilation in hot, stuffy weather. In the three-season and winter models, a thicker fabric is used instead of a mesh, somewhat reducing air circulation and blowing from the outside. In addition, many four-season models are also equipped with storm skirts, rolling which with snow or stones can almost completely eliminate wind blowing.

But it must be remembered that from the point of view of direct thermal insulation, a winter (four-season) tent is not much warmer than a summer one. And this is understandable, since structurally, these are all the same two layers of fabric that separate us from the cold reigning on the street. So, on frosty nights, all the necessary insulation should be provided with a good thick sleeping bag.

Little things

The tent is often supplied with all kinds of auxiliary little things such as pockets on the walls or shelves under the ceiling. Not that this is strictly necessary and necessary, but it is quite convenient in a camping life.

But a repair kit must be included in the kit of any tent. It can lie unnoticed for years in a bag with pegs, but if something happens, it can be used to repair very serious breakdowns, which could otherwise lead to disruption of the trip.

Manufacturers

The selection of tourist tents in our stores is now simply huge. There are already more than a hundred manufacturers whose products are presented on the Russian market. New names are constantly appearing, someone, on the contrary, leaves the stage. Under these conditions, it is, of course, impossible to tell about everyone, and, moreover, to sort everyone out on the shelves. For a reference point, below is a list of brands known for a long time in Russia. But you need to understand that it is far from complete and in addition to those listed, there are many other manufacturers that are also worthy of attention.

First of all, a few indisputable leaders industry. Those who are now leading the way are actively inventing and implementing something new. They produce the most high-tech, lightweight, durable, but, of course, quite expensive things:

About a dozen more manufacturers middle level, quite widespread in our country (the list, I repeat, is far from exhaustive):

Of relatively cheap tents in almost every store sell something of their own. The most popular are:

It should be noted that russian tents against the general background, they look very competitive. In terms of the quality of performance, they are comparable to what Western manufacturers do for the same money. Including, in addition to the traditional trekking and extreme tents for our country, good samples of ultralight equipment are beginning to appear in our country.

How much is the tent

The range of prices for tents is wide enough. For example, a double room can cost both RUR 2,000 and RUR 20,000. And the point is not that some manufacturer is very greedy, but someone almost pays us out of their own pockets. The price of the tent reflects well the quality of the materials and the technical level at which it is made.

The design of an expensive top tent has been developed over the years, experimenting, the right materials are selected, the nuances of assembly, ventilation are thought out, complex technological processes of sewing and sealing are used. The result is a very high quality, lightweight and reliable item. It is not scary to go on a long expedition with her, far from civilization, where you start to break down, and you can seriously get stuck.

At the same time, its Chinese counterpart from Ashan is, as a rule, a copy of some well-known model, but much simplified. Simple zippers, accessories made of cheap, not very reliable plastic, the fabric is not the one that the creator carefully selected during the design, but the one that fits into the tight budget constraints, the cheapest frame. Such a tent can also have a right to exist, especially somewhere in a simple two-day trip to nature. But, of course, one must be prepared for "surprises", and not expect miracles from it, such as low weight and long years of service.

Ultimately, everyone chooses for himself. Based on their goals and budget, which is morally ready to go broke. For reference, the price of an average (that is, not very expensive, but not the cheapest) tourist tent:

	average price of a tent
Relevance - Feb 2016 Nov.
2-seater	7,000 - 12,000 RUB
4-seater	10,000 - 16,000 RUB

1. First of all, decide on type tents. For hiking light trekking models are perfect. A high level of comfort is ensured by spacious camping tents... Mountain conquerors should take a closer look at the storm category.
2. When determining the optimal capacity it is important to take into account the length of time spent in nature. If the hike lasts for several days, then part of the space will be occupied by things and a table. Therefore, it is better to take a tent that can accommodate more than the campers are supposed to.
3. An important selection criterion is seasonality... Summer models are made of the finest materials. Spring-autumn designs are made from denser fabrics. Maximum strength and high thermal insulation properties are winter tents.
4. Pay attention to the parameter like waterproofness... It is expressed in millimeters of water (mm wc). In summer, an awning with an indicator of 1500 mm of water will cope with short-term rain. Art., and for recreation from spring to late autumn, it is better to choose more waterproof tent models (3000-4000 mm). It's also worth asking if your tent has a sealed bottom.
5. Modern tents are equipped with many useful options... It is convenient to use the inner pockets, a comfortable microclimate is provided by the ventilation system, and mosquito nets will help protect guests from annoying insects.