Along the untouched Kurai ridge of Altai. Along the untouched Kuraisky ridge of Altai Emergency exits from the route
- total - 10 days.
- active part - 8 days.
Location
Route idea
The last few years, as a rule, autumn sporadic events took place in the well-groomed areas of Altai, which is caused by severe time and financial constraints. In preparation for the summer 5ke, Anton Shcherbakov organized a trip to the Kuraisky ridge, in which I was a participant. The Kuraisky Range is a low-climbed area of Altai, located in the north of the village of Kurai and, accordingly, the Kurai Valley. On the other side of the valley is the Severo-Chuisky ridge, in which the well-known mountain and a / l Aktru are located. Despite the very high popularity of Aktru, the Kurai ridge turns out to be completely untouched. A small number of known passes and almost complete absence of any description of them. I liked the area for its accessibility, low maintenance and compactness. This gave rise to the idea of bringing the autumn unit to these places. One of the goals was to get as many photographs as possible to organize the further development of the area. And, probably, the most important goal is to reduce the trip so that people have an interest not only in terms of the trip, as an event, but also a little in the research plan.
The thread of the route
“In preparation for the trip, I read many reports and descriptions of the passes. But surprisingly, not one of them contains a word about the fact that this area is old, badly destroyed mountains. What is special about this area is the kurumnik. When describing the passes, there is no word about the nature of the slopes. And this is all the same kurumnik. But for some reason no one drew attention to this. There was as much kurumnik in this hike as there was not in all my mountain experience combined. And the low speed of movement is largely due to the difficulty of moving around the barrow, especially on the snow-covered barrow. "
Photos
"... And they went as the sun of the palima ..."
The trees from which the ribbons hang are "shaman trees" (or "wish trees"). It is believed that spirits live on them. The ribbons are called dyalama, jalama or hadag, are the most common and simple sacrifice to the spirits of earth and water, a symbol of good intentions.
Top view of the Kubadru river valley
View of the night Aktru
Remains of the hunter's hut
Evening tales around the campfire
The bridge over the Kurkurek stream
Crossing thin ice
Valley of the Pravaya Kubadru River
Valley of the Pravaya Kubadru River
Stars above Icy Lake
Pass Tajilu 3150, view from the north.
Video
You can also look at on Vimeo
.
Director of photography, cameraman - Dmitry Mitchenko,
Editing director, sound engineer, music editor - Evgeny Kozlov.
"Let's drink to those who filmed"
Short report
"Here on an uncharted path,
Intricate plots await. "
Brief description of the hiking area
Kuraisky ridge, a low-climbed region of Altai, located north of the village Kurai and, accordingly, the Kurai steppe. The ridge stretches for 30 km from the south-east to the north-west. Highest point Kuraisky ridge, the top of the Upper Ortolyk (1B-2A, 3446), is often visited on weekend hikes, due to its availability. Arriving at the Kuraisky ridge is no problem: from the village of Kurai you can take a UAZ car or walk. On the other side of the steppe is the Severo-Chuisky ridge, on which the notorious peak and the Aktru mountain range are located. Despite the very high popularity of Aktru, the Kurai ridge turns out to be rarely visited. The small number of known passes and poor description of them arouse interest in this area. Accessibility provides an additional degree of safety along the route and allows the area to be rated as well suited for short training hikes. The dominance of the ridge over the Kuraiskaya steppe and the opening views of the Severo-Chuisky ridge make it possible to arouse the interest and further desire of the participants in the hikes to participate in mountain sports events.
Description of the passes, hike diary
All "left" and "right", unless otherwise noted, are considered orographically. Everywhere in the pictures, where it is not indicated otherwise, the red dotted line corresponds to the traversed path, pink to the assumed one. The time is indicated everywhere in Novosibirsk in winter, which differs from Moscow by +3 hours. Daylight hours at this time of the year: from 7.00 to 16.00. The average duration of one trip is 35 minutes. The wake-up call was usually at 4.30 in the morning, the group left at 7.10. Lunch, as a rule, we started from 12.00 to 13.00, its duration was about 1.5 hours.
The departure of the group was scheduled for 21.00, but at about 16 o'clock the head of another group of our section called me, which was going on a route, approximately in the same direction. She said that the owner of the cars that were supposed to drop their group and ours provided us with a car that was not suitable for a long-term drop-off; this meant that it was necessary to look for new transport. The leader of the second group helped to find a new car. The search for the car took 1.5 hours. Check out took place at 22:20.
In the village of Kurai we arrived at about 10 o'clock and started the route at 11 (Fig. 4, 5). The weather was sunny, in 2 trips along a dirt road we reached the gorge of the Kuraika River (Fig. 6). After another 2 trips, there was lunch. The group was in excellent condition. There was no snow cover during the first half of the running day. In the evening we approached the area where the snow lay. The amount of snow did not cause problems with movement (Fig. 7). We got up for the night when it was getting dark, near the crossing over the Kuraika river. They lit a fire.
The wake-up call was at 4:30. We left the camp at 7:10. On the very first run, Sveta began to lag behind. As it turned out, a pinched nerve or overexertion of the leg muscles prevented her from taking wide strides. They unloaded them, gave them trekking sticks, and during the day my condition improved. The path went along the right side of the valley (Fig. 8), along the proposed path indicated on the map in Fig. 1. The snow cover increased, went along the hills, above the lakes Fig. 9. This made it possible to walk without the use of snowshoes. At about 13:00, at the turn to the river. Right Kubadru got up for lunch, lunch took 1.5 hours. We went further towards the lakes, in the direction of the Pamyati Bima pass, fig. 10. The amount of snow increased, at some point I had to walk on a snow-covered barrow, put on snowshoes. Several pictures of the neighboring gorge were made near the lakes, Fig. 11, Fig. 12, where, presumably, there may be a pass 1A-1B of a category of complexity, allowing you to cross the main ridge. We got up for the night at about 5 pm, not having reached the first stop before the take-off pass.
The rise was at the usual time. During the first trip, stretching out strongly, we approached the pass (Fig. 13). The pass was a rocky talus slope slightly covered with snow Fig. 14. We began to climb the pass at about 8 am, at first we walked in two groups, gradually stretching out. There was no rock fall, but we walked in helmets. Problems with her legs did not allow Sveta to go quickly, and it was decided to take her backpack and take her upstairs with a shuttle. The first participant was at the pass for about 10 hours, Fig. 15. They removed a note from our section (SGT NSU), left in May this year. At about 12, they began to move down. We tried to go in twos, in a combination of experienced / inexperienced. However, on the descent, on the barrow, Sasha Shakirova stumbled and fell, said that she had hit her head. I was wearing a helmet, no visible or tangible injuries were found, later I felt well. The speed of the group slowed down even more, and only by 15 o'clock did the last participants descend to a level place, where they had dinner, Fig. 16. At about 16:30, having made 2 more trips, we went down to the lake and set up a camp. There was a time reserve of 1 day for a radial exit, but due to the low speed of movement of the group on rock-talus slopes, it was decided to abandon the radial exits to the upper reaches of the Ortolyk Upper and Polezny lane. It was decided to lay the rest of the day for a detour along the valleys of the Prav and Lev Kubadru rivers on the assumption that the exit to it could take a considerable time. Also in 1 day, according to the weather forecast, the weather should have started to deteriorate and snowfall.
It was decided to go along the lakes in order to bypass the kurumnik and thereby increase the speed of movement of the group and reduce the risk of injury (Fig. 17). The thickness of the ice on the lakes was at least 30-40 cm. Assuming the presence of a hole, we walked keeping a distance, having previously arranged the available ropes “in close access”. No decrease in ice thickness was observed as we moved across the lakes. An ascent to the Polezhniy pass was seen, Fig. 18. After 3 trips we reached the slope of the Prav.Kubadru river valley, where we met another group that came from the valley into which we were heading, fig. 19, fig. 20. We were informed that there is a lot of snow in that valley and we will need snowshoes, as well as that we will have 5 fords of rivers. Roughly described the places where the rivers cross. On this day, we reached the confluence of the rivers of rights. and a lion. Kubadra, passing a total of 3 fords, Fig. 21 (twice through the right Kubadra and through the left Kubadra). On the last two fords, a rope was used, crossing over ice bridges. We got up for the night at about 16 o'clock. In the morning, the ascent was scheduled for 5. They burned a fire, warmed up, and rested. During the trip that day, the Tajilu pass was seen fig. 22.
We left an hour later than usual, at 8 am. The weather was cloudy. We walked along the path, fords passed over the icy bridges. The first ford was passed with a safety rope fig. 23, on the second no safety was required. After the second ford, we put on snowshoes. In the evening we approached the beginning of the ascent to the lake 2535. To the right of the river channel along the ridge we climbed under the lake. We got up for the night a little later than 5 pm, on a good level ground, a little below the lake.
During the walk we reached the lake. On the frozen ice we walked to the entrance to the circus of the Tajilu pass. The location of the lake in a lowland, in a rocky circus, made it possible to be confident in the thickness of the ice. We walked along the lake, fig. 24. The ascent from the lake to the exit to the circus of the pass was steep, passed through a hard layer of snow, it was necessary to cut steps in the snow, first with snowshoes, then without them Fig. 25. The further way to the pass passed along a kurumnik covered with a layer of fresh snow. At about 12:30 we came to the pass. One of the participants said that he was not well, he might get sick the next day and that it would be desirable to pass the pass today. On the previous trip, there was a hearty snack, so it was decided to dine at the pass. The pass was covered with snow and there were fears about an avalanche hazard on the rise, described in the reports of Markov and Luchko, Fig. 26. It was decided to walk along the rocks to the left, this would greatly increase the ascent height, as it would have to climb to the height of the summit 3284, but would make the path safer Fig. 27. We walked in bundles. After 70 meters of ascent, the thickness of the snow greatly decreased and it became obvious that you could reach the pass without entering the summit. We went to the pass at about 15 o'clock, took a note t / k / Equator, fig. 28. We continued along the left slope, where the path is marked on the map. We came under a sharp rock-talus slope, going down, reconnaissance of the slope from the lateral gendarme showed that the slope reaches the bottom without rock faults, Fig. 29. By this time it was about 4 pm and it was not possible to complete the descent in the daytime, moreover, the group was tired. It was decided to spend the night at the pass, despite the poor health of one of the participants, and at the same time make a radial ascent to the summit the next day, provided the group is in an acceptable state. Beeline cellular communication works at the pass, and also offers views of the Severo-Chuisky, Katunsky ridges, Belukha is visible, Fig. 30.
The rise was at 5:30. Because everyone was feeling good, it was decided to go to the top. Let's go to the top: Selyutin, Mitchenko, Romanova, Komarovskikh. The ascent took place on small stones and was not difficult. After 40 minutes, the group reached summit 3284, Fig. 31. The ridge is wide enough, with inflations, but without cornices; it was decided to take a walk on it, fig. 32. Descent is possible to the other side of the spur. After 30 minutes, we began to descend to the camp. We reached the camp in 20 minutes. From the top there was a view of the Polezny pass (Fig. 33). At 9.00 we began to descend from the pass, walked in a dense group because of the possible rockfall hazard. By 10 we went out onto a flat area, Fig. 34. Inspection of the slope showed that there is a simpler descent path, which is not obvious from the pass and goes along the line of the water fall, between the rocks Fig. 35. Further descent into the valley took place along a snow-covered barrow in snowshoes, along the left slope. We got up for the night at 5 pm. It was estimated that it was less than 4 hours to go to the village of Kurai along the road. The next day it was supposed to have a half-day.
The rise was late, got up at 9 am. After breakfast, we walked around the neighborhood. After lunch, at 15 o'clock we went to the village of Kurai fig. 36. In the village of Kurai we were at about 18:30, at the same time a driver with a bus arrived and at 7 in the evening we left for Novosibirsk.
At 5:00 in the morning we arrived in Novosibirsk.
Our group has passed a sports and tourist route of the 1st category of difficulty in the region of the Kuraisky ridge. The area is not very well-traveled, notable for its accessibility. Two through passes 1A and one radial exit were passed. The low speed of movement did not allow passing the intended radial exits, but the main route was completed. The group gained experience of moving on the relief of mountainous terrain and staying in conditions of low temperature. I would like to note the small number of known passes in the area, while its compactness and accessibility, which makes it attractive for further exploration. The supposed Polezhniy pass is recommended to be classified as 1B, with the defining side in the valley of the Levyi Kubadru river, the slope of the other side is not defining. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of the path for the passage of the Tajilu pass from the side of the Kurai steppe.
The original report with uncut photos on the author's website
http://limatroads.blogspot.com/2011/08/2011_28.html#more
This day turned out to be just a gift! A gift in every way. First, the sun was shining brightly in the morning. Secondly, small white clouds were crawling across the sky. These two factors are already a landscape photographer's dream! Thirdly, it was warm - something about 26 degrees. And fourthly ... As I already wrote in the post "Altai 2011. Kuraiskaya Steppe", on the previous day a huge gray cloud got stuck over the North-Chuky ridge. So, to our delight, at night this cloud decorated the ridge with a blanket of snow. The SCHH shone with fresh colors and pristine purity. Well, in fact, you will see everything for yourself soon!
Our path lay to the nameless alpine lake, hidden among the numerous rocky and lifeless peaks of the Kurai Range. As Igor, the organizer of this route, said, the lake is called "Lake of Mountain Spirits". He also referred to the story of Ivan Efremov and Choros-Gurkin and the mercury mine near the lake. Well, what can you imagine to lure tourists! I did not begin to dispel his legend, one "Lake of mountain spirits" more, one less. After all, there are already quite a few of them in Russia. On the map, this lake has no name, just an unnamed lake. But it is so picturesque !!!
Our companions today (and tomorrow too) are the same as we are lovers of autotravels from Novosibirsk, Alexander and Natasha and their four-legged friend with a strange name Hryunya. The organizer of the route, as well as part-time guide and driver of the UAZ, on which we moved to the lake, was the aforementioned Igor. You could, of course, try to get to the lake yourself, but this is only if you know the way. Naturally, we didn’t know the road, so we trusted Igor, a native Aktash resident, who had worked for many years at the Aktash mine and naturally knew the surrounding mountains well.
The way to the lake, or rather the automobile part of it, lay through the currently idle Aktash mercury mine. The road to the mine, I must say, is getting much worse every year. After the development was closed, there was no one to follow her. The spring streams washed deep ditches and huge boulders appeared on the surface. I would not recommend going there in a car, although at the mine we saw an old Volga. We passed the bridge over the Yarlyamry stream, along which the road runs, and almost in front of the waste heaps left from the mercury mining we turned to the left up the hill. After a kilometer, we made the first stop overlooking the Aigulak ridge, cooled the UAZ engine a little, had a smoke and drove on. After another kilometer at one of the forks we turned to the right. And soon, after one of the many rises, we saw the MFR in all its glory. How has he changed over the past night !!! The morning sun clearly cast shadows on the slopes of the ridge. Freshly fallen snow added contrast. The blue sky and fresh greenery of the nearby slopes only intensified the effect.
Severo-Chuisky ridge from the side of the Aktash mine.
The height of the shooting location is 2370 meters. The mine is in front, 200 meters below us.
Panorama of the Severo-Chuisky ridge
The mine, or rather the main buildings, were now out of sight. They disappeared below, behind the gentle slope of the mountain on which we were. From the opposite side, behind our backs, a view of the top crowned with a RRL mast at an altitude of 3000 meters opened up. A road with a small serpentine leads to the RRL on the side of the mountain. They say that climbing this serpentine adds to the blood of adrenaline just as much as driving along Katu-Yaryk.
RRL mast at an altitude of 3000 meters. If you look closely, you can see the road leading to the mast on the right side of the mountainside.
We admired a little more midrange frequency response, then it should have been even more interesting. We went down from the pass again down to the Yarlyamry river and crawled up along it along the right bank. A small stream flows into Yarlyamry, we ferried across it. A little more uphill and the road was cut off. Then the walking part of the route began. By the way, I want to say that the route is like a horseshoe - we were not supposed to return to the starting point. We must pay tribute to Igor, the circular route is much more interesting. And besides, Igor cheated a little, having prepared a couple of pleasant bonuses for us, which he did not mention right away.
We crawled to the first ascent, it was hard to get used to. We caught our breath a little on the edge of the scree from which the beautiful view to the Yarlyamry valley.
View from the scree in front of the kurumnik. Below the thin ribbon of Yarlyamry is twisted
Here the trail ended, further it was necessary to pass over a huge barrow. Looking ahead, I will say that for most of us this part of the route turned out to be the most difficult, there were further ups and downs, but now along a soft grassy slope, along which it is much more pleasant to walk than to climb over rocks. After all, I really want to look around, and on the barrow without the risk of breaking my leg it was not possible to raise my head even for a second. Four-legged friend with cool name Piggy had to be dragged on his hands, his short legs were not at all adapted for movement over rough terrain.
A trail theoretically runs somewhere here.
Remains of the "ancient lizard"
On the way, we stumbled upon the remains of an ancient lizard,))), bleached by the sun and scattered over the stones. By the way, it was not in vain that I remembered about the ancient lizard. The unnaturally brightly painted rocks around, the Yarlyamry ribbon winding down the green valley below, the snow-white peaks of a distant ridge in the distance and the complete absence of any traces of human activity within sight reminded us of frames from the cartoon "Earth before the beginning of time" (we watched with our daughter when she was small ). The landscape was too unreal for our urban consciousness.
On the descent from the kurumnik
On the left is a stone slope, on the right is luscious greenery - the contrasts of the Kurai ridge.
We went down from the kurumnnik to the Yarlyamry river, the border between the stone and the lush greenery. The water in the stream is crystal clear. Refreshed a little. Despite the sunny day, a rather cool breeze was blowing here at the height and I didn't want to take off my windbreakers.
By the brook
Clean, cool water of Yarlyamry
Smoke break
Then there was a long climb along a slope covered with dwarf birch, dense grass and a thick layer of moss. The height began to increase. Approximately 2500 meters, my daughter had a headache, or rather, dizziness appeared. All the same, it is the first time at such a height, adaptation has begun. I had to stop often.
Approximately there, to the ridge between two rocks, we walked.
Tired! Height adaptation.
Kurumnik, through which we passed from above, seemed to be a heap of rubble
And here it finally seemed! Lake! First, a little edge, then more and more ... Strength immediately increased, either from the fact that we finally reached, or from the view of the lake ... Its color! And who said it was Lake of the Dead Spirits. Personally, I would call this lake Emerald. Well, maybe someone will not agree!
Come on!
Moreover, what is the Lake of the Dead Spirits, when such beautiful LIVING flowers grow on its shores. I really don't understand them, but it's still beautiful!
Yellow poppies in August.
These are so cute, and even on a red background
Another bunch!
It's easier for me to convey the beauty of the lake with photographs than with words, so just take a look.
Paints!
If you move further ...
And so, if you bend very low to the water.
Just for memory ...
... and for the soul)))
The lake is located in a small depression between colored stone peaks and there is practically no wind around it, there are only slight ripples on the water. By the way, the water is relatively warm, despite the fact that the lake is located at an altitude of 2652 meters above sea level. It exists, most likely due to the melting of snow accumulating in winter - no streams that do not flow into the lake are seen and the water level in spring should be slightly higher than at the end of summer. You can't see any living creatures in the lake - in winter, given the shallow depth, it freezes completely.
You could sit on the shore and admire the views endlessly, but you had to move on the way back. And here Igor presented us with the first surprise. At the beginning of the campaign, he swore an oath that immediately after the lake there would be a descent down to the Yarlyamry valley. Now he was "glad" that he would have to climb one more height on the way back. I had to go.))) The conductor knows better! We climbed the next climb.
Higher and higher!
Somewhere at an altitude of 2715 meters, we found ourselves on a small pass, or on the ridge of a mountain, from which a new view opened up. In front of us, far below, lay the entire Kuraiskaya steppe, the Severo-Chuisky ridge, we could even see the Chikhachev ridge in the distance, also covered with freshly fallen snow. The MFR did not seem so high now as you see it from the steppe. They say that on other days, when the air is especially transparent, you can see Belukha from here. I really have a hard time believing it! But in order to check, it is advisable to have at least binoculars with you, or a compass for determining the azimuth to Belukha.
Emerald lake from the pass
MFC has become "slightly lower"
We went a little further along the ridge. Height according to the navigator is 2733 meters. There was no where to go higher - it was dangerous, there was no further vegetation and the slopes were steep rocky taluses.
Panorama from a height of 2733 meters
Below is the Kuraiskaya steppe. It is good how from the plane you can see the village of Kurai and Kyzyl-Tash.
On high!
View of the RRL mast, which is now slightly higher than us.
Kurumnik now seems like a heap of sand)))
The descent back lay to the right of the kurumnik (photo above). Well, there was another bonus from Igor waiting for us. If you take a closer look at the photo, you can see a scallop below the barn. A small waterfall is hidden there, all on the same river Yarlyamry, already known to us. You can see it only when you come close to twenty or thirty meters.
Descending was of course much easier.))) The legs themselves carried forward. True, there was no trail here, as well as on the rest of the route. The gorgeous "Mesozoic" landscape from "Earth before the beginning of time" has opened again, now from the opposite slope.
On the descent
Valley of Yarlyamry. Land before the beginning of time.
Alpine poppy
Somewhere there is the source of Yarlyamra. The dark blue sky in the photo is the result of the work of the polarizing filter. Interesting effects are sometimes obtained.
Sprinkle under the curd. To the right of the talus, a waterfall is hidden among the brown rocks.
To see the waterfall, one had to first go down to the river, and then walk two hundred meters along it up under the rocks. I had to climb over sharp stones, risking cutting my shoes and hands on them. The tired part of the group went to the camp, but I still could not resist and after ten minutes I saw a waterfall!
Waterfall on Yarlyamry
The waterfall is really not great, only seven to ten meters at first sight, but quite picturesque among the rocks surrounding it. The photo does not convey the scale. After taking a few pictures, I ran to catch up with the others, who had gone far ahead along the green valley. Igor, who had left us a little earlier, had already managed to boil the water and soon we were drinking tea from the leaves of the insanely smelling mountain currant collected along the road on the bank of the stream flowing into Yarlyamry.
Then there was an hour descent to the base and that was the end of our journey to the lake. The next day, the Beltyr, the ships of the desert, and the epicenter of the 2003 earthquake were scheduled.
REPORT (in free form)
O hiking route of the first category of complexity Mountain Altai completed in the period from 27.07 to 12.08.2012
Tourism type: hiking
Length of the active part: 115.7 km
Duration: 15 days
Brief description of the hiking area
Kuraisky Range is a mountain range in the east of Altai, located between Bashkaus and Chuya. The ridge is about 140 km long, with an average width of 15 km. The highest point of the ridge is 3446 m. For the Kuraisky ridge, most of it is treeless. It is composed of metamorphic rocks; continental loose sediments (“loose”) come to the surface. The foot of the ridge is located at an altitude of 1700m. There are many lakes, glaciation is absent with few and few exceptions.
The climate is sharply continental, intensifying towards the southeast. Little precipitation. Winter is frosty, down to -55C. Above 2000 m in summer, night frosts and snow are possible (we had both).
In terms of tourism, the area is poorly explored. The reason is in the neighboring North-Chuya ridge and shallow slopes. Nevertheless, in our opinion, the area is well suited for beginner groups.
The transport characteristics of the area are simple - along the southwestern slopes there is a Chuisky tract (asphalt), in the west there is a highway to Ulagan (dirt road).
Route thread:
The upper reaches of the r. Chibitka - r. Kyskhyshtubek - lane. Lateral - p. Karaozek - r. left Kubadru - p. right Kubadru - r. Teranjik - r. lower Ildugem - lane. Entropic - p. Raw Tydtugem - r. Karasubazhi - r. Kuraika - lane. Spacious - p. right Kubadru - r. Kuraika
Map (clickable):
General semantic idea of the campaign
Visit deserted places of Altai
Walk through the treeless and steppe expanses
Arrival and departure options
For 2014, regular transport (Gazelle) runs only from Gorno-Altaysk, to Kosh-Agach (2 flights) and Ulagan (1 trip). It is better to book seats (if you are a couple of people) in advance by calling the drivers. There is transport to Ongudai and Ini, but it is better not to use it, as it is difficult to find further transport. Hitchhiking is very tight (I twice caught a ride in Ongudai, in 2012 and 2014, both times unsuccessfully).
Emergency exits from the route
The Chuisky tract is laid along the ridge. A fairly quick emergency exit is possible from almost anywhere. From the western regions it is possible to jump onto the highway to Ulagan, it is crowded.
Description
Note. The first part of the route I walked alone, then three friends arrived at a predetermined time and place and continued together.
Transfer
I arrived in Barnaul in the morning. Like two years ago, on public transport there is only one option - by bus to Ongudai, and then catch a ride. You can probably hire a private trader on the spot, but only for a medium-sized group. I also considered the option through Gorno-Altaysk, but dismissed it, as I was afraid of not finding further transport, and next to Ongudai mountains and you can spend the night.
The bus to Ongudai takes about 5 hours, at 15 I am at the place. Three hours of attempts to catch a ride were unsuccessful. Towards evening, a local thunderstorm passed 10 km to the north, then a second appeared from behind the ridge and I ran a little to the mountains, put up a tent and spent the night. A squally wind during a thunderstorm with gusts up to 20 m / s - the tent had to be fixed.
In the morning I tried to catch a ride, but in the end I went to the center and waited for a minibus (gazelle) to Kosh-Agach or Ulagan. Interesting circumstances emerged - firstly, they are often packed and do not come to Ongudai at all, and secondly, seats must be booked by phone in advance, because it will not accommodate everyone in Ongudai. In my case, 5 out of 6 fit and I was sitting on a mini-bench in the aisle, which the driver carries specially for this purpose. Although the way back to civilization was planned with friends on the ordered transport, just in case I remembered the driver's number indicated in the cabin - I prefer to be reinsured. The minibus went to Ulagan, which determined my point of arrival in the massif - the Ulagan plateau (the second option was near the village of Kurai, but I did not see a fundamental difference).
On the highway to Ulagan there is a sign: "The tourist base is a nameless lake, there are places." The track departs to the base, which is visible on GoogleEarth. There I went out. He moved away from the road, changed into a running gear. Clouds walk around, pouring here and there. A cloud with a charge of rain was visually identifiable and had clear boundaries, about 5 km across. As it turned out, it was like this for the next 16 days, which was simply delightful - you could always determine whether the rain would hurt you and prepare in advance for it - put up a tent. I had no goal of breaking records and walking in the rain and the tactics paid off, IMHO.
View from the track to the spurs. In the distance to the left is already the right bank of the river. Kyskhyshtubek
They drive along the track to the base; Niva, a jeep, met an Altaian rider from the base - everyone was friendly. I thought about turning off the road further south, onto the spurs, but changed my mind in order to spend more time on more mountainous regions. First there is a forest, then there are pleasant meadows and woodlands around. In this way I reached the base and turned into the valley after (to the east) of the lake. The lowland by the lake is swampy. When approaching the GZL (the border of the forest zone), a good horse trail was discovered (it goes from the base, as I understand it). I walked over it a little and it started to rain. I did not strain and camped, fortunately there was a puddle (10 meters in diameter) with normal water nearby. The forest is cool - either cedar or cedar pine. There is a lot of firewood.
Despite yesterday's rain, the fire started from a sheet of newspaper A3. I slowly cooked breakfast by boiling water well. The water has an unpleasant aftertaste, attributed to the standing of the water. The trail goes along the GZL to a waterfall on one of the left tributaries of the Kyskhyshtubek, met an Altai and his two clients on horseback - they walked from the base to the waterfall.
The trail along the GZL up the river. Kyskhyshtubek
I will be ahead of the events and say that these were the last people I met in 15 days of the route part, not counting my friends who joined on the 8th day. The area is deserted. I'm in a three week winter hike on the polar urals and then met people more often =)
From the path opens good view to the right bank of the Kyskhyshtubek and kept thinking about what kind of pass to get to the Kubadru valley. The area is not used and there are no descriptions at all. All I have - detailed map scale 1: 25'000 and Google Earth images.
View of the right bank of the river. Kyskhyshtubek. In the center, slightly to the left, there is a small bare plateau, then over the slope to the left.
There are many options and I choose the most technically simple, with the smallest set, but longer and with further forests - to the river. Karaozek and a lake with a mark of 2459 in its valley. The right slope of Kyskhyshtubek is mostly covered with forest, at the same time I am looking for the most optimal passage. I did not reach the waterfall along my bank, but began to descend earlier, through burnt cedar and knee-deep bushes - nothing particularly unpleasant, but the pleasure is below average. Frightened away the maral 20 meters away from him - gracefully jumped down. Having descended, barefoot crossed a simple ford and began to climb to another slope of the valley. The weather is excellent, warm and sunny. The wind is refreshing.
When I was below, I saw a waterfall and a convenient descent after it - it was better to go down there. Now I have a slight rise, about 200 meters vertically. First I walked along the talus (I prefer talus to grass), then the forest began and then went to a small plateau before the next takeoff. Grass, bushes, and occasionally trees. Stirred a stick for GoPro. I love space!
View of the upper reaches of the Kyskhyshtubek from a small plateau
View of the opposite slope, along which I walked earlier (from right to left). You can see the white thread of the waterfall, to the left of which it is better to go down.
Through the plateau I approached the next takeoff with a good waterfall (10 meters). I will not say that the take-off is difficult, but not easy: 40 degrees, a large talus. The debris is dead and can be easily overcome. I go out to the pre-pass valley, there are almost no bushes, only grass. I walk slowly under the takeoffs.
Valley before the last takeoffs
An interesting valley - there is no one and will not be, small, gently sloping. A sort of nook. Nice grass underfoot - no stones or bushes. Directly on the course, the summit, to the left and to the right, there are pass ups, but a continuous small talus. Slopes of 40 degrees. I do not know the technique of overcoming such small talus, if there is such a thing at all. On the left (in the direction of travel) a descending stream is visible - I don’t want to go! However, it leads too high, to one of the peaks. Middle of the day, thinking what to do. On the one hand, the second day and you can not get up and camp, on the other - a set of 150 meters, not so much, but a lot of time and the weather seems to allow.
I choose the second option, because I don’t want to mess around for half a day, and the valley is not very welcoming - it’s high, everything is open to the winds, there is no firewood and it’s cool. The straight bed of the side stream leads to the top - this is an extra 80 meters, although at the end of the stream you can see a branch to the right, to the saddle I need, but still high. As a result, I decide to look on the spot, but immediately add the option of leaving the stream to the right, onto the saddle, traverse. The first half of the climb passes quickly, in about 30 minutes.
In the middle of the rise. It can be seen that everything is talus.
The second half of the ascent is more difficult - an altitude of 3 km on the second day is not a masterpiece. As a result, at 2900 I go to the right hollow of the stream. The ascent is hard, gray clouds drive up behind me, I go traverse to the saddle. First, I traverse the large slabs, then small talus, and in the end I find myself somewhere between the top and the saddle at 2950.
On the lane. Side
As you can see, I turned out to be higher than the saddle, but otherwise it did not work out - closer to the saddle of the loose. At the bottom of the river. Karaozek, at the very bottom you can see the greening right slope of Kubadru.
The view back from where I came up.
From the saddle the descent is steep, from the top it is lower. The pass is not particularly difficult - 1A. I go down to two lakes at 2500, below the lake is visible at 2319. Nice view, incl. on the rock to the east of it. I feel that I am knocked out and severe weakness sets in. I can’t drink and don’t want to eat either. It’s very strange, because I’m already at 2500. I quickly set up my tent, I vomit. I didn’t understand why, but I really didn’t like the water that day and I was disgusted with it, although the streams were all sterile. I really hoped for streams from the snowfields at 2800, but I still felt this aftertaste. Maybe the water dissolved some non-biological impurity, or maybe the events are not connected and this is something food - I have not figured it out.
I think what to do next, because I won't last long without food and water - I have a terrible dislike for the local water, and weakness says that I can't go back to the pass. Interestingly, I am in Altai for the second time and the previous time there were similar events. Nowhere else and never has this been shown.
In the morning I brew tea on the burner - otherwise I just can't get the hated water into myself. The weakness is generally gone. I get ready and leave at 6.30 Moscow time.
Lake on the river Karaozek
It passed a little and it started to rain - put up a tent. Several clouds passed, rain charges, and after 3 hours I move out again. A slight drop in height and I find myself on a plateau with a forest:
View down the river. Karaozek. At the very bottom you can see the right slope of Kubadru. At the beginning of the forest, on the left, if you look closely, you can see a lake.
I walk to the stream and get up for lunch. Warm, sunny, the fire was kindled easily. The water issue is getting better, but I still don't understand what it was. A rather sad stage begins - a bunch of forest and misunderstandings about the path. There is little pleasant in the taiga without a path, although going down is generally not difficult. From time to time I see traces of what seems to be a horse trail, but only traces. I continue to dump along the left bank, but then clamps and a steep slope appear on it:
Clamps p. Karaozek
I wander to the right bank. On the right bank there are traces of small trails, but nothing more. Animal. Somewhere in the middle of the discharge to Kubadra I notice a section of a powerful path at the top of 50 meters. I go up to it and it turns out to be a good horse trail, invisible on satellite images. Incredibly lucky.
Horse trail. View back to the upper reaches of the river. Karaozek
The trail gets higher and higher, but still towards the Kubadru valley, crosses the GZL and goes to a plateau-like section of the massif between the river. Karaozek and r. left Kubadru:
Plateau-like section of the massif between the r. Karaozek and r. left Kubadru. On the left in the distance you can see the lane. Spacious, which starts right. Kubadru.
Back view, downstream of the Kubadru. On the left is a treeless shoulder, and a path leads out of the valley of the river onto it. Karaozek
As a result, the trail completely traverses the massif just below the GZL and in about an hour I run into a summer camp on the tributary. From there, 25 minutes of a quick, steep drop to the lion. Kubadru. I remember Google-PZ, that somewhere here there is a trail to the right Kubadr, because through the taiga without a trail there is no desire, although not far. I'll leave her searching for tomorrow. There is firewood, for dinner my traveling delicacy is pasta. Tent and dinner on the bank of the lion. Kubadru.
Evening camp on the left Kubadru. Pasta with sausage.
Stratus cloudy in the morning. There are small plans for today, so I’m not in a hurry - I’m lying and waiting. In two hours there was no change, no precipitation, so I have breakfast and look for a trail lightly. I put it 100 meters upstream and find it. After two fords (left and right. Kubadru) I find myself on the path I need along the river. right. Kubadru. All trails are equestrian.
On the trail along the right. Kubadru (to the left). In the distance the lion valley goes. Kubadru.
For 1.15 I reach the GZL and set up camp. Larch trees are all around - they don't really burn. I can hardly find a cedar pine tree and still have tea. Constant clouds, blowing and drizzling from time to time. I fill out a diary in two days in order to write this report later. I enjoy the emptiness around, you can be sad.
Etc. Kubadru. I camped in the distant larches.
At night there was radiation cooling and frost. I froze, slept and therefore got up late, at 4.50. Prifigev, I quickly prepare breakfast and leave at 6.20. There are a lot of plans today - to cross the plateau connecting the Aktash and Kosh-Agach nodes of the Kurai ridge. While breakfast is being digested (and I always have it for meat), I go slowly. I go out to the area of the lane. Spacious and an awesome view of a wide and long valley opens up:
Upper right Kubadru
Upper right Kubadru
Reminiscent of landscapes from The Lord of the Rings (filmed in New Zealand). It’s not easy to go down into the valley, go up too, so I traverse the valley along the slope. I thought I had made the wrong decision, but then I find the path. Then I take it to the left and go along the Teranjik stream to the east, to the plateau. As such, there is no pass, it's just a section of a high plateau, along which you can get to the upper reaches of the lower. Idulgem. It is very cold, for about 2500 I had to put on a jacket, despite the scorching sun. I leave the transfer, because in a week we will go here with friends. I lay it with stones and moss, since there are a lot of horse tracks around, and a herd is visible above. Afraid of me.
I am leaving for the pass (it is from the back). View downstream of the Kubadru river. Lozhbinka on the right is the river. Teranjik
There are a lot of swampy areas and they stretch until the stream turns to the southeast, then the norm. I go out to the plateau - a great view of the North-Chuya ridge through the Kurai steppe:
Plateau over the river. Kuraika. The nearest rocks are the right bank of the Kuraika, the distant ones are the North Chuya ridge.
I traverse the entire plateau along the border of stones and grass. Few wetlands. I turn on the phone - it doesn't catch. It's nice to walk - a beautiful view and all the rules are underfoot. Another herd. The leader looks at me very menacingly, but nevertheless the herd dumps. As the herd moves away, the closing leader constantly stops and looks back at me. They give the impression of being intelligent animals. I reach the pass to the river. bottom Idulgem - from there you can see Ukok and the spurs of the South Chuya ridge:
Pass to the lower Idulgem. On the left you can see two clouds with charges of rain.
I go down to Idulgem on the left side, traverse, since everything below can be swampy. Idulgem is very gentle, drops slowly. Over time, you still have to go down and it turns out that the swampy areas have dried up, only the bumps stick out. Somewhere ahead, about 8 kilometers, it has been raining for a long time. Bushes begin, there is no path. As a result, hail begins (the cloud came from the west, from the back) and I camp. From 4.50 to 16.20 walked 20 km - a good day, eventful. I think about what to do next and decide that it is inconvenient to take the peak closest to me or the pass next to it in order to go further. I decide tomorrow to bring down to the lake below through the third side gorge on the right side of the valley and arrange a day there.
The first side gorge from Idulgem to the south (lane Idulgemsky).
Bushes, trails are nowhere to be found. The sky is blue and clear. Since there is no firewood, immediately the currency is down and I have breakfast near the first larches. I eat and drink tea while sitting on a huge boulder:
The view of the third gorge is beautiful:
View of the third gorge - at the top of the lane. "Entropic"
Reverse view from the entropy pass. Far to the left - the upper course of the river. Nizh. Ildugem, to the right - lower.
Saddle lane Entropic
The rewind and descent are a jumble of mounds 20 meters high, large talus and a few trees. There is no single and clear line down at all. Everything is absolutely chaotic and that's why I called this pass "entropic". Nevertheless, there are tourists along the pass, but they hardly help anything.
View down from the slope of lane. Entropic. In the distance the Chuya steppe and the North Chuya ridge. You need to go down to the left, as there are discharges on the right to the lake.
You need to go down to the left. On the right you can see the light green meadows of the massif with logging (read below).
A little below the GZL I find a mediocre path that goes down almost to the lake, and then passes its left side about 100 meters from it. The trail is very bad, and then it gets completely lost, I take it to the right and go out to the western end of the lake. In general, I would not advise this pass to go from below. A fig approach, the takeoff itself is inconvenient with a large drop - you can say from the lake, that is, 330 meters. With hillocks there will be all 500.
It's cool on the lake. There is a place for a camp only at the western end (mb at the eastern end, but I doubt it). The firewood washed ashore. There is no parking - somewhere in the grass you can see traces of a small and very old fire, nothing more. The lake is not visited. It was formed due to the fact that a rock crumbled and flooded the drain. Among the fragments of the rock there is a huge rock, six meters in height - of course, I jumped off it and shot it in the first person with a GoPro. The depth next to the boulder is five meters, the water is absolutely transparent. All in all, a great place:
It was a little scary to spend the night - I was afraid of bears. I do not know how in this valley, but in general they are found along the ridge. The place is very remote, people come here, God forbid, once or twice a year. In the afternoon I decide to start descending closer to the meeting point with friends. Before leaving, I bathed again to keep it fresh. The path, as mentioned, is almost none, bushes up to the waist. As a result, I find myself on a rather steep slope with a bunch of bad animal trails. Since there is nothing to catch on this slope, and I, actually, on a different slope, I go down to the river through the uncomfortable taiga and climb the opposite slope.
The right slope of the river. Raw Tydtugem. View of the lower course and the left slope. In the distance one can see a spur of the North Chuya ridge between Chagan and Kurai.
At the top of the logging site, everything is in the roads (ruts). As a result, I overcome this forest and along a good path I reach the river. Karasubazhi, there is a good descent down it. Today's taiga and bushes really got pissed off, especially the slopes, traverses and sets along them. I got more water, climbed a hill in the valley and set up a tent with a beautiful view of the three ridges and the steppe:
Camp after descending from the ridge. View of the river valley Karasubazhi. Behind the green ridge of the Kurai steppe, the North Chuya ridge whitens even further.
I walk along the Karasubazhi valley. Interesting views, which I wanted - steppe, far away, bare slopes. I don't like forests.
Valley of Karasubazhi. Board of the Kurai ridge.
Valley of Karasubazhi. Board of the Kurai ridge. At the top of the plateau that I traversed.
In the morning I wake up and it turns out that there is no water in Kuraik. I go higher and it turns out that the water gradually goes under the ground between the stones. With a decrease in the power of the river over time (no rain), the point of disappearance of water is ever higher upstream, the speed of movement of the point is about 3 meters per hour.
Friends come, we shift some of the things to me, think about where to camp, because after the plane and the road they are “none”.
At the foot of the ridge, near the river. Kuraika. East view.
We collect water, climb to the nearest site on the slope of the ridge, light a fire:
View from the camp to the Kurai steppe and the North Chuya ridge.
Despite the tiredness of friends, we got up early enough (4.30) to readjust to Altai time - sunrise at 2.30 am Moscow time. We had breakfast, then it started to rain and therefore morning sleep. For today, we plan to go up the Kuraika, as far as we can go. For various reasons, the friends planned a mattress hike, so there was no stress. First there is a track along Kuraika, then a path. In the upper course, just above the equipped parking lot, a river wanders. We reached the border of the GZL and camped.
Views of the opposite slope of Kuraika open up: 
Forward:
Copper slopes of the Kuraisky ridge. October. Evening.
For the Kuraisky ridge, most of it is treeless. If the western part of the ridge has forests in the river valleys and, then the eastern part is characterized by a complete absence of forest cover. The predominant tree species on the ridge are and.
Kuraisky ridge in March
Kuraisky ridge in October
Most of the ridge's peaks do not have official names. The most high peak the ridge is the Upper Ortolyk (3446 meters). Of those with an official name, one can also highlight the mountains: Upper (2951 m), Ildugemsky (3208 m), Tydtugem (3193 m), Kuyuktanar (3260 m) and a number of others.
Kurai ridge in Ulagan region
Little is known about the Kuraisky Range in the tourist world. This is the "terra incognita" of Altai. Being in the "shadow of glory" of the Chuyskiy proteins, the Kuraisky ridge remains little-visited by tourists. In the summer of 2008, an expedition was carried out to explore the tourist route in this region. A lot of interesting things were discovered here - picturesque waterfalls, high passes, beautiful lakes. Tourist opportunities in the region are great. It may be interesting to those who have already walked a lot in Altai and wants to get new impressions.
The highest peak of the ridge - Upper Ortolyk
Current weather forecast in the region of the Kuraisky ridge:
This day turned out to be just a gift! A gift in every way. First, the sun was shining brightly in the morning. Secondly, small white clouds were crawling across the sky. These two factors are already a landscape photographer's dream! Thirdly, it was warm - something about 26 degrees. And fourthly ... As I already wrote in the post "Altai 2011. Kuraiskaya Steppe", on the previous day a huge gray cloud got stuck over the North-Chuky ridge. So, to our delight, at night this cloud decorated the ridge with a blanket of snow. The SCHH shone with fresh colors and pristine purity. Well, in fact, you will see everything for yourself soon!
Our way lay to an unnamed alpine lake, hidden among the numerous rocky and lifeless peaks of the Kurai Range. As Igor, the organizer of this route, said, the lake is called "Lake of Mountain Spirits". He also referred to the story of Ivan Efremov and Choros-Gurkin and the mercury mine near the lake. Well, what can you imagine to lure tourists! I did not begin to dispel his legend, one "Lake of mountain spirits" more, one less. After all, there are already quite a few of them in Russia. On the map, this lake has no name, just an unnamed lake. But it is so picturesque !!!
Our companions today (and tomorrow too) are the same as we are lovers of autotravels from Novosibirsk, Alexander and Natasha and their four-legged friend with a strange name Hryunya. The organizer of the route, as well as part-time guide and driver of the UAZ, on which we moved to the lake, was the aforementioned Igor. You could, of course, try to get to the lake yourself, but this is only if you know the way. Naturally, we didn’t know the road, so we trusted Igor, a native Aktash resident, who had worked for many years at the Aktash mine and naturally knew the surrounding mountains well.
The way to the lake, or rather the automobile part of it, lay through the currently idle Aktash mercury mine. The road to the mine, I must say, is getting much worse every year. After the development was closed, there was no one to follow her. The spring streams washed deep ditches and huge boulders appeared on the surface. I would not recommend going there in a car, although at the mine we saw an old Volga. We passed the bridge over the Yarlyamry stream, along which the road runs, and almost in front of the waste heaps left from the mercury mining we turned to the left up the hill. After a kilometer, we made the first stop overlooking the Aigulak ridge, cooled the UAZ engine a little, had a smoke and drove on. After another kilometer at one of the forks we turned to the right. And soon, after one of the many rises, we saw the MFR in all its glory. How has he changed over the past night !!! The morning sun clearly cast shadows on the slopes of the ridge. Freshly fallen snow added contrast. The blue sky and fresh greenery of the nearby slopes only intensified the effect.
Severo-Chuisky ridge from the side of the Aktash mine.
The height of the shooting location is 2370 meters. The mine is in front, 200 meters below us.
Panorama of the Severo-Chuisky ridge
The mine, or rather the main buildings, were now out of sight. They disappeared below, behind the gentle slope of the mountain on which we were. From the opposite side, behind our backs, a view of the top crowned with a RRL mast at an altitude of 3000 meters opened up. A road with a small serpentine leads to the RRL on the side of the mountain. They say that climbing this serpentine adds to the blood of adrenaline just as much as driving along Katu-Yaryk.
RRL mast at an altitude of 3000 meters. If you look closely, you can see the road leading to the mast on the right side of the mountainside.
We admired a little more midrange frequency response, then it should have been even more interesting. We went down from the pass again down to the Yarlyamry river and crawled up along it along the right bank. A small stream flows into Yarlyamry, we ferried across it. A little more uphill and the road was cut off. Then the walking part of the route began. By the way, I want to say that the route is like a horseshoe - we were not supposed to return to the starting point. We must pay tribute to Igor, the circular route is much more interesting. And besides, Igor cheated a little, having prepared a couple of pleasant bonuses for us, which he did not mention right away.
We crawled to the first ascent, it was hard to get used to. We caught our breath a little on the edge of the talus, from which a beautiful view of the Yarlyamry valley opens.
View from the scree in front of the kurumnik.Below the thin ribbon of Yarlyamry is twisted
Here the trail ended, further it was necessary to pass over a huge barrow. Looking ahead, I will say that for most of us this part of the route turned out to be the most difficult, there were further ups and downs, but now along a soft grassy slope, along which it is much more pleasant to walk than to climb over rocks. After all, I really want to look around, and on the barrow without the risk of breaking my leg it was not possible to raise my head even for a second. The four-legged friend with the cool name Khryunya had to be dragged in his arms, his short paws were not at all suitable for movement over rough terrain.
Remains of the "ancient lizard"
On the way, we stumbled upon the remains of an ancient lizard,))), bleached by the sun and scattered over the stones. By the way, it was not in vain that I remembered about the ancient lizard. The unnaturally brightly painted rocks around, the Yarlyamry ribbon winding down the green valley below, the snow-white peaks of a distant ridge in the distance and the complete absence of any traces of human activity within sight reminded us of frames from the cartoon "Earth before the beginning of time" (we watched with our daughter when she was small ). The landscape was too unreal for our urban consciousness.
On the descent from the kurumnik
On the left is a stone slope, on the right is luscious greenery - the contrasts of the Kurai ridge.
We went down from the kurumnnik to the Yarlyamry river, the border between the stone and the lush greenery. The water in the stream is crystal clear. Refreshed a little. Despite the sunny day, a rather cool breeze was blowing here at the height and I didn't want to take off my windbreakers.
By the brook
Clean, cool water of Yarlyamry
Smoke break
Then there was a long climb along a slope covered with dwarf birch, dense grass and a thick layer of moss. The height began to increase. Approximately 2500 meters, my daughter had a headache, or rather, dizziness appeared. All the same, it is the first time at such a height, adaptation has begun. I had to stop often.
Approximately there, to the ridge between two rocks, we walked.
Tired! Height adaptation.
Kurumnik, through which we passed from above, seemed to be a heap of rubble
And here it finally seemed! Lake! First, a little edge, then more and more ... Strength immediately increased, either from the fact that we finally reached, or from the view of the lake ... Its color! And who said it was the Lake of the Dead Spirits. Personally, I would call this lake Emerald. Well, maybe someone will not agree!
Come on!
Moreover, what is the Lake of the Dead Spirits, when such beautiful LIVING flowers grow on its shores. I really don't understand them, but it's still beautiful!
Yellow poppies in August.
These are so cute, and even on a red background
Another bunch!
It's easier for me to convey the beauty of the lake with photographs than with words, so just take a look.
Paints!
And so, if you bend very low to the water.
Just for memory ...
... and for the soul)))
The lake is located in a small depression between colored stone peaks and there is practically no wind around it, there are only slight ripples on the water. By the way, the water is relatively warm, despite the fact that the lake is located at an altitude of 2652 meters above sea level. It exists, most likely due to the melting of snow accumulating in winter - no streams that do not flow into the lake are seen and the water level in spring should be slightly higher than at the end of summer. You can't see any living creatures in the lake - in winter, given the shallow depth, it freezes completely.
You could sit on the shore and admire the views endlessly, but you had to move on the way back. And here Igor presented us with the first surprise. At the beginning of the campaign, he swore an oath that immediately after the lake there would be a descent down to the Yarlyamry valley. Now he was "glad" that he would have to climb one more height on the way back. I had to go.))) The conductor knows better! We climbed the next climb.
Higher and higher!
Somewhere at an altitude of 2715 meters, we found ourselves on a small pass, or on the ridge of a mountain, from which a new view opened up. In front of us, far below, lay the entire Kuraiskaya steppe, the Severo-Chuisky ridge, we could even see the Chikhachev ridge in the distance, also covered with freshly fallen snow. The MFR did not seem so high now as you see it from the steppe. They say that on other days, when the air is especially transparent, you can see Belukha from here. I really have a hard time believing it! But in order to check, it is advisable to have at least binoculars with you, or a compass for determining the azimuth to Belukha.
Emerald lake from the pass
MFC has become "slightly lower"
We went a little further along the ridge. Height according to the navigator is 2733 meters. There was no where to go higher - it was dangerous, there was no further vegetation and the slopes were steep rocky taluses.