Salt salt lake mountain bogdo. An analogue of the Dead Sea in Russia is Lake Baskunchak and Mount Big Bogdo
Taking this opportunity, last week I took a couple of days off, hooked up to the weekend and went to visit good friend to Astrakhan, - to extend your summer, eat watermelons, swim in the Volga and enjoy the temperature of +35 degrees. There are enough impressions in this short time, but in short, it is hot, dusty and flat there.
Now - about a trip to the very north of the region to Mount Bogdo and the salt lake Baskunchak, the name of which has been firmly embedded in the brain since the days of school lessons in geography. The mountain is only 150 meters high, but by local standards it is just Everest, and it offers stunning views of the Steppe. Naturally, it was absolutely impossible to miss the opportunity to climb somewhere even in the conditions of the Astrakhan semi-desert.
In fact, the entire territory of the Astrakhan region is one large flat plain, which in places even sinks below sea level. There are no trees, hot sun, sand, dust and endless steppe roads. 
Also, the Astrakhan Gas Processing Plant is not childish. 
All the police this weekend were concentrated in the city where the Day of the Oilman was taking place, as well as the search for a group of Astrakhan partisans, who recently shot four patrols. Therefore, the speed on the tracks was controlled by nanotechnological robocops. 
Sometimes very serious comrades came across 
Along the tracks, they sell either meat or fish, as well as watermelons and melons ... 
And local cows generally do not pay any attention to cars, constantly creating emergency situations. 
So we drove for two hours, and the landscape outside the window barely changed. But at some point, like a mirage, Mount Bogdo appeared from the haze. 
The temptation to rush to it directly across the steppe was great, but they decided not to tempt fate and drove along the "normal" bypass road. It turned out to be a gravel embankment several tens of kilometers long. 
It is impossible to drive along it quickly, and it is a pity for the car, therefore, 20 meters from the road, there is a knurled track right along the steppe. Here it is - somewhat reminiscent of the African savannah. 
In search of Lake Baskunchak, we arrived at the eponymous locality, which, surprisingly, looked like an ordinary village in the Vladimir region. 
As soon as we entered the village, from somewhere two Kazakh children immediately ran up, who vying with each other began to assure that only they can show the way to the lake and Mount Bogdo, and we ourselves will not find and get lost. We decided to take them all the same as guides, at the same time and give the opportunity to earn a little extra money.
They decided not to go to the lake - there was a very complicated logistics chain to get to the place where it was "allowed" to swim, so they didn't waste time and went straight to the mountain, especially since it was already very close. 
At the entrance, it turned out that the mountain and the entire surrounding steppe is a nature reserve, entry and exit into which is prohibited. 
The question of entry was resolved by issuing a "voucher" for 140 rubles per person, and now we are at the entrance to Bogdo. 
To go upstairs, you need to overcome a rather steep ascent up the steps. Although not high, it was pretty hard in the wild heat. 
But one has only to go upstairs, as the view of the white Baskunchak is simply mesmerizing 
We can say that this is our Dead Sea - it is located at minus 21 meters relative to the world's oceans. Baskunchak is a kind of depression on the top of a salt mountain, with its base extending thousands of meters into the depths of the earth and covered by a layer of sedimentary rocks.
Salt began to be mined there back in the 8th century, and now it is up to 80% of all Russian production. If you look closely, you can see a line in the photo. railroad that runs right over the lake. 
The lake is fed mainly from sources. Numerous springs flow into it, bringing more than 2.5 thousand tons of salt into the lake during the day. Practically inexhaustible resource. 
You look in any direction - and you go crazy. 
And our guides frolic around 
At all times people liked this place 
The way back 
... take another look at the lake ... 
... and again down the stairs to the car 
Gradually the weather began to deteriorate, and the long-awaited rain began. And along with the rain came the understanding that Astrakhan horses are as fearless as cows. 
The Astrakhan region is famous for the fact that in the area of the modern village of Selitrennoye there was once the capital of the Golden Horde, Saray-Batu, where Russian princes actively traveled to get the right to reign. Now only a settlement remains of the Saray, which is being actively excavated by archaeologists, but this does not prevent the military-historical festival "Itil Coast", which attracts military-historical freaks from all over the country, to regularly hold in this area. 
Like any such event, the festival turned out to be quite an interesting sight. 
Lake Baskunchak. Mount Big Bogdo
The road from Elton to Baskunchak and the Big Bogdo mountain.
So, leaving the vicinity of Lake Elton, we headed for Baskunchak. In general terms, we had two roads to choose from: the first was a normal asphalt road back through Pallasovka, Volzhsky and Akhtubinsk, that is, give a very round circle and drive a total of almost 400 km, one might say, superfluous. The second option was much more interesting, risky and much shorter - to go directly through the steppes. And so we did.
There are exactly as many routes Elton - Baskunchak as there are ruts in the steppe, that is, a great many. However, you should be aware of what kind of territory you are in. Firstly, this is a border zone, that is, theoretically, our border guards can tie, the border, by the way, in these parts is purely conditional, to notice that it is very difficult to get to Kazakhstan - it means that Kazakh border guards can "accept" on the other side. Meeting neither with them, nor with ours does not bring anything good in itself. You can protect yourself somewhat by moving a little further from the border, but in this case you will directly find yourself on the territory of the Kapustin Yar military training ground. The time of work and testing is not known there, that is, there are no guarantees that some kind of burned-out rocket or some other rubbish in this spirit will not get into the car. In extreme cases, the military themselves can "accept".
One way or another, even in preparation for the trip, as a navigator, I chose the simplest and most balanced route: I just stupidly cut along the border. In this case, the main task is not to get bogged down in a salt marsh, not to go abroad, as well as to jump out strictly at point number 11 - this is the only railway crossing in those parts. A little higher, I gave a diagram taken from one of the Volga automobile forums. Red is the path we followed, Blue is
- for extreme lovers, right through the heart of the military training ground.
Well, let's go !!! The picture shows the road to the Priozerny - Bolshoi Simkin sections. It is indicated on most maps and atlases. Two of our three navigators (we used the navigation kits iGO, Navitel and Avtosputnik - we will write a separate report about navigation at the end) are also well aware of it.
Here is the village of Bol. Simkin. It is slightly off the road that ends here. Further, there is just a track in the steppe. We are guided by the compass, as well as the local power line - we can go along it for a few more kilometers.
The temperature overboard is growing just before our eyes: +34 ... +35 ... +38. The road is so dusty that many kilometers of the train are left behind the car. Dust is everywhere: in the car, in the trunk, in the passenger compartment, even under clothes. Despite the fact that all windows and doors are closed in the car, there is simply nothing to breathe at a speed of more than 50 km per hour. We stop soaking the bandanas and arafats with water - it becomes much easier to breathe through such bandages. In the picture vzdor095 , supruga_grafa and validol182 .
Let's go further. In general, it is not so difficult to navigate the steppe if you have a rough idea of your location and the basics of orientation on the ground. In such situations, clouds can be good helpers, if you know the direction of the wind, then you can pretty much determine where and where you are going from. True, on our day, the sky was completely clear - the sun was shining all day. Google's images are just not very relevant here and can only give an approximate location, the fact is that the images of this area date back to 2006-7, during which time the ruts and roads in the steppes moved several times.
Let's look in the direction of the "Singing Rocks". In general, for 500 rubles, they could already be allowed to drive a car to the ridge of the mountain. Fortunately, there is a road almost to the very top. Instead, everyone is forced to park at the bottom and stomp up on foot. First up the stairs, and then just along the path.
Outputs of red clay.
Let's take another look at the lake.
Our Navara is parked down there. We get down back.
And so the day ended. In an attempt to find a place to spend the night on Akhtuba, they fell into a ditch and, as a result, bent the disk. The whole next day I had to spend in Astrakhan. Rolling, argon welding, balancing - instead of a trip to Atyrau. But that is another story.
Yes, the distance from the regional center is serious, the road in both directions is almost 800 kilometers. But it was worth it. I'll tell and show you everything in order.
The views are already on the rise, the most amazing are opening:
An even more stunning view opens up from the top:
I went downstairs and walked to the lake. From the top of the mountain, the distance seemed very modest, in reality it turned out to be about 20 minutes on foot. The distance was brightened up by the next stunning views:
Then the salt lake Baskunchak begins, which is not inferior in healing properties To the dead sea in Israel. The water is oily and very bitter.
The return journey was accompanied by no less beautiful landscapes:
Summary: it is obligatory to go. The virgin nature made a strong impression on me - you understand that all this is worth thousands of years in practically the form in which it is now. A huge charge of positive energy - you leave the reserve with an absolutely bright head, in a very good mood, with the feeling that at least a little, but your soul has become cleaner. The energy sector is very good there.
Photo and text: Alexander Ralnikov
Lake Baskunchak and its immediate surroundings are undoubtedly one of the most fascinating places in the southern part of the country. In my opinion, it is business card stunning and diverse Astrakhan region
And remember that every picture can be clicked for a better view (Sony a7 camera)
You need to focus on the village of Nizhny Baskunchak. The road leads to it by a dead end (a branch from the Volzhsky - Astrakhan highway), asphalted and of very decent quality. Then you can not waste your time looking for an entrance to the mountain. Firstly, in order to leave the village in the right direction, it is true not to enter it at all, and secondly, there are so many forks inside Nizhny Baskunchak itself that it is easier to put a special boy who offers services in a car and he will show you the correct exit. At first, he will charge you 300 rubles for his super-guide services, but in the end it easily drops to 100-150 rubles. So, take it with you, eat about 500 meters and then everything is clear. Time is usually more expensive
The road to the checkpoint in the Bogdinsko-Baskunchaksky nature reserve looks like the following. After the village, along the well-rolled steppe road, another 15 kilometers
You run into a barrier, your aunt comes out, says 190 rubles per person. You need to go out, get a pass and listen to the instructions. After the barrier is raised, you need to drive about 4 kilometers along a road that resembles a high-mountainous Tibetan one. As if you are in Nepal
Fascinating pictures
If you're lucky, in such places you can hear the singing of the wind due to a certain relief and direction of movement of air masses.
You can stop, take pictures, breathe
But it is forbidden to approach the rocks. And it is right. Firstly, the reserve, and secondly, the place in world geology and geography is unique and later I will explain a little why
Pictures are different. But in fact, this does not fit into my head - as in the middle of the steppe, which stretches for many hundreds of kilometers in the most ordinary flat canvas, such mountains rise sharply ...
In fact, the heights are not extreme. The base of the Big Bogdo Mountain is located at an altitude of minus 20 meters above sea level, the top is plus 130 meters above sea level. It turns out that the height of the mountain is only 150 meters, but in good weather, clear without haze, this hill can be seen from 50-70 kilometers away. Amazing steppe effect
After 4 kilometers you reach the parking lot, from where you can see the view towards Kazakhstan. For tens of kilometers
There are initially three routes:
1. On Mount Big Bogdo
2. On the hills around the mountain (2.5 km)
3. To Lake Baskunchak and around it (more than 50 km)
Now only the second is open. It is impossible to climb the mountain because an endangered species of lizards, listed in the World Red Book, was recently discovered, and the third route is opened on July 15, which is quite officially stated on the reserve's website.
The beginning of the route. No special training is required, there are no steep climbs. And it seems visually that the trail is less than 2.5 km
The northeastern slope of the mountain has a reddish tint. This place is called a mecca for photographers. And also for historians, geologists, geographers and many others. By the way, Buddhists consider this mountain sacred and every Kalmyk should come here on foot at least once and worship the holy mountain. So, red is red clay, which is 300 million years old. Just think about this figure! While preparing to write this material, I came across a good comparison that Christianity is only 2 thousand years old, and this land is 300 million. In this place, especially if you are not surrounded by crowds of tourists (in my case, there was no one else at all), in general, in a short time you can understand what kind of earthly problems are insignificant in their essence .. The best psychotherapy is not a good neuropsychiatrist or therapist, this is a trip to places like this. I don't understand why people go to Bali for six months when there are places nearby.
Stunning landscapes. The trail along route number 2 is rather well-developed, although, as for me, there is no need for these railings here.
Everywhere there are information boards with the history of the place, its legends, characteristics of Lake Baskunchak - one of the largest salt lakes in Europe
No color enhancement, everything is natural. V different time days, the shades differ. It happens even redder
Zen landscape opens from the tops of the hills. On the left is a piece of Lake Baskunchak
Observation deck. You cannot believe that you are at an altitude of only 100 meters. The steppe effect is that any mountain looks huge
Shadows from the clouds
Salt has been mined on Lake Baskunchak for many years. The dead-end branch of the railway line goes directly to the lake, from where the freight trains are then dispersed throughout the country. The first mentions date back to the 8th century, when salt was also mined here and rolled along the Great Silk Road
A separate word in support of the tourism department of the Astrakhan region. Just great! Without unnecessary obsession, trying to preserve the reserve, people here have created excellent conditions for a pleasant pastime. For example Saratov region I can say that there are no less unique places in the region, but they are in an extremely neglected state and there is no smell of tourism. Why all these benches and railings - you ask? The answer is simple - talk to the locals. They will tell you about what kind of dirt and devastation was in these places before they created protected area... Now at least some kind of control and cleaning
... But, since I am an active person, and I often need everything at once, I could not prioritize what is still necessary, and what can be sacrificed. Yes, and somehow they constantly surfaced profitable offer from travel companies, beckoning to distant warm countries at favorable prices. :) But one fine day the inspiration came that I get real pleasure traveling around Russia, believe it or not, but only at Baikal I wanted to yell (no, not that way ... I wanted to ORAAAAAAAT) with delight, only in the Caucasus mountains it froze heart, only in Optina Pustyn it seemed to me that time had stopped, and a troika was about to fly out, urged on by the driver. And I made up my mind! Without running around and in a hurry, without being sprayed on different objects, just go to Lake Baskunchak!
Train "Moscow - Verkhniy Baskunchak" on the way for a day. Part of the way passes through the territory of Kazakhstan.
Back in Moscow, I decided that I would prefer accommodation in the Baskunchak sanatorium (http://www.sanbask.ru) to the private sector. I will not post photos here, they are all on the site. And all are true. It should be noted that the staff of the sanatorium is very friendly and helpful. And the food is delicious and plentiful. There are a lot of procedures, but since I have no indications for treatment (ugh, ugh ...) I can only say that the relaxation is absolute! And separately, of course, the attentiveness of the director should be noted, who communicates with all the guests and reacts instantly to every word and wish. Literally!
And now, actually Baskunchak:
Salt Lake Baskunchak is located in the Akhtuba district of the Astrakhan region. Wikipedia writes that 300 g of salt is dissolved in 1 liter of water ... I have not checked, but salt is everywhere ... everything is white in the photo - salt! The shores, the bottom and everything that falls into the lake are covered with it ...
On the other side, Mount Bogdo is visible, read about it below.
I was at the lake in mid-May, this is not the season yet, so there are practically no people, and you can enjoy endless landscapes, dissolving in the wind and bird trills, of which there is an unimaginable variety.
Locals say that these pillars are from the times when salt was taken out with the help of camels. Unfortunately, how exactly they were used remained a mystery to me.
And this braid is also salt !!!
It is absolutely impossible to drown in the lake, its waters push everything to the surface. But you need to be very careful, because water contact with eyes is extremely unpleasant and requires URGENT rinsing with fresh water ...
And after bathing, the salt crystallizes on the body, and you turn into a walking salt shaker, a very funny feeling.
Mount Big Bogdo
There is also a small one, but it is located on the territory of Kazakhstan.
Because from the sanatorium organized excursions is not carried out, then I turned to local residents for help. I was recommended Arman 8-927-559-07-00. In turn, I recommend it to everyone who visits these places.
Mount Bogda is located on the territory of the reserve. The entrance is paid, 200 rubles.
The flora and fauna of the reserve is very diverse, we were lucky enough to see a fox and not see vipers. Unfortunately, the tulips have already faded, but the whole steppe is filled with wormwood and its intoxicating smell.
Wish-fulfilling stone. I need to put aside a coin!
Mount Big Bogdo is considered sacred by Buddhists, and pilgrims come here.
The soils are saturated with iron. The mountain rises above sea level every year and layers of ferruginous soil are interspersed with salt to create a stunning landscape.
View of Lake Baskunchak from Mount Bogdo
In addition to Big Bogdo, you can climb the caves. The pleasure is not for everybody. But for the sake of curiosity, I also climbed once. According to Armand's stories, there are amateurs who descend into these labyrinths for several days, settling there with an overnight stay. To each his own…
The caves appear unexpectedly. In the middle of the steppe, level as a table, there are gaps ...