What to do on Elbrus in mid-October. Autumn Elbrus

Majestic mountains, beautiful gorges, almost untouched by civilization, mountain paths and natural narzans - what else is needed in order to take a break from everyday routine for both body and soul? Get some crazy energy, warm up and enjoy the warm autumn rays of the sun and get ready for a damp, cold winter.

This time, somehow quickly we gathered in the mountains ...

There were 10 days of vacation left. We monitored the weather in several districts for a week, namely, they looked at Abkhazia, Abrau-Dyurso, Dombay (the hope remained to inspect several objects after last year's vacation in Teberda). But they stopped at the Elbrus region.

It has long been planned to go to the Elbrus region for a few days, since I was there in the late 80s for New Years holidays, and then my husband and I one day in August 2012 went on an excursion from Kislovodsk. This time, all the stars converged, and the rest was 100% successful.

The weather pleased us all 6 days. The temperature regime was different. At night and early in the morning - slight frosts, in the afternoon - just summer, in the evening around 6 pm it became cool again. In a few hours one could visit all four seasons.

Rest in autumn Caucasus mountains, with the contemplation of the two-headed Elbrus towering above the clouds, during the Indian summer, with a riot of crimson-yellow, green, blue-white and blue colors - just grace!

Accommodation, as always, was booked through booking .com. A very nice house on the banks of the Baksan mountain river in Terskol, with gorgeous views from the window.

We were satisfied with the housing, except for one thing: poor sound insulation, or rather, in my opinion, is completely absent. But in principle, you can close your eyes to this.

Before leaving, they drew up a small route plan, which was practically carried out without fanaticism.

The Cheget glade was located 1 - 1.5 km from our house across the bridge along a forest path.

One way, through the forest - three kilometers of ecological trail to the Narzanov glade,

in the other direction - 5 kilometers of ecotrail to the Azau glade, or rather a little further, to the Azau waterfall.

A three-minute walk from the house - shops, cafes, bus stop.

Eco trails have passed several times. Walking in the woods in this weather is a pleasure.

On the Narzanov glade, after our last visit, another spring was discovered, now there are five of them. Narzan in all five sources is incomparable.

We walked a little along the Irik gorge to the Sand Castles - formations resulting from the combined action of water and wind, movements of the earth's crust and temperature drops

and along the Adyl-Su gorge - one of beautiful places Kabardino-Balkaria.

We took a whole day to climb Cheget and Elbrus. Once you rise to this height, then you want to walk there, breathe in the mountain air and see enough of all the beauty in full. And with regret you observe the groups of tourists who are given 20 - 30 minutes for inspection, photographing and descending.

You can climb Cheget by cable car to the level of 3050 m. It offers magnificent views of the village of Terskol and part of the Baksan gorge,

Nakra and Kogutai, Semerku glacier, and in good weather Elbrus is perfectly visible.

And it's hard to take your eyes off the sight of these pictures. It's very nice to just walk there. You can go down to the lake Donguz-Orun-Kol,

which was formed from the melting of glaciers, if, of course, border guards let it through. But you can admire it from above, its unusually beautiful color, or rather 3 colors. We collected delicious lingonberries and even found some blueberries, which were left untouched, probably especially for us.

And on Elbrus, climbing Gara-Bashi - you forget about everything in the world.

You just admire the picture that opens in front of you, holding your breath and as if you are floating in the clouds, you cannot breathe the purest air, see enough of the whitest snow. Now snowmobiles and snow groomers lift tourists to an altitude of 4,200 meters - this is even higher than the Eleven Shelter.

The price is the same (1,000 rubles per person), but on a snowmobile only two people are lifted at a time, and on snowmobiles from 5 to 12 people. Of course, we went up on a snowmobile. Impressions and feelings are simply indescribable.

The peaks of Elbrus seem so close to you, but, in fact, you still have to go and go to them. There is not a single thought in my head and the feeling is that you have just been born and begin to cognize the world that lies at your feet. Here time stops and you don't want to go back down to your problems, business, worries.

I will not describe our movements with precision. I will dwell only on some points that will be useful to someone when preparing for planning a vacation in the Elbrus region.

Transport ... it's special interesting topic for those who travel without a personal car, on foot. Before the trip, I searched the Internet on the subject: how to get from Nalchik to Terskol. There are several ways: a fixed-route taxi or a bus, which has an incomprehensible schedule at all, and a taxi for which they ask from 2,000 rubles. I called the bus station in Nalchik, where they told me that there are several flights, namely: 7.20 is the first flight, then around 10.00 and 13.00. Our train arrived in Nalchik at 7.40. Already at exactly 8.00 we were at the bus station and oh ... joy! we were lucky! minibus, which was supposed to leave at 7.20 !!! I was almost going to leave, but they noticed us running towards her, and in Terskol, we were at 10.15, having paid 600 rubles for two. We are incredibly lucky!

You can get from Nalchik to the city of Tyrnyauz on shuttle taxi, which go from 8.00 every hour, and from there also take a minibus to Terskol (it seems to go 2 times a day: in the morning and in the afternoon) or by taxi from 500 rubles and more.

In the village of Terskol, as they did not look for at least some kind of timetable at stops, announcements of movement public transport- found nothing. Locals call different time movement. This is of course very annoying.

But the taxi remains. At the railway station in Nalchik, taxi drivers rush to you, almost knocking you off your feet, as soon as you go down to the platform, offering to go to different parts of our country. The distance from the railway station to the bus station is 2.2 km, which is offered to travel for 200 !!! rubles. We got there in 150, although we had city taxis' phones, but there was no time to call, we had to get to our destination faster. And already back, when we were driving from vacation, they called a taxi by phone and the meter from the bus station in Nalchik to the railway station knocked out 65 rubles !!!

The same picture is with the local "bombils" in Terskol. From the village to the Azau glade they take 200 rubles. To the village. Elbrus (from Terskol to it is about 10 km.) They ask for 500 rubles, and on a minibus - 40 rubles per person, but you still need to enter it ... they are packed to overflowing. We accidentally saw the number of a local taxi on the bump when walking along the Adyl-Su gorge, and it helped a lot. We got from Elbrus to Terskol for 200 rubles, and the next day, when we were leaving home, we took a taxi to the Tyrnyauz bus station for 500 rubles, and from there to Nalchik it was easy by minibus for 300 rubles for two. So the work of public transport in these places is poor. I want to take, I want not to take!

Another interesting point is the price policy for the lifts.

Climbing Cheget (2 levels) - 700 rubles. Everything is simple and straightforward.

But the price list for Elbrus is very interesting and varied. Ascent and descent (1 time) 1 - 3 turn, that is, from the Azau glade to the station. Mir - 950 rubles (tourist rate), for the 4th line to Gara-Bashi, another 600 rubles must be paid. This is on a new lift with French cabins.

On the old pendulum cable car 1 - 3 turn, that is, also to the station. World and back - 500 rubles. It will be an old trailer for 20 people. From st. An old one-chair cable car for 200 rubles also operates from Mir to Gara-Bashi. But you can use a new one for 600 rubles.

And there is also a climbing tariff for a new cable car, which is valid for 7 days from the date of its passage. Also, 1 ascent and 1 descent for all 4 stages and costs 1200 rubles.

So when at the box office we took 2 tickets for the mountaineering tariff, the cashier was a little surprised and said: "What, do you want to save some money?" And why not actually. But those who come in tourist groups are not told this, and they impose tickets at a tourist rate for 1550 rubles for 4 lines. In general, something like that.

Well, the last thing I would like to dwell on is food. It is not difficult to eat in the village and its surroundings, there are a lot of cafes for every taste and budget. Ate in different places and everywhere in large portions, deliciously cooked and well served.

We had a refrigerator and e-mail in our room. kettle. This was enough for breakfast. Drinking tea in the evening is also good.

Next to our dwelling there was a five-story building, which houses a shop and a small cafe (canteen), but with very attractive prices and deliciously prepared dishes. We tried on ourselves, green borscht, lamb pilaf, chicken cutlets, everything is very tasty, and the price was very pleased. You can take it out.

We visited the Rakhat cafe in the village,

in which you can catch a fish, it will be immediately cooked, eat a delicious large beef cutlet Rakhat, after which you can no longer put anything in your stomach) and an incredibly tasty, hearty dessert pancakes "Riddle",

as well as many more delicious dishes. This is a whole restaurant complex with a sauna, on the bank of a mountain river, with a cozy two-level hall with a fireplace. We also had lunch at the Kupol (Turtle) cafe.

I read a lot of reviews about the cafe at the upper station of Cheget. We decided to try on ourselves pasties with meat, cheese, washed down with berry tea.

Just wonderful. The chebureks are very large and tasty, there are a lot of fillings, and the price is generally pleasing: 100 rubles for cheburek and 50 rubles for tea! Between the first and second stations on Cheget there is "Pirozhkovaya", which everyone praises, especially - pies with lingonberries. We decided to try it too. But in fact, this is not a pie in the usual sense, but the same cheburek only slightly smaller than at the upper station, for the same 100 rubles. By the way, we liked the dough in pasties at the upper station better.

On the Azau glade, we visited only one cafe, where we ate khychins and drank coffee. But these khychins were the most delicious, the biggest of those that we enjoyed all the days on vacation. The price is 100 rubles per piece. But the name of the cafe and the hotel in which it is located - I don't remember, only visually, next to the old pendulum road.

We also visited the Saklya cafe, it is located in the village. Elbrus, but only good brewed coffee went into it. And of course, they also took sandwiches and a thermos with tea for snacks with them on walks.

There are many small shops in the village, where you can buy the necessary products. But the most delicious product in the Elbrus region is local bread. It comes from Tyrnyauz from three different manufacturers. And everyone has it in their own way.

Elbrus is a wonderful place for hiking With beautiful mountains, rivers, forests,

in which there are a lot of berries and mushrooms, with delicious food and natural narzans. I want to come back here!

Day 1 - Arrival to the "Climbing Elbrus" program.
Meeting the group at the airport Mineral water... For the participants of the ascent, a group transfer will be organized from the airport Mineralnye Vody to the village of Terskol to the hotel.

We recommend that all members of the group arrive at the Mineralnye Vody airport in the morning before 14:00 (if possible, buy air tickets with an arrival in Mineralnye Vody at 12-13:00 in the afternoon) in order to use the transfer on the Mineralnye Vody - Terskol route.

Moving to the village of Terskol at the foot of Mount Elbrus takes 3.5 - 4 hours along the mountain road. Upon arrival - accommodation at a hotel in the village of Terskol.
Meeting with the guide. Dinner and overnight at the hotel.

Day 2 - Acclimatization to the waterfall and observatory. Ascent up to 3000 meters.
Breakfast at the hotel. Today is the first day of active acclimatization in the mountains. We will climb approximately up to 3000 meters along a very pleasant uncomplicated mountain trail to the most beautiful waterfall"Maiden Braids" "and further to the observatory Russian Academy Science.

After a walk and lunch, your mountain guide will help you sort out the necessary equipment to climb Mount Elbrus.

Missing equipment can be rented at the rental point.

Dinner and overnight at a hotel in the village of Terskol.

Day 3 - Climbing to the mountain shelter "Bochki".
After breakfast, transfer from the hotel to the lower station of the Elbrus pendulum cable car - "Azau". From here we ascend by cable car to the mountain shelter "Bochki". From this height, acclimatization hikes and ascent to highest point Europe - Elbrus.

If it is windy on the day of the ascent (the lift will not work), there is a fallback option for the ascent: public goods and personal belongings (backpacks) are lifted on a snowcat, people with light things climb on foot. Physical activity helps to adapt to height. You have started the process of high-altitude acclimatization.

Accommodation at the alpine shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels"). Light lunch with hot tea. Acclimatization hike to the end of the rock ridge: approximately up to an altitude of 4400-4500 meters.

For a successful ascent to the top, you need knowledge of the technique of moving on snow and ice in "crampons", you must learn how to use an ice ax and, if necessary (depending on the condition of the route), how to use a safety rope.

Your guide will conduct all the necessary activities with the group during the acclimatization hikes.

Descent to the shelter. Dinner and overnight at the shelter.

Day 4 - Acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov Rocks (4600-4800 meters).
Breakfast. Acclimatization hike to the famous Pastukhov rocks (4600 meters - 4800 meters). Here it is already high enough and close to the top. Around - the legendary Caucasian peaks. Sightseeing tour in the area.

If the weather is good on this day, you can stay a little longer on the Pastukhov Rocks: take beautiful photographs, drink hot tea from your thermoses.

On the descent, if necessary, the guide conducts classes with the group on the technique of moving on snow and ice. Practicing the technique of self-retention in the snow.

Fitting equipment (so that everything is convenient for movement).

Descent to the shelter. Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 5 - Day of rest at the shelter.
Today is a day of rest before the ascent. We recommend spending your rest day actively: it is recommended to “lower” the altitude, ie. go down to one of the Mir, Krugozor or Azau stations. You can go down on foot or by cable car. Walk for several hours and climb the Barrels again. This will be beneficial for the body.

In the evening - we collect backpacks for the ascent. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 6 - Climbing Elbrus - the highest point in Europe.
Today is the day of climbing Elbrus (weather permitting). Early rise at 2.00. Climbing at 3.00 hours.

The choice of the top (East or West) the day before, depending on the state of the group, weather, route.

The decision is made by the guide in agreement with the group. The decision is binding on all members of the group.

Elbrus summit is 8-10 hours. Participants have the opportunity to rent a snowcat to raise a group to a height of 4600-4800 meters and climb from this height on foot. Climbing on a snowcat saves time and energy, the decision on the expediency of renting a snowcat is decided by the group members collectively together with the guide after acclimatization.

If necessary, we also use the previously fixed handrail.

The deadline for reaching the summit is 13.00 (deadline - set by your guide). After this period, the whole group is obliged to start descending. The descent takes 5-6 hours.

Overnight at a mountain shelter.

Day 7 - Descent to Terskol settlement or Reserve day.
Descent on the Elbrus pendulum cable car to the station "Azau".
Transfer station "Azau" - pos. Terskol. (Also, this day can be used as a backup in case of bad weather on the previous day). Overnight in the village of Terskol.

Day 8 - Departure home.
Breakfast at the hotel. Transfer to the city of Mineralnye Vody at 9 am. It is recommended to purchase return tickets for the afternoon after 1 pm from Mineralnye Vody. Departure home.

Tour cost - 35,500 rubles.

The tour price includes:

• Meeting and transfer Mineralnye Vody - Terskol settlement and back;
• Transfer from Terskol village to Azau station and back;
• Accommodation in a hotel in the village of Terskol (3 nights);
• Breakfasts at the hotel (3 breakfasts);
• Accommodation in an alpine shelter (4 nights);
• Rental of public special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes, ice screws, carbines - for organizing handrails) and kitchen equipment (gas burners, cylinders, kitchen utensils);
• Services of professional mountain guides with experience in winter climbing (1 guide for a group of 3-4 people, 2 guides for a group of 5-8 people);
• Food during your stay at the shelter;
• Services of a cook for preparing food at the shelter;
• Payment for ascent and descent on the Elbrus pendulum cable car;
• Medical first aid kit (located at the guide);
• Registration of the group in the Ministry of Emergency Situations;
• Certificate of ascent to the highest point in Europe;

The tour price does not include:

• Lunches and dinners when staying at the hotel: 1-2 and 7 days. The village has a large selection of cafes and restaurants with national and European cuisine. Lunch or dinner at the hotel from 400 rubles;
• Hire of personal equipment for climbing Elbrus;
• Renting a snowcat on the night of ascent for lifting a group from "Barrels" to Pastukhov Rocks - from 70 Euros per person (The actual cost of renting a snowcat depends on the height of the group and the number of people in the snowcat);
• Accident insurance. Drawn up independently at will;

Required documents and equipment:

• The passport;
• Personal equipment and clothing for mountain activities;
• Personal first aid kit (adhesive plaster, headache tablets, etc.);

Reviews

Dmitry Zhigankov,
Vice President of People's Media Group

I am very grateful to the Climbing Club and personally to Lena Dzukoeva for the fact that in 2012, during the winter ascent of Elbrus, they discovered this wonderful world of mountains and mountaineering for me. I recommend all beginners, and even trained athletes, to try themselves in climbing Elbrus, with this company. Inexpensive, affordable, safe, but at the same time, sporty and professional.

The level of service and skill of the guides are quite worthy to ensure the result, comfort and safety.

I can't wait to see this unrealistically beautiful and majestic King - mountain next time. I often remember my ascents in good company and I hope to visit one of its peaks again this winter or spring!

Tatiana Bobrovskaya,
Head of the Legal Department of the Legal Departmentstate corporation "Olympstroy"

Climbing Club is a great team that will make your wildest dreams of mountains and countries come true. Many are only attracted to see Elbrus or the Himalayas with their own eyes. With them, these thoughts became reality! Our first joint ascent to Elbrus was timed to coincide with the New Year 2010! The main Caucasian ridge, hundreds of shades of white and she - main peak Eurasia 5642 m! Let's add to this the very winter with snowdrifts and New Year's mood. Departure from the Climbing Club is always not just work on oneself, it is also a very friendly atmosphere, with fun games in the evenings at high mountain shelters. But going with them is also the confidence that even novice mountain climbers will be calm under their guidance, next to real professionals who have more than one ascent behind them. The Caucasus is majestic, having seen it once, you will forever keep it in your heart. And it's not just words.

And about a year later, in the fall, we repeated the trip with them, now to Nepal. The Himalayas are called the roof of the world, yes! Everyone who has ever been in the mountains strives to see them. A very ambitious feeling from being in the mountains, higher than which. There are 10 of the eight-thousanders existing on earth, and it is the main peak of 7summits - Everest (8848 m!). These thoughts do not leave during such a difficult and emotional journey. Our ascent was on Island Peak (6165 m). If you like to feel the deepest satisfaction through overcoming difficulties, to feel the feelings of achievement and victory after the struggle - you are here! Yes, transitions at such an altitude are not a walk in the park, but the emotions experienced from changes in climatic zones, when you rise higher and higher, from breathtaking views, from Buddhist stupas high in the mountains - it's all worth the effort! Yes, and the Himalayas are just cool :) Fatigue passes quickly, memories of the mountains - never! Thank you, Climbing Club, Elbrus and the Himalayas are inextricably linked with you!

If a friend happened to be
And not a friend, and not an enemy, but - so,
If you can't tell right away,
Good or bad, -
Pull the guy to the mountains - take a chance!
Don't leave him alone
Let him be in tandem in one with you -
There you will understand who he is.

V. Vysotsky - If a friend was suddenly

Background
I have been interested in hiking for a long time, because it makes you feel completely different. There are completely different priorities, there is no urban dirt, noise and bustle, but there is nature, beauty and tranquility. This is a good opportunity to test yourself, overcome some internal barriers, find the strength to move towards something new.
Now I can no longer remember how the idea to go to the conquest of Elbrus was born, I only remember that it was not me who came up with it :) I have two very good acquaintances with whom we have repeatedly gone to the mountains of Lake Baikal and not only. Life scattered us in different cities. Alexei now lives in Moscow, Evgeny is somewhere in the region of central Siberia, and I still live in Chita. Apparently there was a desire to meet, and someone offered to conquer Elbrus. I liked the idea and somehow began to turn into reality by itself. We found people in Moscow who lead the groups, everything converged according to dates and went easily and without constraint. Alas, Eugene could not get out of work and we were left alone with Alexei.
Training
Having carefully studied the site of the climbing guys (strahu-net.com), we came to the conclusion that first of all it is necessary to start physical training. The site even lists the recommended exercises, they may not be the most complete, but you can prepare the basic muscle groups. One of the most important things in preparation was jogging, and before the hike, you need to start a continuous run for an hour. This scared me the most. I have never liked running and have never run. But the goal has been set and it is necessary to prepare. Fears were added by the right ankle, which a year and a half ago experienced an extremely unpleasant injury in the form of a tear of either ligaments or tendons while playing volleyball. I went to the doctors, did an ultrasound scan, took a course of a magnet for prophylaxis. The main part of my physical training took place at the Press Center. The guys helped to choose a scheme for a smooth and more or less gentle increase in the load on the spine and ankle. Shortly before the hike, the spine underwent a little treatment and it was scary to give him heavy loads. Having used a fairly large number of simulators, after a few weeks I felt that I was ready to start running myself. I started with a regular treadmill. Spared no expense and bought good running shoes, which I just fell in love with over time. Little by little I started to run. After about two weeks, I decided to try running 10 km. To be honest, it was not easy, but I did it. This was perhaps the first small victory. Let in the gym and on the treadmill, but victory. A week later, I was already running 10 km in the Siberian Military District on rough terrain. Running was not as scary and difficult as I thought. Since childhood, the body remembers the loads from sports, and apparently that's why it was possible to get in shape so quickly. Equipment and clothing were purchased in the Press Center, alternating between running and exercising on simulators. I already had some of the equipment, which greatly simplified the task, on the other hand, the task was complicated by the rarity of the necessary things. Suitable boots were only in the Russian extreme. I don’t know by what miracle, but there was also my size. But despite all the efforts, it turned out to be unrealistic to buy everything completely in Chita. For the purchase of everything else and minimal acclimatization to the time zone, I decided a few days before the trip to fly to Moscow, where all the rest of the equipment and the necessary 11 kg of food according to the list were bought without any problems :) I don’t know why, but only in Moscow I found out that the chosen one our route is not the easiest one available.

The first day
The train brought us to Pyatigorsk in the morning, it was foggy. Igor met us and took us to the group, most of whom arrived yesterday. On the way, we got to talking and Igor said a phrase that made us worry: "The last two groups did not rise ... the weather." When Aleksey and I were preparing for the ascent in Moscow, the weather on Elbrus was constantly monitored and it really was not acceptable for an assault: sometimes it was -22 at the summit and the wind was 80 km per hour. With a slightly shaken optimism and still full of hope, we met with the group. There were 7 people and three instructors in total. We plunged into the Gazelle and went to replenish all the missing equipment (it was possible to rent basic equipment from the guys: crampons, ice axes, helmets, trekking poles, systems, etc.). I only didn’t have cats, although if I knew how the story with rented cats would end, I wouldn’t regret the money and bought them in Moscow. Having replenished our backpacks with rented equipment and bought the missing alcohol and plastic bottles, we went to the tourist store to buy the missing warm clothes (chuni, down mittens, etc.). Driving around Pyatigorsk, I came across McDonald's, to which I was surprised, because the population of the city is even less than in Chita. In the store, I could not resist and bought a funny hat) Having finally packed the gazelle, it took us slowly to Terskol, where the third instructor was waiting for us. The journey took about four hours. The closer we got to the goal, the more imposing mountains grew along the road. In Terskol, we picked up the last member of the group, bought food for lunch, because we had no time to have lunch and went to the village of Elbrus, from where we had to go on the route. The gazelle scraped as far as the road and the narrow streets of the mountain village allowed it. After unloading all the things and general equipment, they began to collect them. The instructors voluntarily handed out general equipment: tents, bowlers, ropes. I got a rope and, like every member of the group, two gas cylinders. Having changed clothes, changed shoes and packed the rest of the equipment, we started to move.


The route began with a rather steep ascent, which after many hours of sitting was rather sad :)


At the very beginning of the route there is a narzan with very tasty water, which filled empty bottles and flasks. The weather was calm, there were clouds in the sky, some even clung to the tops of the mountains and descended into the gorge.


Soon we went into one of these clouds and visibility dropped sharply. Since we lost time in Pyatigorsk on the first day, the route was shortened, but we still had to walk and walk to the parking lot. Heavy backpacks and organisms that had not yet entered the working regime were the reason for frequent halts. There were 11 kg of food in the ryukazka, and the total weight fluctuated around 40, if not more :) The sun was striving for the horizon and the rest of the way we had to walk in the coming darkness. The first overnight stay was at the site of the shepherds' summer residence. The shepherds live in a small house with a stove and two beds. They did not flood the stove, they cooked dinner on their own burners. There was only enough space on the beds for 6 people, so we set up a tent. After supper, we immediately played a retreat, an early rise and a big transition awaited us. In general, the regime in the mountains is very much tied to the sun, especially in October. It is cold at night and it is almost impossible to get warm outside, so at night all you have to do is sleep. And the rise was ahead of the sunrise in order to make the most of the daylight hours for the transition. The attendants were even more fun - they had to prepare breakfast and melt snow to fill thermoses and bottles before the general rise.

Second day
Out of habit, I slept not very soundly, but it did not help to get up quickly and briskly :) The river flowing past was covered with ice in places, the grass was covered with frost, and the tent was a condesat.


While the group was swinging, I was able to find time for shooting, especially since the visibility was excellent and in the morning we saw Elbrus. In general, it was quite difficult to shoot: getting the camera out of the backpack every time was not an option, it got in the way on the neck, banged against the stomach and pulled the neck off. I had to put up with the neck, and the swing was reduced by hanging the camera upside down over my shoulder (therefore, I often had to shoot with an inverted camera) and pressing it with the top strap of my backpack. After breakfast and packing up our things, we set off. We walked all day long along the gorge. Lunch, when it was there, was a snack with tea, since cooking lunch takes a lot of precious time, and walking with a full stomach is not so fun :) On the way, we were in for the first surprise - we had to reach the pass without snow, but it was not there. The gorge was covered in snow and in places on the ascents we fell through to the waist. This unexpected whim of the weather slowed our progress and increased the expenditure of energy required to fight the snow. The evening of the second day came. Should have gone further, but the weather ordered differently. On the second night, all three tents were already pitched. The attendants prepare supper and go to sleep as soon as possible.

Day three
Getting up every day earlier, to get involved and go more. Breakfast, another repacking of the backpack and off you go. On the third day we came to the pass. The glacier is already visible.

Day four
Today we have to climb the pass. After having breakfast and once again repacking our backpacks we set off. The ascent to the pass was not very steep, albeit long.

The physical condition of the group is gradually emerging - someone is walking stronger, someone is lagging behind. We climbed the pass without any problems. We walked, looked, filmed. Next we were waiting for a "red hillock" and a lunch snack. It was decided not to put up tents and go further through the glacier, time allowed. Here from settlements cellular communication was breaking through. Vladimir managed to call his friends and find out the weather forecast. It was not the most comforting - the day before the planned assault, the weather was expected to deteriorate with precipitation. Immediately after lunch, Igor (the instructor) gave a small lesson on lifting and breathing techniques.

Crossing the glacier was a risky undertaking. The danger is posed by cracks in the glacier, which are not visible, they are covered with snow. But you can collapse very deeply. Therefore, the glacier walks in a bundle: if one breaks down, the rest must fall and bite into the snow. The failed one hangs on a rope and gets out along it. The group was divided into two teams of five people each. The first group was joined by two instructors and three more prepared participants. I got into the first bunch, it was nice :) The crossing is rather big and it's harder to walk in the bunch. Everyone is forced to walk at the same pace, constant concentration on the rope, no halts and accumulated general fatigue throughout the day. The crossing took about two hours, and to everyone's joy we did not find any cracks. We set up tents and began to change. In general, the difference in temperature regimes is quite significant: when the sun is shining and you are in motion, you can walk in the same thermal underwear. In Moscow, when Alexei and I were preparing for the ascent, a saleswoman in the store sold me very good thermal underwear, called x-bionic. I would like to say a big thank you to the whole store and to that woman, they advised and sold very good things. In this thermal underwear, I basically walked. But as soon as the sun disappeared behind the horizon, the temperature dropped before our eyes. If, at the same time, you stop moving, you will freeze instantly. Therefore, after setting up the tents, the ritual of preparation for the night regimen began, which consisted of changing into dry warm clothes. I appreciated all the advantages of high-quality warm clothing and equipment, which is really better not to save on serious hikes. A long bought sleeping bag bask chellendger (extreme -35) delighted literally every night like the bask Alaska down jacket.
Meanwhile, the attendants quickly prepared dinner, everyone ate and hid in the tents. The evening was warm enough and the wind was not very strong. I finally made up my mind to shoot at night. I didn't want to get up right at night, so I decided to just wait for complete darkness, since we didn't have to wait long, we had dinner after sunset. We managed to make several more or less successful night shots. Although the wind was not strong, at exposures under 30 seconds in jerks, it managed to move the camera. Having played enough, I rather hid in the tent and went to bed.

I have not seen anything like this: it is the shadow of Elbrus on the horizon.

Day five
The attendants prepare breakfast, general wake-up, breakfast, repacking of backpacks. Everything is already becoming familiar. Today our goal is to reach the assault camp. The ascent is already going along the lava flow on the eastern slope of Elbrus. The trek is not very big, and without any special difficulties we reached the height of the assault camp - 4300 meters. The camp is broken, and here we have to live for several days. The crater of the volcano is already clearly visible, the volcanic rock underfoot looks unusual and bizarre. During the entire journey to the assault camp, the weather was on our side, worried only about the forecast received on the red hillock. The visibility in the assault camp was amazing, for hundreds of kilometers and the view of the Caucasian ridge was simply breathtaking. At this altitude, a lack of oxygen is already felt. At night, when you roll over, you feel your heart begin to beat.

Day six
An acclimatization hike to an altitude of 5000 is planned for today. Until that day, I had no complaints about my well-being, but this morning I was somehow uncomfortable. There is practically no appetite, food does not fit. Somehow I forced myself to eat half of the serving. Drinking tea and something sweet improved my well-being, and I was ready to go. Alexander (instructor), before going out, conducts training in walking in crampons and using an ice ax. Finally, a light exit without a heavy backpack. With you only a small photo backpack with a camera, tea and snacks. I forgot to tell you about photographic equipment. I took one D800E carcass with me, two batteries and just one 24-70 lens. The kit is certainly not very light, but high quality and versatile. Although the D800E is not adapted to the harsh conditions of shooting, it coped with the task without problems. We reached the planned height at about lunchtime. The group stretched out a lot and it turned out that one of the participants was walking hard and most likely would not reach the height. No changes in health were observed, everything was like in an assault camp. We had a snack, sat down, rested, I filmed an even more impressive view, and we proceeded to the descent. Descending, we got a little lost and went on a steep descent with a crumb, overlooking the ice. We overcame the stones, and passed the ice section for acceleration and safety net on the rope. In the evening, the day of the assault is being discussed in the camp for the umpteenth time. According to the plan, there should be a day of rest between the acclimatization ascent and the assault, but the forecast for the day of the assault was not very good and he could disrupt the ascent. There were still days left to wait for the weather, but in the mountains usually bad weather does not end in one day, and most likely, if it deteriorates, it would not give us the slightest chance to conquer the summit. Disputes were about the cancellation of the day of rest and the assault on the next day after acclimatization. The idea is quite real, but the level of training of the group varied and many might simply not get it. Volodya was able to clarify the forecast, and it turned out to be good for us. Forecasters promised good weather for the originally planned day of the assault. It was decided to rest tomorrow and go to the assault on October 13th.

Seventh day
Rest today. You could sleep as much as you like, but the body is already accustomed to getting up early, and sleep on the stones is rather harsh, you don't really lie around. After getting enough sleep, everyone slowly began to crawl out of the tents. We made breakfast and ate. The diet was standard and did not indulge in variety. Today breakfast was more like lunch - buckwheat with stew. Sometimes we cooked soup, it was a small celebration. You could arrange it more often, but usually there was just not enough time. There is no water at the height and in order to cook something you need to melt snow or ice. This procedure is quite long and requires a lot of gas. Most of all I was pleased with the assortment of sweets for tea :)
It was very unusual to rest. No need to collect anything, go nowhere. All chaotically moved around the camp, forming more and more groups to discuss various topics. They played cards, admired the view, discussed the assault. Clouds have been added to the usual look. They were below us and very beautifully covered the lower mountains and gorges. For half a day, they slowly melted the snow and filled bottles and thermoses with water and tea for the assault.
Dinner was earlier today, the reason for this was the early lights out, which in turn was due to the need to sleep before getting up early. It was decided to storm it in two groups. The first group left an hour and a half earlier, and according to the plan, the second group was to catch up with them along the way. The first group was scheduled to leave at 2:30 am, the second at 4:00 am. Such an early exit dictated a long way up and the weather, which usually spoils at the top at lunchtime, and before that time it was already necessary to start the descent. With excitement and thoughts of an assault, everyone went to bed.

Day eight
October 13, the day of the assault. I was in the second, stronger group. Wake up at 3:30. There was no time to cook something for breakfast, and we ate sausage and cheese cut in the evening. They drank tea poured into thermos in advance. Assault backpacks with all the essentials had already been assembled. I had to dress warmly, the night was cold, and you can't go in one thermo. On my feet I put on warm thermal underwear and my favorite soft shell pants, on top - thermal underwear, fleece and down jacket. Everyone immediately put on crampons and systems so as not to waste time on the road. 4 am, leaving. In the distance, on the mountain, five fireflies are visible - the first group. The darkness is complete, the moon has long gone behind the mountain, the sky is clear and very beautiful stars. We walked non-stop for a long time, a day of rest allowed us to recuperate well. At about six in the morning it began to dawn. It was very beautiful.

You could see how we were catching up with the first group. On the radio, they transmitted that they had reached 5000 and sat down to rest. There was very little left before them. After 10 minutes, the radio said that because of the cold, the first group continued to move. After about 20 minutes we caught up with them. We stood at a difficult ice section, which had to be traversed. They began to fix the railing.


In the meantime, having reached 5000, Pasha felt that he could not go further and began to descend with Alexander. The assault was continued by eight people. Having overcome a difficult section, we removed the railing and quickly reached the next place where there was a need for a rope. This time, having overcome the obstacle, we did not remove the rope, the summit was very close and there were no more difficult sections. It was getting harder and harder to walk, there was not enough oxygen, and I wanted to rest after every ten steps.

Igor urged everyone on, he said that you can't stand, we waste time, and the longer we stand, the more we get tired. All silently, without haste, continued to crawl up. Soon I had a second wind. I don’t know where this concept came from and how it works at the physical level, but the effect is very unusual. It suddenly became easy to walk, the desire to stop disappeared and the walking speed increased. I was the first to climb the summit from the group, following our snow leopard named Sergei, who, at the age of 61, had been on Elbrus more than 80 times. It was October 13, about 1 pm. The eastern summit of Elbrus was conquered, I stood at an altitude of 5621 meters. The opening view was striking in its scale and beauty.

Gradually the whole group gathered. We congratulated each other, everyone took pictures and rejoiced at this victory. Elbrus greeted us with surprisingly good weather, there was almost no wind at the summit, but the snow, turned into ice with bizarre shapes by the wind, reminded of the severity of this height. We had a snack, admired the landscape and the western peak, which was very close and towered over us by 21 meters. In the mountains, the weather can change instantly and very dramatically. Without waiting for surprises, we began our descent. Almost immediately Aleksey (from Murmansk, there were two Aleksey in the group) behaved rather strangely and after about five minutes he was practically unable to continue the descent on his own. Here she is, the miner. As Alexey himself later wrote after numerous discussions, it was cerebral edema. Having fastened it to the rope, we began to lower it down, it was necessary to drop the height as soon as possible. But the heavy terrain of snow, stones and ice did not allow to descend quickly. Almost the entire group took part in its descent. Almost the entire descent I was leading Alexei by the arm, encouraging and checking his condition. At the same time, 5 people were involved in the descent: two lead under the arms, two belay with a rope from behind and one helps to change the rope. After some time, we realized that he did not remember how he got into this situation. The drop in altitude, as expected, was good for Alexei - he was returning strength. But at times I was visited by some strange feeling, I somehow perceived reality in a different way, as if something had split in two in me, I spoke and at the same time saw the situation from the outside, hearing myself. I don’t know what it was. Maybe fatigue, or maybe lack of oxygen. During the descent, we got in touch with Alexander, who was already in the camp, by radio and asked him to climb up for help. We continued our descent, and Sasha began to climb with all his might. When we met, it was decided that he would take the group members not involved in the descent of Alexei and would rather take them to the camp. Alexei, meanwhile, felt better and better, but could not walk on his own. On one of the steep ice slopes, Alexei, with an awkward movement, hooked his cat to mine, and chained it to the ice. I could not free my legs, and by inertia we continued to move. Despite the low speed, the balance could not be maintained, and all three of us collapsed onto the ice. I was the first to fall and the fastest I understood what was happening, and already in flight, that I had strength in a hoarse voice, I screamed "breakdown". The guys on the insurance worked instantly. We have not traveled a meter. After some seconds, we were lying on the slope, held by a rope. I held on to Alexei's leg, and in spite of his condition he grabbed my hand and pulled me towards him. Having freed my legs, I got up, we lifted Alexey, assessed the situation, and continued moving. My trousers were torn by the cats a little and as it turned out already in Terskol there were bruises on my thigh from the blow of the cat. It was already getting dark. Soon we reached the snowy slope and there were no difficult sections to the camp, all that was left was to monotonously take step by step. Fatigue no longer allowed even to talk, walked in silence. The radio broke the calm. Alexander and the guys deviated from the path and went too close to the crater. They asked for help to get out of there. It turned out that they are above us. Igor went to the rescue. The slope was not so steep, but Alexey already felt confident enough, and the four of us went. A flashlight appeared in the darkness, which shone from the assault camp, showing us the direction. Pasha tried it. We soon reached the camp. Pasha prepared dinner and brewed tea. We pounced on the food. The radio said that Igor found the guys, and they got out safely and went to the camp. We saw the light of their flashlights on the slope. Pasha told how they were waiting for us in the camp and were worried. Thank you so much for dinner. After drinking a mug of tea, we went to our tent, we were no longer strong. Without waiting for the guys to come down, we passed out.

Day nine
They didn't get up early in the morning, everyone was resting after a hard ascent. Aleksey felt well in the morning, the miner let him go. After breakfast, everyone began to get ready, today we started the descent. In one day we dropped the altitude gained in three days. We walked fast enough and for a long time. We also crossed the glacier in tandem. We crossed the red hillock and went down from the pass. After walking for several hours along the gorge, we set up a camp.

Day ten
There was no more snow in the Transformed Gorge, which prevented us from going up.

Today, a little after lunch, according to the plan, we had to go to the village. Below the gorge, stunning landscapes opened up. The camera was turned on quite often. The big crossover of the previous day did not go unnoticed. Many had calluses on their feet and it hurt to walk. As planned, after lunch we went to the village of Elbrus. About 20 minutes later the same gazelle picked us up and slowly drove us to Terskol. Everything seemed wild and unusual. I couldn’t believe that the water could just run out of the tap, especially hot :) The first dinner was just a holiday. Soup, bread, butter, dumplings. Products that could not have been on the hike. We appreciated the Caucasian hospitality. I had no idea about its scale.
The hike was over, there was a day in Terskol and the way home.

Conclusion
In general, I am very satisfied. Another peak has been conquered highest mountain in Europe, a member of the Seven Summits Club. An altitude that I have not yet been. Proved to myself that I can do it. I was able to prepare, get in good physical shape, and began to run. A small victory over yourself. What's next, I don't know. Some time will pass and the mountains will call again ...

P. S. More photos can be found