What are the coordinates of the cave city of eski kermen. Eski-Kermen cave city - an ancient fortress on the top of the Crimean plateau

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There are regions that are rich in historical, architectural and cultural values. And there is a region that is valuable in itself - this is Crimea. In fact, the Crimean Peninsula is a continuous nature reserve. It is difficult to take a dozen steps here without bumping into a historical monument. One of these is Eski-Kermen, a city-bastion carved into the rocks.

Eski-Kermen Citadel: birth, greatness and death

Actually, rock towns- not uncommon for Crimea. Shrouded in secrets, permeated with mysticism, they, such an impression, still keep the shadows of their inhabitants - Taurians, Alans, Goths and Hellenes, Scythians and Sarmatians. This is especially acute in Eski-Kermen, one of the largest cave cities.

The fortress on a flat, high plateau well protected by rocks was apparently built by the Byzantines at the beginning of the 6th century to protect Chersonesos-Korsun. However, this fortification hardly played a large strategic role, and some time later, historians say, it was captured by the Khazars.

However, the citadel on the plateau gradually expanded, and with it the city grew. At the beginning of the XII century, according to archaeologists, the Old Fortress (this is what the Crimean Tatar word "Eski-Kermen" means) stretched over an area of ​​8.5 hectares and was inhabited by over two thousand people. The wide stone "tabletop" was built up by parallel residential quarters, between which carts scurried along fairly spacious streets. The remains of the cathedral pulpits convince that there was not just a priest in Eski-Kermen, but a hierarch, a bishop. In the same years, the basilica was expanded and significantly completed. Everything suggests that the city in the mountains was an important administrative center.

The settlement was surrounded by powerful natural walls, reliable gates, "exit" gates, towers, battle platforms and casemates. Remains of an irrigation system excavated in the vicinity and terraces with wild grapes prove that the economy of the area was based on agriculture. By the way, ancient vines, having fallen into the hands of Crimean breeders, have become a valuable source for new grape varieties.

the cave city of Eski-Kermen - the temple of Donators

Several times, life in the walled city dwindled to a tiny, smoldering spark. This happened in 1299, when the troops of the fierce Nogai, who avenged his son killed in the Cafe, destroyed Eski-Kermen to the ground. Not immediately, but the city was revived after bloody vengeance. However, not for long: in 1399, after the storming of the Horde of Khan Edigey, life in the cave settlement turned to stone completely, merging with the silent rocks.

"Eski-Kermen" - grottoes and tombs

Today the Old Fortress is a museum under heaven. Firstly, here you can see the caves, which in the early Middle Ages were filled with donkeys and goats, pithos and amphoras with wine, slings and bows, sheep skins and tiles. There are almost 350 such grottoes in the ghost town.

Residential buildings on sites excavated by archaeologists date back to a later time. They were two-storeyed, strong, and their inhabitants, as now established, perished from the fire. In some basements, the researchers found skeletons, including children - apparently, this is where the townspeople were hiding, hoping to survive the scorching element.

Secondly, you can wander around the ruins of the basilica, built at the same time as the first fortification. It was rectangular, strict in shape, with three faceted, semicircular apses (protrusions below the main building) and was divided into three parts - naves. The Polish envoy and cartographer Martin Bronevsky, who visited this place in 1578, wrote that the basilica was decorated with marble and serpentine columns. It must be said that the basilica "died" before the settlement - its main part turned into a cemetery, and a chapel was built in one of the naves.

Tourists are interested in the siege well with its attributes - a steep and deep staircase of 84 steps, a 20-meter tunnel and a mine where water was accumulated in case of a long blockade. The water was supplied by a source "intercepted" by the builders of the fortifications. This well is a real artifact: nothing like it was found in any Byzantine fortress built in the Crimea to protect it from nomads.

"Eski-Kermen" - altars and frescoes

Finally, the ruins of sanctuaries beckon guests of Crimea. For example, the Church of the Three Horsemen, carved into the stone ridge at the base of the fortress. This sacred building has two entrances, the space between which was illuminated from two windows. There are two graves in the temple - a small one, which must be for children, and a larger one. Near them there is a recess for candlesticks and a recess with a cross.

Everything suggests that these burials were the subject of worship. At the "adult" grave, there is a fresco that gave the name to the temple: George the Victorious, killing the serpent, and two horsemen on the left and right, one of them with a child behind. Historians believe that the fresco was created in honor of some kind of battle - so important for the townspeople that some of the participants in it, probably dead, were ranked among the saints. In any case, both the temple and the fresco were created in the period - the end of the XII century - when the Tatars stuck into the Crimea, like hungry wolves into a deer straying from the herd.

Another temple, more ancient, was carved at the same time as the first fortification at the main gate. It had three entrances, an honorary bishop's chair and a baptismal font. Tombs have been carved into the floor. The shape of the building is so unusual and asymmetrical that it has puzzled more than one generation of Crimean residents: the Tatars, for example, called this place the "Judgment Seat", apparently believing that the building served not only for prayers, but also for other purposes. Unfortunately, the frescoes that decorated the walls of this temple have not survived. But the painting of another church, the Assumption, although partially, is still visible. Residents of Eski-Kermen set up this chapel ... in a former winery. More precisely: at first it was a grain pit, then grapes were pressed here ... And then the premises were adapted for a church.

This, of course, is not all that reveals ancient city curious tourists. Towers, lookouts, staircases carved into limestone, loopholes and embrasures ... Here every stone, every fragment of ancient ceramics fascinates and whispers its true story - about the old times and former people.

Valley of Givers

Very close to dead city the valley of Cherkez-Kermen stretches, where there was another temple - Donators. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, it excites the minds with its preserved fresco depicting the liturgy of the Holy Grail. The "name" of the church is obviously connected with its patrons, because "donator" in Latin means "donor". The famous Soviet historian Nikolai Repnikov, who carried out excavations in the Crimea, believed that the Donator Church together with the valley and the fortress were once a single complex. The same scientist described the numerous frescoes for which the temple was famous - all of them, according to him, were distinguished by the highest skill, in which the old school of Constantinople shone through. Alas, almost nothing remained of the drawings, but on the place where the shrine once stood, today sometimes liturgies are held.

Internet cave

At the "foot" of Eski-Kermen there is a camp site of the same name. This is a whole ensemble of comfortable and, at the same time, exotic vacation: the hotel offers rooms of varying comfort, and for lovers of exclusive - a cave room in the medieval style. Inside the estate there is also a parking lot, a cafe with home cooking, a zoo corner where children are willing to play, there is a bathhouse, camping, horses for walks and reservoirs for fishing. To fish on the territory of the base "from dawn to dawn", that is, all day, you need to pay 1000 rubles. The catch, and the ponds are abundant in carp, silver carp and crucian carp, are allowed to be personally grilled on the grill and eaten in a gazebo in the fresh air. Just above the fortress, in the mountains, a small sparkles clear lake, where you can also try your luck with a fishing rod in hand (200 rubles per day of fishing).

Eski-Kermen on the map of Crimea

Road to ghost town

From Simferopol to tourist base, and also get to Eski-Kermen himself as follows:

• by regular bus Simferopol-Zalesnoe to the village of Krasny Mak;
• by regular bus Simferopol-Kholmovka to the final stop or to Red Poppy;
• by train Simferopol-Sevastopol to the village of Front (station "1509 km"), and from there - by bus 45 to Krasny Poppy or Kholmovka.
• From the named villages, following the signs, you need to walk about 6 kilometers.

From Sevastopol you can get there:
- by train Sevastopol-Simferopol to Front, and then - by the above-mentioned bus route 45.

To get from Yalta like this:

to Red Poppy - by regular bus Yalta-Bakhchisarai, and then on foot, according to road signs.

Departure from Bakhchisarai:

• by bus Bakhchisarai-Zalesnoe to Red Poppy;
• by bus Bakhchisarai-Kholmovka to the final destination or to Red Poppy.

The easiest way, of course, is to go to these protected places by car: from Bakhchisarai you need to get to the village of Tankovy (this is about 14 kilometers), and then drive to the Red Poppy (another 4 kilometers).
Before the Red Poppy you need to turn right and drive up to the village of Kholmovka. Before him - turn left, approach the quarry, turn right and proceed to the hedge of the farm. At this point, you should turn left again, into the valley, from which the legendary and majestic Eski-Kermen will rise towards you.

However, people who choose public transport and they will stomp on foot for several kilometers, they will not regret it for a minute: the landscapes around are so delightful that the road will seem like a journey into a fairy tale.

Last year I visited the cave city of Chufut-Kale. This year, in the very heat, we went to conquer the cave city of Eski-Kermen. If a visit to the first one last year was combined with an excursion to the Khan's Palace in Bakhchisarai, this time the day was dedicated only to Eski-Kermen. Moreover, part of the way, about 6 km, we traveled on foot.

The route was standard - take a minibus to Artbukhta, take a sea ferry to the North side and from Nakhimov Square by bus to the village of Krasny Mak, from where it is already on foot to get to the cave town of Eski-Kermen.

As a result of the trip, I got quite a lot of photographs, and I brought some of them into separate narratives:

Eski-Kermen was founded on a hard-to-reach plateau at the beginning of the 6th century; according to the assumption, the Scythian-Sarmatians and existed until the end of the XIV century. Its name in translation from Tatar means "Old Fortress" - it is one of the most picturesque cave cities. It is located in the southwestern part mountain Crimea, 6 km south of the village of Krasny Mak, on the table mountain plateau, elongated along the axis.

Cave city Eski-Kermen was a first-class fortress for its time. Sheer cliffs are practically inaccessible, and in the upper reaches of the crevices, along which one could climb into the city, battle walls towered. The defense system included well-defended gates and exit gates, ground towers and cave casemates.

Eski-Kermen was a large center of craft and trade, but the basis of its economy was agriculture - viticulture, horticulture, horticulture. In the vicinity of Eski-Kermen, the remains of an irrigation system were found, traces of terraced areas with feral vines. For a number of years, these vines have been studied by employees of the Crimean Agricultural Institute, trying to restore grape varieties that have lived for hundreds of years. Some of them are already used as breeding material for the development of new grape varieties.

We leave the bus, our journey begins in the village of Krasny Mak. The village is surrounded by a picturesque area: on the left is a valley with outlier mountains. For example, Uzun-Tarla - rises far to the left of the road to Eski-Kermen.

On the right is a rocky wall with the outliers of Bash-Kai.

Then the road goes across the field. Although it has rained recently, the grass on the field is beginning to dry up, and there is a huge number of large grasshoppers and other living creatures jumping from under their feet.

The sun bakes mercilessly, and I want to find some kind of shadow, lie down and rest until evening in the cool under a light breeze. But this is only the beginning of the journey, there is a whole day ahead, filled with interesting adventures.

Interactive panorama of the field and the road.

But now the long road in the heat is drawing to a close, and we come to the goal of our journey. You can already see the slopes of Zangurma-Kobalar - a ridge adjacent to the cave city.

With characteristic grotto grottoes on the slopes.

And here Eski-Kermen appeared, or rather its northern extremity. The main life on it still took place in the southern part.

I found such a scheme on the Internet. We approached the city from the north (from above)

The Northern Sentinel Complex is located here. Hence the most good view into the distance, as can be seen in the following photos.

Northern sentinel complex, 6th - 13th centuries

In the northern part of the Eski-Kermen plateau, there is a gate, fortified with battle platforms and casemates. Opposite it there is a small outlier rock, in which the Northern sentinel complex is located. At the foot of the outlier begins a staircase carved into the rock (2 marches, 33 steps), leading to the surface of the rock, surrounded by a wooden fence. Along the course of the staircase, there are two rooms carved into the rock: the lower one was used as a burial vault, the upper one as a sentry.

From the upper platform of the complex, the northern approaches to the city and the entire area of ​​the foothills were visible. During the Middle Ages, the Northern Sentinel Complex was connected to the main massif of Eski-Kermen by wooden bridges.

In this "stone with holes" there was always a guard who guarded the approaches from the north and in case of danger had to give a signal.

At the top of the Northern Patrol Complex. South facing towards the city.

A piece of guard caves and Mount Kaya-Bash.

Our "sentinels" wave their hands from the gatehouse.

Again the view to the south - a pine tree huddled on one of the rocks on the side. And it grows hanging on a vertical rock.

Remains of a medieval tower with a gate - Kyz-Kule castle (Maiden's Tower)

It seems that the tower is nearby and can be easily and quickly reached. In fact, on Kyz-Kul, you can climb only an ancient hiking trail with steps carved into the rock from another gorge located to the west of the tower. To do this, you need to go down from the northern sentinel complex to the saddle and turn left, carefully going down a ledge, in places with traces of artificial cuts, a slope. Then, on the way, go to the former village of Krepkoy (now there are koshars here). From here, from the gorge, you can climb to the castle.

A panorama of how the north side was seen from the top of the sentinel complex. You can zoom in and out of the image.

More view of the nearby mountain

And to the valley. We came along this road.

There is a deep crevice between the Northern Sentinel Complex and the main part. And while I was photographing her, a strong wind took away and dragged down my cap, I did not even have time to pick it up. It was also useless to run after her - there was a many-meter cliff ahead. Fortunately, Valerka also noticed how she fell, he was closer to the place of the fall, on the path under the patrol complex and found her. Otherwise, I could easily have caught sunstroke.

But enough to stamp on the Northern sentinel complex, the main part is still further. Let's walk along the path along the rocky slope

And here is one of the first cave structures. This is how a cave made in a rock looks from the inside. there was a door in the place of the opening, and, probably, the window was closed by something. And a round hole in the ceiling - probably to draw out the smoke from the hearth.

The next object is what allowed the city to remain impregnable. long time- siege well.

Siege well, VI - IX centuries

The siege well is located in the northern part of the eastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The structure is a staircase descent (6 flights, 84 steps), ending with a capturing gallery, which leads to a cave where there was a natural source of water. The total water supply of the well was about 75 cubic meters. Water delivery to the surface was carried out manually. Each descent march ended with a platform where the water carriers could disperse.

Apparently, the siege well was built simultaneously with the fortress in the 6th century. The researchers associate the termination of the functioning of the structure with the deliberate destruction of the well by the Khazars. The siege well was used as a source of water for the population of Eski-Kermen in the event of a long siege. In peacetime, rainwater was used, as well as water that entered the city through a ceramic water supply from the Bilderan gully.

I did not dare to go down below the guardroom (this is just one flight of stairs), further the steps were worn out, broke and more and more resembled a children's slide, along which one can easily slide down on the priest, but it is difficult to climb back. The next photo is a view from one of the caves with steps.

Part of the city with multi-level caves and stairs between them

A few more photos of the city outside

And from within

South-east again

A few more views of the city

View of the neighboring Chupak-Syrt rock through a telephoto lens.

And again stones dug up by man-made caves.

Here I decided to light up

An interesting cave that resembles a hole - a hobbit's dwelling. With a round window and a round entrance. It is a pity, the entrance was blocked by a tree that grew here.

This stone was once led by a wooden bridge over an abyss. Here in that hole on the right.

Large caves were reinforced from the inside by stone columns.

Along the walls, special niches were equipped for arranging beds in them. In the rooms of the guards, the window was usually arranged at the head of such a bed.

Not all caves have survived the struggle with time. This one, for example, had its roof collapsed.

North view from the southern part of Eski-Kermen. Somewhere there, at the end of the ridge, the Northern Sentinel Complex.

Here we find ourselves in an interesting structure - a cave temple. The frescoes in it were chipped off by vandals, but some of their traces are still visible.

Temple of the Assumption, XIII century.

The Temple of the Assumption is located in the eastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The complex has a rectangular shape (5.7 × 3.25 m). The altar part is located to the right of the entrance. A niche was carved into the north-western wall, in which a wine press (rattan) was installed. There is a small water tank in the center. Remains of fresco paintings have been preserved on the walls of the temple. In the altar part there are images of the scene of the Annunciation, the baby Jesus with the angels, the Mother of God - Hodegetria. On the northeastern wall there was a stage of the Presentation, a section of the wall opposite the altar was occupied by a large composition of the Assumption.

The construction of the church dates back to the 13th century, after the death of the city the premises were apparently adapted for economic needs.

On the left side of the frame is the entrance to the temple, on the right - a mountain range.

Round hole-chimney.

The next part is the main protective and main inhabited building of the city - the complex of the Main City Gates

Complex of the Main City Gates, VI - XIII centuries

WITH south side On the Eski-Kermen plateau, a wheel road, carved into the rock, leads to the Main City Gate, winding in three marches. The upper march of the road was fortified by proteikhism (an advanced defensive wall), from which the rocky foundation was preserved. The opening of the main gate was carved into the rock, above the gate there was a rectangular tower, from which the rock cuttings were preserved. The main street of the city began outside the gates. A number of cave structures for various purposes are located in the area of ​​the wheel road and the Main City Gate: battle casemates, churches, tombs.

Outside the gate, in the eastern part of the passage, there is a cave temple "Judgment". The complex has an asymmetrical layout (15 × 17.5 × 2 m). Three doorways lead to the temple, provided with grooves for wooden door frames. The ceiling rests on 4 columns carved into the rock. The altar part, apparently, was painted with frescoes. The construction of the temple dates back to the XI-XII centuries, to the XIII century. the complex was connected to the chapel in the southeastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau and acquired a modern look.

For many centuries, loaded carts have walked along these tracks, delivering food up and the results of the work of artisans down.

Temple "Judgment". Vitya imagined himself to be either a supreme leader or a priest and is trying to sort out the situation - who is to be executed and who is to be pardoned.

The time is already approaching evening, the last bus from the Red Poppy is leaving soon, it's time to go down. On the way, you come across a temple of the Three Horsemen, hollowed out in a freestanding stone.

Temple of the Three Horsemen, XIII century.

The Three Horsemen Temple is located on the southeastern slope of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The church, carved into a freestanding boulder, has the shape of a trefoil (5.5 x 3.5 x 2.7 m). The altar part is separated from the rest of the room by the rocky base of the altar barrier, on which the wooden parts of the iconostasis were placed. A bench has been carved along the walls of the temple. In the floor there are 2 graves, an adult and a child. on north wall there is a fresco depicting three horsemen with halos, in cuirass and with fluttering cloaks. The middle one hits the serpent with a spear. The one closest to the altar holds the figure of a boy on the horse's rump. Above the image there is an inscription in Greek: "The holy martyrs of Christ were cut and painted for the salvation of the soul and forgiveness of sins ...".

Several interpretations of the saints depicted on the fresco are known: Theodore Stratilat, Theodore Tiron and George the Victorious; George in different scenes; George and local soldiers; George, Theodore Stratilat and Dmitry Solunsky. The construction of the temple of the "three horsemen" dates back to the 13th century.

The last glance into the opposite part of the valley and move to the place where the inspection starts.

We see off a group of cyclists who arrived in the cave city almost simultaneously with us, listened to a guided tour and is now leaving.

We have to quickly, quickly, sometimes even running, move towards the bus. Time is close, we may not be in time. And the sun beats down only slightly weaker than at noon.

But now the familiar Red Poppy Mountains. We made it in time. The bus did not show us its tail, there was even a couple of minutes to sit and finish the supply of liquid. By the way, each of us drank about 3 liters of water during this trip.

Cave city Eski-Kermen (Russia) - description, history, location. The exact address, phone, website. Reviews of tourists, photos and videos.

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Cave cities form a huge layer in the history and culture of the Crimean region. Each of them is shrouded in many secrets and legends, each of them breathes with mysticism and centuries of life of ancient people. Among dozens of such settlements, one of the most outstanding is Eski-Kermen - large city where many traces of the past have been preserved. Its distinctive features are not only size, but also purpose and degree of study.

A bit of history

According to scientists, the first settlement in the area of ​​the cave city was built in the 6th century by the Byzantines and served as a fortress. The reason for this was the ideal location, because the city stands on a rock and is surrounded by sheer walls up to 70 m high. Researchers believe that the fortress was originally small, but by the 12th century it had acquired truly impressive dimensions.

At the peak of development, the city of Eski-Kermen was inhabited by 2,000 people, but already in the 12th century it was practically destroyed by the invaders of Khan Nogai from the Golden Horde.

After the first attacks, they tried to restore the city and revive the old life in it, but a new attack - already by Khan Edigey - did not allow these plans to come true. Since then, the settlement remained abandoned for a long time, and by now it has become a popular tourist attraction.

What's interestnig

The main interest in the ancient city is the caves: firstly, there are many of them, like nowhere else, and secondly, they were used as defensive structures, barns, living quarters and cattle corrals (in other cave cities of Crimea, caves had a sacred meaning ).

Another interesting object is a 30-meter siege well. On the stairs inside it you can go down to the very bottom, where even today water collects. Archaeologists have also found a Byzantine basilica with ancient frescoes, which, unfortunately, are rapidly deteriorating.

If you walk along the old city streets, you can see that life once was in full swing here: traces of carts carved in stone by wheels, the remains of a gate that locked the entrance to the settlement, a loophole from which archers attacked the advancing enemy, and grain pits for storing food.

A panorama of the Chatyr-Dag plateau opens from one of the cliffs of the city.

Note that the cave city of Eski-Kermen is part of the Bakhchisarai Historical, Cultural and Archaeological Museum-Reserve. If you wish, you can order a tour of the local expanses on a donkey.

Practical information

The city is located in the south-west of Crimea, in the Bakhchisarai region, near the village of Kholmovka. You can get to it by bus from Kholmovka, as well as by bus or shuttle taxi from Yalta, Sevastopol and Bakhchisarai. Web site

It is also possible to get there by car through the village of Krasny Mak. GPS coordinates: 44 ° 36'40 "N; 33 ° 44'22" E.

Ticket prices: 100 RUB - for adults, 50 RUB - for children, the excursion must be paid additionally - 100 RUB. Prices on the page are for October 2018.

Photo: Eski-Kermen cave city

A significant part of the Crimean mountains is composed of soft rocks. This contributed to the formation of a large number karst caves... The people who built artificial grottoes... Thus, several cave cities appeared on the Crimean peninsula. One of the most interesting is called Eski-Kermen.

Old fortress

In the Crimean Tatar language, the word "eski" literally means "old", and "kermen" means "fortress". The cave metropolis is located in the south-west of Crimea, two dozen kilometers from Bakhchisarai. By the standards of antiquity, it really was a metropolis, since the area of ​​urban development reached about eight hectares. With a width of 170 meters, the settlement was just over a kilometer long. The city was built on a plateau 30 meters high.

Photo: The ancient city is located on an impregnable rock

Currently, Eski-Kermen is protected area... It is part of the exposition of the Bakhchisarai Museum. The villages of Ternovka, Kholmovka, Zalesnoe and Krasny Mak are located nearby. From them begin hiking trails to the reserved plateau. Just five kilometers from Eski-Kermen there is another ancient cave city called Mangup-Kale.

From time immemorial

In the VI century AD, the Byzantines firmly settled in these places. They also built a fortification on the mountain. For almost three hundred years, the settlement was on the sidelines. Its population actually consisted only of the soldiers of the garrison. And only in the 10th century there was an upward trend. Over the next two hundred years, the number of residents increased to 2 thousand people. The construction of the vast plateau was carried out systematically. The correct network of streets and blocks appeared on the mountain.

Photo: Mountain range riddled with caves and passages

The flourishing of the city was caused by a change in its status. The fact is that in Eski-Kermen they opened Cathedral where the ruling bishop served. Proof of this is the pulpit, which archaeologists found in the temple near the central gate. During this period, the ancient basilica was significantly expanded and rebuilt. A rarity for medieval town there were relatively wide streets. They even went on carts. This is evidenced by the ruts from the wheels and the footprints from the hooves, carved in stone for hundreds of years.

A crushing blow to the well-being of Eski-Kermen was dealt by the Golden Horde ruler Nogai. In 1299, his army captured the city, ravaged and destroyed it. It was not possible to restore its former greatness even many years after the departure of the invaders. In 1399, the defeat was completed by the Mongol army under the leadership of the temnik Edigei. Temnik in the Golden Horde commanded a detachment of 10 thousand soldiers. It turns out that the number of enemies was many times greater than the number of inhabitants.

Photo: Traces of carts

This was the last battle of the cave citadel, after which they never tried to rebuild it. Only the satellite town of Cherkes-Kermen remained, located on the northern outskirts of Eski-Kermen, at the foot of the mountain. Small ancient settlement existed almost until the end of the 20th century. In the USSR, it was known as the village of Krepkoye. This locality having ancient history, was abolished in 1977.

Thriller set

Even today, Eski-Kermen makes an impressive impression. Sometimes it seems that this is not an archaeological site, but a giant set for a science fiction film. Some cave complexes resemble huge skulls with black empty eye sockets, others look like medieval knight's helmets. Stairs leading to nowhere; roads with ruts, as if carved in stone; mysterious tunnels leading to the dungeons are Eski-Kermen. The alien panoramas that open from the plateau are no less impressive.

Photo: Sometimes it seems that this is not a city, but the scenery for a fantastic film

In total, there are about 350 natural and artificial caves in the city. There are about fifty more in the vicinity. This is truly a real cave metropolis. Some grottoes are spread over several floors. Some of the caves were used as fortifications, others as temples, and others for residential and economic purposes, they kept food, kept cattle. All of them appeared in the period from the XII to the XIII century.

The plateau is over a kilometer long. The buildings occupy only a part of the territory. A typical city dweller's house had two floors and was surrounded by a stone fence. The first floor was used for household needs, on the second they lived. Crafts were developed in the city - there were blacksmiths, potters, jewelers, masons, tanners. Winemaking flourished - niches with drains, which are called tarpan, have been preserved. Wine fermented in them.

Man made miracle

Acquaintance with Eski-Kermen begins with the temple of the Three Horsemen. It is located on the road leading to the plateau. It is difficult to imagine a more strange church. At first, you might think that this is just a huge gray boulder about four meters in diameter. And it really is a piece of rock, but it's hollow inside!

A small wooden door with a gold cross leads to the temple. Behind it is an oval room with a shuttered window. The wall is decorated with a long fresco depicting three horsemen - hence the name of the temple. One of them is easy to identify by the spear with which he hits the snake. There is no doubt that this is St. George the Victorious. There is an inscription under the painting, which says that the holy martyrs were depicted for the salvation of the soul and the forgiveness of sins.

In the Middle Ages, life was full of dangers, so any ancient city cannot be imagined without fortress walls. Eski-Kermen is no exception. The main gate leading inside is pierced right in the rock mass. Behind them was the first defensive wall. The steep ledges of the plateau themselves served as an ideal defense, so the walls were built only where there were loopholes for the enemies. The defensive line included caves with loopholes. The fortifications, erected over a thousand years ago, have been preserved very well.

Photo: Big cave temple

In Eski-Kermen, a large number of religious buildings amazes. On the main street, in the eastern wall, there is a spacious cave temple. Inside you can see benches, a font and tombs. Because of its size, it is called the “Big Cave Temple”. On the territory of the city you can see the ruins of a 6th century basilica and a number of cult cave structures - the Temple at the city gates, the "Judgment" complex and the "Assumption" temple, decorated with frescoes.

The fortress has a siege well, which is a complex engineering structure. In fact, it is an inclined mine working with a stone staircase of 89 steps. It leads to a twenty-meter horizontal tunnel through which you can get into a cave where there was drinking water. The well was in working order until the end of the 7th century. Walking around Eski-Kermen, you involuntarily realize how much time and work it took to turn the mountain into a prosperous city.

How to get there

There are several options for getting to Eski-Kermen. If you go by car, on the 37th km of the Simferopol - Sevastopol road, outside the village of Lilac, you must turn left. On the outskirts of the village Tankovoye, you need to turn right and go to the village of Krasny Mak. The monument to the Grieving Mother will serve as a reference point here. Near it, you need to turn right and drive another 5 kilometers along the dirt road.