Important information about mount everest. Everest - the highest mountain on Earth

It is difficult to imagine that the words "Chomolungma", "Everest", "Peak XV", "Sagarmatha" are the names of the same mountain, the highest point on the planet. Today, the height of Everest is 8848 meters, and this is far from the final figure - according to scientists, the peak increases by another 5 mm every year.

The height of Everest. Object description and general information

The planet rushes up among the eternal snows of the Himalayan mountain range on the border of two states: China and Nepal. Nevertheless, it is generally accepted that the peak itself is located on the territory of the Middle Kingdom.

One of the names - "Chomolungma" - translated from Tibetan sounds very beautiful "Mother of the Wind" or, according to some other sources, "Mother of the life force of the earth." The Nepalese are used to calling her "Sagarmatha", which means "Mother of the Gods."

A more familiar name for us "Everest" in 1856 was proposed by the Englishman Andrew Waugh, who at that time was the successor of D. Everest, the head of the geodetic department in British India. Before that in Europe the mountain was called "Peak XV".

It is noteworthy that from the Nepalese side it will hardly be possible to immediately see Everest - it is obscured from the outside world by the mountains Nuptse and Lhotse, whose height is no less impressive and is 7879 m and 8516 m, respectively.

The most courageous and hardy adventurers climb the Kala Pattar or Gokyo Ri peak to admire the top of the world and take breathtaking pictures.

The height of Everest. Climbing history

This mountain attracted and continues to attract climbers from all over the world. It is no exaggeration to say that Everest has become a place of "pilgrimage" for climbers. Every year hundreds of climbers come here, who strive, if not to visit the summit, then at least to look at the legendary mountain with their own eyes.

Everest is considered difficult to climb: the peak has a pyramidal shape with a steeper slope on the south side. At an altitude of 5 thousand meters, the glaciers end, and on the steep slopes of the mountain, the snow does not linger at all.

The mountain was first conquered at the end of May 1953. The team consisted of thirty people who used - it is impossible without them. Almost 30 years later, Soviet climbers climbed up the southeastern wall. The Ukrainian athletes M. Turkevich and S. Bershov especially distinguished themselves - they made the first night ascent in history.

To date, according to the latest statistics, about 3000 climbers from all over the planet have already visited Everest. Unfortunately, about 200 athletes did not let go of the mountain - they died: someone on the ascent, someone during the descent from lack of oxygen, frostbite or heart failure, some fell off or fell under an avalanche.

This once again proves the fact that on such routes, as a rule, it is not expensive and modern equipment that plays a decisive role, but accompanying luck, which can save the traveler from falls and hurricanes that demolish everything in its path.

The height of Everest. How realistic is it to be in the vicinity of the great mountain?

From year to year, the number of such untouched places like the Himalayas on the planet does not increase at all. Everyone who has recovered to conquer the summit will certainly find himself among the unspoiled by civilization and scientific progress of pristine places.

Everest is a height for those who seek to conquer the irresistible. But, as they say, in this world nothing is impossible, the main thing is to want. For many years, the giant mountain has amazed with its grandeur, impresses with its formidableness and attracts millions of adventure seekers. Although not everyone goes to the very top. Why do they come to Everest? Photos taken at the foot or in the foothills, and the atmosphere itself, can hardly leave anyone indifferent. In addition, international rallies are held here every year, base camps are established and dating evenings are arranged.

Those who certainly want to see the earth from the highest point of the planet should hire a guide or get into a special group. However, I would like to warn right away that this pleasure is not cheap - the cost of the ascent will cost 45-60 thousand dollars.

Most people know only one fact about Mount Everest - this is the highest point on the planet, located somewhere in the Himalayas. But the history of the study and conquest of this legendary mountain is associated with many tragic, interesting and incredible facts.

The Vipgeo portal presents 15 amazing facts about the amazing grief on the planet.

How to get to Everest?

But first you need to find out exactly - where is Mount Everest? Any guide will answer that the highest point of the planet is located on the border of mountainous Nepal and China, but even here there are subtleties that can become real problems for climbers.

The fact is that all ascents to Everest begin from base camps located on both sides of the political borders of Nepal and China. But the problem is that on the Chinese side, the camp is formally on the side of the Tibetan autonomy, and in order to get there in order to conquer Everest, you need to get a special permission from the Chinese authorities, which is not given to everyone, in monstrous terms and for huge money.

Therefore, most of the climbers prefer to start their personal conquest of the mountain from the southern base camp located in Nepal. But even here Russian travelers will face difficulties - there are no direct flights even from Moscow to Nepal, so you need to fly with transfers - either to the UAE or to India. The transit price will be approximately the same.

Arriving in Kathmandu, tourist groups organized according to the paid program. Only the hike to the base camp itself takes about 18 days - you have to walk along the rugged paths of the Dudh Kosi River and through several Himalayan passes. The base camp is located at an altitude of 5364 meters.

For most of the participants, the hike ends here. Climbing Mount Everest requires years of preparation and training, not to mention the requisite climbing experience, so the hike to the base camp itself is often a key adventure at the foot of the mountain.

Important: Only groups led by licensed climbers are allowed to climb Everest. In addition, a special permit from the Nepalese authorities must be obtained and the necessary equipment must be available. In total, the conquest of Everest for one participant costs $ 30,000 or more.

15 facts about Everest

When is the best time to go to Everest?

Even to travel to Everest Base Camp in Nepal requires more than just skills hiking and trekking, but also know the optimal time for such an adventure. What month is the best time to go to the foot of Everest? Almost all travelers ask this question.

According to seasoned tourists, there are four months a year when to Everest, and in general you cannot go to Nepal - these are June, July, August and September. At this time, the monsoon rains are in full swing, and the Kathmandu airport may be completely closed due to unfavorable weather conditions. In the same months, almost all tours associated with the Himalayas stop.

You should also be wary of the May and October weeks - in late spring and early autumn, the rains can still be quite strong. Well, if it doesn't rain, then almost certainly there will be a thick fog at the foot of Everest, allowing only a few hours to make out the top.

As for the earthquakes, due to which dozens of ascents and expeditions were canceled in 2015, here you need to rely only on higher powers. It is impossible to predict cataclysms, and all the conquerors of Everest know about it. It is impossible to climb the highest peak in the world without mortal risk.

Trying to answer the question: where is Everest and in which country - you need to tell a lot. Everest is located in the Himalayas, everyone knows that. But what they are, not many people know.

Yes, and with Everest itself, not everything is simple, since the immediate peak of Everest is located on the territory of the PRC, but you can get to it not only from China. After all, the base of the mountain is located on the territory of two countries - Nepal and China. Accordingly, the routes of conquest go from different directions.

Everest location

In the southern part Central Asia, north of the Bay of Bengal, separating the Indian subcontinent and Indochina, is a huge mountain range which is the highest on the entire planet.

This is the Himalayas, where 10 of the 14 highest mountains in the world are located, the height of which exceeds eight thousand meters. The other four eight-thousanders are located in the Karakorum system, which adjoins Tibet on the western side. Both the Himalayas and Karakorum mountain systems include several mountain ranges, which are located simultaneously in different countries ah and are the boundaries of their territories. In the Himalayas, these are the ranges: Mahalangur-Himal, Kanchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nangaparbat, Annapurna and Langtang. On different sides of the insurmountable ridges lived people not only of different nationalities, but also of different lifestyles, different faiths and speaking different languages. And naturally they called their mountains in their own way, without even thinking that the people living on the other side gave them their own names.

This happened with the largest mountain range "Mahalangur-Himal" on one side of which lived Nepalese, and on the other Tibetans. Moreover, both the Nepalese and the Tibetans, not even knowing that between them there is the highest mountain range and the highest mountain in the world, they deified this peak. The Tibetans called her Chomolungma, which means "Holy Mother" or "Goddess - Mother of the Earth", this name was given to her by the name of Sherab Chammy, the goddess of the national religion of the Tibetans. The Nepalese called the mountain "Jomo Kang Kar", which means "Lady of the White Snows".

Where is Mount Everest located?

Everest is nothing more than the most upper part ridge Mahalangur-Himal, a mountain range called Khumbu-Himal. And these are several peaks, the two highest of which are the main ones.

Oddly enough, it is quite difficult to understand where Everest is located, even being almost in close proximity to it. This is due to the fact that Everest is surrounded by the highest peaks. Itself is the main one, north peak Everest has the shape of a triangular pyramid. Its southern slope is steeper, therefore, on the very slope and its edges, freshly fallen snow and even last year's blackened one, called firn, does not linger, therefore this side is usually exposed. The height of the Northeast ridge is 8393 meters.

• On the southern side of Everest, through the South Col pass with a height of 7906 m, there is Lhotse Peak - 8516 meters, which is sometimes mistakenly called the South Summit.
• From the north, behind the steep North Col with a height of 7020 m, there is Changse Peak - 7543 meters.
• In the east of the massif there is a completely impassable steep cliff wall Kangshung - this is 3350 meters of almost sheer cliff.

The height of Everest itself from the foot to the top is exactly the same - 3550 meters. Glaciers descend from the massif in all directions, ending at an altitude of about 5 km. Part of Chomolungma located in Nepal is part of the Sagarmatha National Park of Nepal.

The name of the highest mountain in the world

It is noteworthy that the name of the highest mountain in the world, Chomolungma, was first recorded in writing on the map in 1717. This map was made by French Jesuit missionaries who were in Tibet at the time. However, the map was a sketchy map, it did not have elevation marks and did not receive wide publicity, and the name Chomolungma did not attract the attention of geographers of that time.

The European name of the mountain - Everest, appeared much later. At the beginning of the 19th century, in India, then a British colony, the Royal Geographical Society began to conduct thorough geodetic surveys. George Everest served with the British East India Company conducting the survey. Dedicating more than 37 years to the service from 1806 to 1843 as the chief surveyor of India, George Everest created Indian geodesy and cartography from scratch. For which in 1827 he became a member of the Royal Geographical Society. Having served up to the rank of colonel, George Everest returned to his homeland in 1843 and continued to work in the Royal Geographical Society. For special services in 1861 he was awarded the title of knight. And from 1862 to 1865 he was vice president of the Royal Geographical Society.

After himself in India, George Everest left a worthy successor, Andrew Waugh, who continued his work. Before that, maps of almost all of India were created. Of great interest were the mountainous regions located to the north, where the highest peaks of the mountain range were located. However, since the territory of Nepal was then closed to foreigners, surveyors took measurements from a distance. The geodetic instruments at their disposal already then made it possible to do this.

Andrew Waugh recruited the gifted Bengali mathematician Radhanat Sikdar, who was educated at the College in Calcutta and on the recommendation of college teacher John Titler, at the age of 19, who was accepted by George Everest on an expedition to the post of "calculator" with a meager salary of 30 rupees a month. In a very short time, Sikdar recommended himself as a specialist with a high level of geodetic skill. Moreover, it was he who created new methods for studying heights at a distance. By the way, among his merits was the formula for translating barometer readings taken at different temperatures to 32 degrees Fahrenheit, which is still used today.

In 1852, Andrew Waugh commissioned Sikdar to measure snow peaks in the Darjeeling region where the British built a mountain station and near which Kanchenjunga peak (8598 m) is located, which was then considered the highest in the entire Himalayan mountain system. After six measurements from various positions, Sikdar came to the conclusion that located almost 200 kilometers from Darjeeling, the altitude indicated on the map as Peak XV is higher than Kanchenjung Peak by as much as 250 meters. It turned out that the height of Peak XV is 8848 meters above sea level and this peak is the highest on earth. He reported this to his supervisor. However, this information was published only a few years later, after repeated verification and verification with other sources.

According to the rules established by George Everest, this mountain had to be given a local name. However, neither Andrew Waugh nor his employees knew what he was called, and therefore, paying tribute to his former boss, Andrew suggested that this peak be named after George Everest. With this name, the last created map was sent to Britain, to the Royal Geographical Society. And Peak XV was officially named Everest.

This name was not perceived in the Soviet Union for a long time and on the maps published in the USSR this peak was listed as Chomolungma almost until 1985. Likewise, the government of Nepal did not recognize the Chinese name Chomolungma and in 1965 the Nepalese gave it their own name "Sagarmatha" meaning "Heavenly summit". This confusion persisted until recently, when a compromise was found in the cartographic world. Now, on modern maps, this entire mountain range is called Chomolungma, and the peak, 8848 m high, is designated as Everest (Sagarmatha). The area adjacent to the peak north of Kathmandu with an area of ​​1,148 square kilometers has been declared Sagarmatha National Park since 1976.

Conquest history

It is believed that mountaineering as a sport has appeared since the first ascent of Mont Blanc by Michel-Gabriel Packard and Jacques Balma, which was on August 8, 1786. Since then, August 8 is celebrated in the world as the International Day of the Mountaineer. And although the height of Mont Blanc is only 4810 meters, at that time it was a feat. And at the same time, it was a start towards the conquest of higher peaks. Very quickly, many followers of Michel and Jacques were found, who, despite the mortal dangers, lack of experience and the necessary equipment, began to climb the famous peaks, understanding higher and higher. So in 1799 A. Humboldt climbed the Chimborazo peak with a height of 5800 meters in South America... In 1829 the expedition guide Russian Academy Sci. Killar Khashirov single-handedly climbed Elbrus 5642 meters high. In 1907 T. Longstaff and H. Brokereli conquered the seven-thousander Trisul 7123 m.

So, one after another, all the European peaks were conquered, and then all the famous peaks of America, Africa, New Zealand. But the desperate daredevils did not stop there. There was a dream to climb the "Roof of the World", as climbers dubbed the Himalayas, including the highest mountain on our planet - Everest Peak. There were a lot of attempts to climb the peaks of the Himalayas and Karakorum. Moreover, teams from different countries “mastered” different picks. So the Germans tried to conquer Kanchenjunga and Nanga Parbat, the Americans and Italians stormed Chogori, and the British stubbornly tried to take Everest.

The British Geographical Society specially created the Everest Committee, whose task was to organize expeditions to Everest. The British developed a plan to climb the highest mountain in the world back in 1893, but the first time they tried to climb Everest only in 1921. At that time, Nepal was ruled by Maharaja Chandra Shamshera from the Rana family and any mountaineering ascents by foreigners were prohibited. The Tibetans also did not immediately agree to let the British into their territory, and only at the insistence of the Viceroy of India, the Dalai Lama agreed to allow the English expedition to Chomolungma. Therefore, it was decided to storm Everest not from the Nepalese side, but from the north, from the side of Tibet. The point where the expedition was outfitted was the city of Darjeeling, in West Bengal. From Darjeeling, the route ran first to the northeast, to round Nepal from the east, and then through Tibet to the west along the Nepalese border. In total, the expedition traveled almost 500 km from Darjeeling to the foot of Everest.

The first expedition was led in 1921 by Colonel Howard Bury. In addition to climbers, the expedition was attended by a geologist and two topographers. This expedition turned out to be a reconnaissance expedition, which determined the route along which it was possible to get to the foot of Chomolungma, in order to then climb the peak. In addition, due to the peculiarities of the climate, the most convenient time of the year was established to avoid winds and monsoons, as well as the state of the snow allowing climbing. According to their calculations, the ascent should be made only during the period of relatively stable meteorological conditions, that is, in May - June (before the monsoons) and in September - November (after the monsoons). Here they are Members of the 1921 expedition. Left to right stand: A.F.R. Wollaston, Charles Howard-Bury, Alexander Heron, Harold Raeburn seated: George Mallory, Oliver Wheeler, Guy Bullock, Henry T. Morshead.

The second expedition was organized in 1922. We started at the end of May. General Bruce was in charge of the expedition. On the route planned in 1921, from Darjeeling to the place of the beginning of the ascent, everything needed was delivered on pack yaks, and then the Tibetan porters carried all the property on themselves to the lower camp at the foot of Everest. Further, the role of porters was played by the Nepalese from the Sherpa tribe, who live in the mountains and are accustomed to the thin air. The Sherpa tribe later began to provide all Himalayan expeditions with guides and porters, which became their profession.

The ascent route was determined along the Rongbuk glacier, then along the slope to the North Col, where an intermediate camp was established, and then along the northern ridge and northern slope. During the first attempt, they climbed to a height of 8138 m. During the second attempt, they reached 8321 m. Until the summit, it remained to rise by another 519 m, which was only 1 km horizontally. But a strong wind rose, and besides, the main climbers Bruce and Finch, in spite of oxygen apparatus, developed altitude sickness and they had to descend to the lower camp.

On June 6, the last attempt was made to climb from the lower camp to the North Col. 3 climbers and 14 porters Sherpas went to the assault. We walked in four bundles. The upper two ligaments were not damaged, and 7 Sherpas died in the lower ones. This tragedy once again confirmed the correctness of Howard Bury's assumption that climbing avalanche slopes after the beginning of the monsoon is very dangerous.

The next attempt to climb the highest mountain in the world was made in 1924. The expedition was again led by General Bruce. However, on the way, he fell ill with malaria and the climbing group was led by Norton. Like last time, the Sherpa porters lifted everything up. necessary equipment to the Northern ridge to an altitude of 8170 m. There they set up an upper camp and began an ascent from it. Two Norton and Sommerwell went to the assault. We walked without oxygen apparatus. At an altitude of 8540 m, Sommerwell stopped, unable to go further. Norton single-handedly climbed to a height of 8573 m and also refused to further ascend. The alpinists, severely frostbitten, with great difficulty descended to the upper camp, and then with the help of the Sherpas down.

In the same year, the Englishmen Mellory and Irvine tried to climb again. We went by oxygen apparatus. But they also failed. When they reached an altitude of about 8500 meters, they died, most likely falling off the rocks. During an expedition in 1933, an ice ax belonging to one of them was found at this height. The expedition was extremely unsuccessful, because another Englishman and one of the Tibetan porters were killed. After Everest took the lives of the best English climbers, for a long time no one dared to repeat their attempts. These daredevils are pioneers: there are Irwin and Mallory on the left, Somerwell, third from the left, sits.

After all that had happened, the Dalai Lama forbade these attempts, and only in 1933 the Everest Committee succeeded in resuming the expedition to Everest.

The members of the first expeditions could not participate in this by their age, the expedition was headed by Ruttlege, and almost the entire composition of the team was new. The ascent was carried out along the same route through the North Col. The Sherpas lifted the entire load to a height of 8350 m, from where the ascent began again. As a result of two attempts, the height of 8565 m was reached. Then, due to the strongest winds, it was decided to stop the assault.

In the same 1933, the British organized an expedition through Everest by plane, before that no airplane had tried to do this. Two Westland biplanes took part. The first P.V.3 (G-ACAZ) was flown by Marcus Douglas, with Lieutenant Colonel Steward Blaker flying as an observer. The second, Westland P.V.6 Wallace (G-ACBR), was piloted by David McIntyre, with photographer Sidney Bonnet flying in the rear cockpit. The planes had aerial cameras for mapping. The crews had oxygen apparatus. They were protected from the cold by warm clothes. Aerial photographs were taken during the second flight.

In 1934, 34-year-old Englishman Maurice Wilson made an attempt to climb Everest, who was considered by many to be not entirely normal. He imagined that it was possible to climb Everest only after a three-week fast, during which a person would be cleansed of earthly pollution and strengthen his body and spirit. At first, he wanted to fly to Everest by plane, sit on its slope, and then climb to the top on foot. But in India, the British authorities detained his plane.

Then he, with three guides of Sherpas, dressed in Tibetan clothes, reached Everest on foot. He managed to climb to the third base camp of the early expeditions, from where he made several attempts to climb. But since he did not have any experience of mountaineering at all, the mind did not succeed. Seeing this, the Sherpas left. Left alone and feeding on the remnants of food from the previous expedition, he continued his attempts, which were in vain. As a result, he was in this third base camp and froze to death. His remains and diary were found by members of the next expedition in 1935.

Such attempts to penetrate Tibet and climb Everest without the permission of the authorities were made twice after that. So in 1947 the Canadian Denman with porters reached the third camp, but he could not even climb the North Col. The same fate befell the Dane Larsen in 1951. By the way, Denman's guide was Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who then in 1953 participated in the victorious ascent and was the first to climb the peak.

In 1935, another British expedition was organized under the command of Shipton. The purpose of this expedition was not the ascent to the summit itself, but to clarify the conditions on the slopes during the monsoon, is the snow thickening on the slopes? In the month of July, they climbed the North Col, but seeing that part of the slope was blown away by an avalanche, they abandoned further attempts. But they did not waste time in two months and successfully climbed 26 peaks located around Everest, including five of which exceeded 7000 m.

In 1936, Ruttledge and Shipton and their team again attempted to climb Everest from the north. The ascent took place in the spring. They safely ascended along their previous route to the North Col, but unusually early, on April 22, the monsoon blew, and when trying to climb the saddle, Shipton miraculously escaped an avalanche. The ascent had to be stopped.

1938, a new British expedition led by Tillman goes to the assault on Everest again. The preparation was carried out especially carefully. Six camps were organized along the route. In the upper sixth camp at an altitude of 8290 m. Sherpa porters lifted the entire load. However, it began to snow heavily and a deep loose snow cover formed, which filled all the ice crevasses and depressions, besides, severe frost hit, so the ascent to the top had to be canceled.

Then the Second began World War and it was not up to the climbs. And after the war, the government of Tibet did not give permission for the expedition for a long time. And only in 1950, under pressure from the British government, Nepal allowed expeditions to be carried out on their territory. Since 1950, the British and French have equipped expeditions to study eastern Nepal... And in the same year, the French Mauriceau Herzog and Louis Lachenal conquered the first eight-thousander Annapurna 8075 meters high.

In 1950, the Americans joined the research. In the fall of 1950, an American expedition, in which the Englishman Tillman participated, approached Everest from the south and carefully surveyed its southern slopes. The approach from the south to the foot of Everest was much more difficult than the northern one, but the section above 7000 meters, on the contrary, is easier and, according to the conclusion of the expedition, the assault on the peak from the southern side could be successful.

The next year, 1951, the Everest Committee sent an expedition under the command of Shipton to study the possibility of climbing Everest from the south. As a result of a long difficult search, a route was chosen through the left branch of the Khumbu glacier, to the South Col and then to the summit along the South-East ridge. However, the expedition itself did not make the ascent due to the fact that the search for a convenient place for the ascent took too long and winter was already approaching.

In 1952, a Swiss expedition headed by Wyss-Dunant took this route. In addition to climbers, the expedition was attended by a geologist, botanist and ethnographer. They safely climbed the South Col and walked along the Southeast Ridge. At 8405 meters, an upper camp was set up, in which the Swiss Lambert and the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay rested and went up the next day. However, they were able to ascend only to an altitude of 8600 m, because their oxygen apparatus failed and they had to stop climbing. In the autumn of the same year, the Swiss tried to climb again, but frost of more than 40 ° and strong winds on the Southeast ridge did not make it possible to continue the ascent. In addition, one Sherpa died during the descent.

The first conquerors of Everest

At that time, there was a concept according to which climbing the highest mountains in the world was proof of the superiority and priority of a particular nation. Therefore, each country individually equipped its expeditions to the highest peak. But given that the government of Nepal allowed foreigners to conduct only one expedition per year, and the teams from different countries had their own climbing experience, it was decided to create an international expedition. The British Everest Committee invited the most famous climbers of other countries to take part in the expedition, including New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who last year with Lambert climbed to an altitude of 8600 m.

John Hunt was appointed head of the expedition. In total, the expedition consisted of about 400 people, including 20 Sherpa guides and 362 porters, because the weight of the property that had to be delivered to the place of ascent was more than 10,000 pounds. Tenzing was in charge of the bearers and was himself both a bearer and a member of the climbing team.

The ascent began in the spring. The base camp was established in March, a little later, at an altitude of 7890 meters, the final camp. John Hunt appointed two groups of main climbers: the first group - Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans, the second group - Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Edmund Hillary did not want to go with Tenzing, but together with his friend George Lowe, and only after long persuasion did he agree.

On May 26, Bourdillon and Evans were the first to attack, but on the way, Evans's oxygen apparatus failed, besides, a stormy wind blew and snow began to fall, they were forced to return. For two days the weather did not allow starting a new attempt. And only on May 28, Hillary and Tenzing, with three escorts, set off. A tent was set up at 8500 meters. It was the eighth assault camp. The escorts returned downstairs, while Hillary and Tenzing stayed overnight in the tent.

In the morning it turned out that Hillary, who took off his shoes for the night and put them under his head, they were completely ice-covered and it took them two hours to defrost them over the primus flame and knead them. When Hillary was able to put on his shoes it was already six thirty minutes in the morning, it was time to get under way. Here is how Tenzing described it in his memoirs: “It was May 29 at half past seven in the morning. The air is clear, there is silence all around. We pulled on three pairs of gloves on our hands: first silk, then woolen, and over them tarpaulin. They put cats on their legs, and oxygen devices weighing sixteen kilograms on their backs. I tightly wound four flags on the ice ax: Nepal, India, United Nations and Great Britain. In my jacket pocket was a small, nibbled piece of my daughter's colored pencil. "

They walked along the route alternately changing, one or the other went ahead. Ascent to South Summit was a solid snow wall of loose snow that constantly crumbled. The legs slipped every now and then, every minute it was possible to slide down, this was the most difficult part of the path. By nine o'clock we climbed to the South Summit. There remained only 300 feet to walk along a narrow ridge, to the left and right of which there were chasms more than 8,000 feet deep, and between them a narrow ridge. Slowly, insuring each other, we walked along the ridge. The last obstacle was a huge rock on the ridge. With difficulty we climbed the rock and rested a little. After that, having overcome several snow puffs, we found ourselves on the last snowdrift behind which there was nothing but the blue sky. It was the summit. The clock showed 11 hours 30 minutes.

They stayed at the summit for only 15 minutes. During this time they planted flags, Hillary photographed Tanzing. Hillary's photo is not at the top. Either Tenzing could not use the camera, or Hillary himself did not want to be photographed, it is not clear. Well, Tenzing also put a pencil of Nima's daughter and a bag of sweets in the snow as an offering to the gods. Having already gone downstairs, Hillary and Tenzing took a picture together. Here is a photograph that has spread all over the world.

The heroes of this expedition received worldwide recognition. Queen Elizabeth II, who received this news on the day of her coronation, bestowed knighthood on Edmund Hillary and John Hunt. Tenzing Norgay was awarded the St. George Medal. It was said that Elizabeth II also wanted to make him a knight, but since he belonged to the lower caste of Sherpas, Jawaharlal Nehru, who was then Prime Minister of India, forbade Tenzing to receive a knighthood.

But the king of Nepal Gribuban awarded Tenzing with the highest order of Nepal - the Nepalese Star and put at his disposal his own plane, on which Tenzing flew with his family to New Delhi. And then Tenzing and his wife were in London at a reception with the Queen. After that, a school of alpine mountaineering was founded in Darjeeling, and Tenzing Norgay became its head.

The fate of the heroes was different. Tenzing Norgay no longer took part in the ascents. The Mountaineering School was transformed into the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and Tenzing was its director until 1976. In 1976 he retired. He also visited the Soviet Union.

Sir Edmund Hillary, after conquering the third pole of the Earth, took up polar research. He led the New Zealand expedition to Antarctica. In 1958 he led the first expedition to the South Pole. In 1960 he organized the creation of the Scott Base in New Zealand in Antarctica. Returning to Nepal in 1960, he was engaged in social welfare issues for the inhabitants of Nepal. He helped build schools and hospitals. He organized the construction of two airfields, which served to develop the tourism business in Nepal. Using great authority with the Nepalese government, he organized the creation in the foothills of Everest national park, for which he was later awarded the title of "Honorary Citizen of Nepal". Until the end of his life, Edmund Hillary was involved in environmental protection and the organization of humanitarian aid to the people of Nepal.

A team of Soviet climbers first climbed Mount Everest in 1982, it became the 25th expedition that managed to climb to the top. 17 best athletes were selected for the USSR national team, which was to climb Mount Everest.

The climbers for the ascent were divided into four teams:

1. Eduard Myslovsky, Nikolay Cherny, Vladimir Balyberdin, Vladimir Shopin;
2. Valentin Ivanov, Sergei Efimov, Mikhail Turkevich, Sergei Bershov;
3. Ervand Ilyinsky, Sergey Chepchev, Kazbek Valiev, Valery Khrishchaty;
4. Vyacheslav Onishchenko, Valery Khomutov, Vladimir Puchkov, Alexey Moskaltsov, Yuri Golodov.

The ascent was carried out along a more difficult route from the southwestern side, previously along which no one tried to climb. The preparation time was almost a month and a half. On March 21, at an altitude of 5340 m, the main base camp was set up, from which the processing of routes and preparation of high-altitude camps began. Only by May 3, the routes were processed and six camps were equipped: on March 21, an intermediate camp at an altitude of 6100m; March 22, 1 camp at an altitude of 6500m; March 31, 2 camp at an altitude of 7350m; April 12, 3 camp at an altitude of 7850m; March 18 Camp 4 at an altitude of 8250m and on May 3 an assault camp at an altitude of 8500m. When everything was carefully prepared, the teams went on to storm the peak.

We walked with a break in time, so two groups climbed the peak at night. Several climbers were injured. A total of 11 people climbed the peak.

On the most high mountain the Soviet flag was erected in the world, and the government of the USSR was informed that the ascent of a group of Soviet climbers to Mount Everest was dedicated to the 60th anniversary of the USSR.

All members of the expedition received the title of Honored Masters of Sports. No other expedition followed this route.

Russian climbers have repeatedly visited the highest peak in the world. So in 1990, as part of the "Peace Expedition" organized by the American Jim Whittaker, the Russian woman Ekaterina Ivanova climbed Mount Everest. In 1992, a team of climbers "Lada-Everest" from Tolyatti, consisting of 32 people, climbed to the top and hoisted the flag of Russia and AvtoVAZ there.

In 1995, a team of Russians in honor of the 50th victory in the Great Patriotic War 1941-45 she dedicated her ascent to Everest. They were the first to make the ascent through the North Col. The flag of the USSR was raised to the peak, which upon returning home was presented to the veterans of the Great Patriotic War.

In the spring of 2004, a group of Russian climbers in the amount of 20 people from several cities: Moscow, Yekaterinburg, Sochi, Rostov-on-Don, Togliatti, Krasnoyarsk, Novokuznetsk, Kirov, Podolsk climbed to the top in the center North wall- this is the most difficult route among all ascents.

Since the first ascent of Everest, more than four thousand climbers have climbed. And although they say that now the ascent to Everest peak has been put on stream, more than 500 people participate in the ascent every year, there is no guarantee that it will go well. More than two hundred climbers died on its slopes, in gorges and in snowy abysses. But, despite these sacrifices, the number of people wishing to visit the third pole not only does not decrease, but increases every year. They face enormous difficulties associated with the risk of their lives, but they strive to this summit in order to look at the planet from the roof of the world for a few minutes.

Everest from Airplane (shrimpo1967 / flickr.com) Everest (Neil Young / flickr.com) Mount Everest from Base Camp (Rupert Taylor-Price / flickr.com) Mount Everest, Base Camp and Rongbuk (Göran Höglund (Kartläsarn) / flickr. com) Summit of Chomolungma (jo cool / flickr.com) View of Everest (Christopher Michel / flickr.com) cksom / flickr.com Mahatma4711 / flickr.com McKay Savage / flickr.com ilker ender / flickr.com Fred Postles / flickr. com Jeff P / flickr.com Everest in the clouds (Jean-François Gornet / flickr.com) utpala ॐ / flickr.com View of Everest from an airplane (Xiquinho Silva / flickr.com) Rick McCharles / flickr.com Climbing Everest (Rick McCharles / flickr.com) Everest Base Camp - Gorak Shep - Nepal (lampertron / flickr.com) akunamatata / flickr.com Top of Mount Chomolungma (Everest) (TausP. / Flickr.com) Denn Ukoloff / flickr.com Mount Everest (Christopher Michel / flickr.com) Returning from Everest Base Camp (valcker / flickr.com) Everest and Nuptz e (smallufo / flickr.com) Stefanos Nikologianis / flickr.com

Everest or Chomolungma is the highest mountain peak in the world. It is located in the Himalayas, on the border of Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. The geographic coordinates of Mount Everest are 27 ° 59′17 ″ north latitude and 86 ° 55′31 ″ east longitude.

The height of Chomolungma is 8848 meters above sea level. For comparison, the height of Elbrus, the highest point in Russia, is only 5642 meters above sea level, i.e. 3206 m below Chomolungma.

The first ascent of Everest was undertaken on May 29, 1953 by New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay.

The mountain is best known throughout the world as "Everest". The summit received this name in honor of George Everest, who was the chief surveyor of British India in the 1830s and 40s.

Mount Everest (Christopher Michel / flickr.com)

It is interesting that the mountain was so named during the life of Everest, about a year before his death. The name was proposed by a student of the scientist who calculated the exact height of the peak and thereby proved that it is the highest on Earth. Prior to this, the summit was also known as "Peak XV".

The traditional Tibetan name of the peak is Chomolungma, which can be translated as "mistress of the winds." This name is widely used in Russian cartography, but in Western countries it is not very well known, since it is considered rather difficult to pronounce.

On maps published in our country, the peak is usually signed as "Chomolungma", and the name "Everest" is indicated in brackets. There is also a traditional Nepalese name for the mountain - Sagarmatha.

Where is Mount Everest (Chomolungma)?

Almost every child knows where Everest is today. If you look at geographic map, then you can see that it is located in the highest mountain system of the Earth - the Himalayas, on the border of Nepal and China.

Everest coordinates: 27 ° 59′17 ″ N and 86 ° 55'31 "E. Mount Everest is part of the Mahalangur-Himal ridge; the Nepalese part of it is located within the Sagarmatha Park.

Summit of everest

The top of Mount Chomolungma looks like a pyramid with three almost flat sides. The southern slope is steeper, snow and ice hardly even linger on it, north slope- slightly flatter.

The relative height of the mountain is approximately 3550 m. The South Col pass, which reaches 7906 meters above sea level, connects Everest with Mount Lhotse (8516 m), and the North Col pass (7020 m) - with Mount Changse (7553 m). Most of the climbing routes pass through these two passes.

Geographic characteristics

The Khumbu glacier is located in the hollow between the peaks of Chomolungma and Lhotse. Below it turns into the icefall of the same name, which is considered the most dangerous area when climbing the South Wing.

View of Everest (Christopher Michel / flickr.com)

This can be explained by the fact that the icefall is almost constantly in motion. To climb this place, climbers use various ladders and railings.

Below the icefall, the glacier continues again and ends only at an altitude of 4600 meters. Its total length is 22 km.

Another notable site of local topography is the Kangshung Wall. This is the eastern wall of the summit of Mount Chomolungma, the height of which is 3350 meters, and the width of the base is about 3000 meters.

The glacier of the same name is located at the foot of the wall. Climbing the summit on the Kangshung wall is significantly more dangerous than the standard routes.

Everest in the Clouds (Jean-François Gornet / flickr.com)

Climate - what time of year is it right to climb Mount Everest?

The summit of Everest is characterized by extremely unfavorable climatic conditions. There are often very strong winds that blow at a speed of over 50 meters per second.

The temperature at the summit is never above 0 degrees. The average July temperature is minus 19 degrees, and the average January temperature is 36 degrees below zero. On winter nights, temperatures can drop to 50-60 degrees below zero.

What is the best period of the year for conquering the summit? Based on climatic conditions, the beginning of May is most favorable for the ascent. At this time, the winds are usually the least strong here.

How was Everest formed?

The history of the formation of Everest is closely related to the history of the formation of the Himalayas, which dates back to many millions of years ago and stems from global geological processes.

The summit of Chomolungma (jo cool / flickr.com)

About 90 million years ago, the Indian plate broke away from the giant mainland of Gondwana and began to move northward rather quickly.

The speed of movement reached twenty centimeters per year, which is significantly higher than the speed of movement of any other plate of the earth's crust. About 50-55 million years ago, the Indian Plate began to collide with the Eurasian Plate.

As a result of this collision, the Eurasian plate was strongly deformed - a vast mountain belt was formed, the highest part of which is the Himalayas.

At the same time, the sedimentary rocks that previously made up the bottom of the ancient ocean were crushed into huge folds and often ended up at great heights. This explains the fact that the summit of Everest is composed of sedimentary rocks.

Everest education scheme

Today, the Indian plate continues to move in northeast direction, deforming the Eurasian plate. In this regard, mountain building processes in the Himalayas continue.

The height of the mountain system in general and of individual peaks in particular continues to slowly increase by several millimeters per year.

During large earthquakes, the change in the height of the territory can occur almost instantaneously and be much more significant.

Ecology: trash left by climbers, bodies of the dead

The environmental situation on Mount Chomolungma leaves much to be desired. During the ascent, a huge amount of debris has accumulated on its slopes.

As of 2007, only the Tibetan section of the mountain contains about 120 tons of various garbage left by climbers. How to remove garbage from the slopes is not entirely clear.

In the past few years, there have been attempts to collect waste, but this was clearly not enough. Another problem is the evacuation and burial of the bodies of deceased climbers.

• Quite an interesting fact is that the water at the highest peak in the world boils at a temperature of only +68 ° C. You may ask why? This is due to the fact that the atmospheric pressure here is only one third of the normal pressure at sea level.
• Another interesting fact- this is the gradual growth of the mountain. Indeed, the height of Chomolungma increases every year by an amount from 3 to 6 millimeters. The same tendency is characteristic of all the Himalayas, which is explained by the ongoing processes of mountain building and the associated uplift of the territory.
• I would also like to mention such a curious fact that Everest is the highest point in the world, only if we take into account the height from the level of the world ocean. So, the volcano Mauna Kea on the island of Hawaii, rises relative to the ocean floor by 10 203 meters, while its height above sea level is only 4205 meters.

A place with a view of Everest

Thanks to the efforts of the www.AirPano.com team, it became possible virtual walk on Everest. AirPano specializes in virtual tours filmed in high definition bird's-eye. Below is a panorama with a view of Everest.

The magnificent landscapes of Mount Chomolungma are mesmerizing. The highest mountain is covered with glaciers, which give rise to many mountain rivers and streams, and its top is hidden in a fantastic haze. The nature around Everest is strikingly beautiful. The Asian queen of the mountains is constantly beckoning adventurers, climbers, rock climbers and casual travelers who love real wildlife.

The highest mountain in the world rises among the glaciers of the Himalayas. Everest is a mountain with a height of 8848 meters, and this absolute record... The place where you settled ancient peak, located on the border of Nepal and China, at the intersection with the Tibetan Autonomous District, but the highest point belongs to the latter country - this is the peak of the Main Himalayan Range.

Queen of the mountains

The intricate name "Chomolungma" comes from the Tibetan "Divine mother of life", which symbolizes vitality or wind. This name was given to the mountain peak in honor of the goddess Sherab Chamma. Nepalese call the highest mountain in the world differently. "Sigarmatha" - this is the name of Everest in their language. The translation coincides with the Tibetan version - "Mother of the Gods". The familiar name "Everest" was proposed by the Englishman Andrew Waugh in 1856. Around the same time, it was determined that Mount Everest has the highest height in the region.

On our planet, pristine places are annually destroyed. Civilization did not reach natural monuments only in rare exceptions, and the object of our attention is one of such reserves. Mount Everest, photo of which was taken in different years, does not change its appearance.

From the side of Nepal, "Mother of the Gods" is covered by two mountain peaks- Nuptse and Lhotse, which are very high. To see the highest mountain in the world, you will have to move a long distance and climb the Kala Pattar crust, which rises 5.5 km. Another option is to climb Gokyo Ri, which is almost the same height. Only in this way can you see Everest in all its pristine beauty. Of course, if the mountain stood on a plain, among the valleys, alone, it would be easier for us to feel the power of this creation of nature. But the extra effort needed to get the best possible angle creates a special atmosphere.

Outwardly, Mount Everest (the photo shows this very well) resembles a somewhat irregular pyramid. The southern slope is at a steep angle, so snow and ice cannot stay on it. The bare side gives the mountain a unique look.

Mount Everest consists of sandy sediments and limestone, which used to serve as the bottom of the Tethys ocean. Believe it or not, scientists have proven that the summit used to be hidden under water. Shells and other remnants of the seabed are still found on Chomolungma. 60 million years ago, the mainland began to move, tectonic plates split, and the Indian lithospheric plate moved north. When it collided with the Eurasian plate, deformation was formed, due to which most of the ocean went underground. A stone barrier was formed, on which mountains are now located, including Everest. The Himalayas are still growing because geological processes have not stopped yet.

Because of its ancient history the climate of the mountains is rather unstable. In the warmest month of July, at the top of -19 C. In winter, the temperature can reach -60 C. It never gets above zero. Monsoon winds in summer bring a lot of precipitation and snowstorms, so this is not the best time for climbing.

Animals and plants are reluctant to live here. Near the foot of Everest, there is a little grass and undersized shrubs, lichens, moss. Himalayan jumping spiders live here, only they are able to withstand an altitude of almost 7000 meters above sea level. They eat frozen insects brought here by the winds. In addition to spiders, some species of grasshoppers live on the slopes. Starting from 6700 m, only microbes live in the Himalayas. Birds sometimes fly to the top - ducks and jackdaws, which can withstand the test of height.

Sacred Sherpa Mountain

Sherpas can be found among the indigenous population of Tibet. This is backgammon who emigrated from China five centuries ago to south side ridge of the Himalayas. They protect their sacred mountain Chomolungma, as they consider it to be the abode of gods, demons and spirits.

Local legends say that the Indian preacher Padmasambhava, who became one of the founders of Buddhism, came up with the idea of ​​organizing a competition to see who climbs Everest faster. The rival could not defeat the elder, and left the drum on the side of the mountain. Now, whenever an avalanche descends from the mountains, the locals beat the ritual drum, expelling the spirits.

The most astounding records are set by local population... So, the representative of the Sherpas Tenzing Norgay together with E. Hillary first climbed to the top. Two of his compatriots have been there at least 20 times in their entire lives. Sherpa Pemba Dorje spent only 8 hours and 10 minutes on the ascent.

Local beliefs long time it was forbidden for white people to climb the mountains. It is believed that the first admitted was Trisul in 1907. From this moment, the story of the conquest of Everest begins.

History

The very first climber who decided to conquer Everest was the Indian mathematician Radhanat Sikdar. The profession helped him calculate the height of the sacred mountain, so he set off prepared. Covering a distance of 240 km, Sikdar proved his calculations. It is worth noting that his research helped the British-Indian Geodesy Service organize an expedition to explore the height of Chomolungma.

The conquest of Everest is a proverbial event. As soon as people found out that this is the highest mountain in the world, they immediately began to conquer it. But the successful ascent took place only on May 29, 1953. E. Hillary and N. Tenzing were able to conquer Everest. From that moment on, climbing Mount Chomolungma became an obligatory program for every climber. This is a difficult path that can often end tragically. On the way, professionals are trapped by oxygen deficiency, low temperatures, heavy wind, frostbite. This is a dangerous kind of extreme sport, which is often abandoned after the first rest at the beginning of the journey.

Soviet climbers conquered Everest in 1982. For five days (from May 4 to May 9) 11 of our compatriots fought bravely against nature. A new kind of record was also held - the first ascent at night. The path to Everest, the mountain, the height and the slope directly affect the difficulty of the ascent, the Soviet athletes made their way along their previously untouched path - on the southwestern slope. One of the members of the expedition made the ascent without an oxygen cylinder, which equates to a fatal risk.

Everest is a mountain whose height has been established for several decades. Finally, accurate measurements appeared only in the middle of the 20th century. Chinese researchers have voiced a figure of 8848 meters. I must say that in 1998 other data appeared. American scientists using a navigation system determined that Everest is 2 meters higher than previously thought. Italian surveyors are generally inclined to consider the height of Everest equal to 8872 meters, that is, 11 meters higher than the initial assumptions. In modern science, the Chinese point of view is adopted.

Whatever the true height of the Chomolungma years, not everyone succeeds in conquering its peak. The last few hundred meters are considered especially difficult. On this stretch of the path, most climbers give up, having changed their minds to risk their health. The retreat is, of course, offensive, but the very fact of the attempt is highly valued in the circles of mountain lovers. According to statistics, only one attempt out of 10 is crowned with success.

Tourism

Despite the fact that the person has not yet reached local nature, in recent years a nature reserve has been opened around the mountain. Visit National Park Sagarmatha can be done by everyone who does not have the opportunity to climb the highest point in the world. It is also very beautiful here.

For 50 years, almost 3,000 climbers from different parts of our planet have reached the summit of Everest. Mount Chomolungma is insidious; during the ascent, many people were hit by an avalanche, they died from hypothermia and lack of oxygen. Modern equipment, oddly enough, does not yet save climbers from the real risk of not reaching the top.

These days this kind extreme tourism is gaining more and more popularity. Many amateurs cannot even imagine how difficult it is to climb Mount Everest, the photo of which and the initial ascent do not seem very difficult. Overcoming yourself, fighting your own fears - this is the main motive of climbing. Those who climb the mountain out of pure vanity will not succeed. Climbers say mountains feel intent and respond with proud challenges.

It is worth noting that the people of Nepal make good money thanks to the tourism industry, but they treat new people with a considerable amount of mistrust. They realize that sacred mountain able to kill anyone, but still rejoice in the flow of tourists. And people are attracted by the desire to test themselves for strength.

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