Mountains near Elbrus. Excursion to Elbrus, Cheget and Narzan glade, Elbrus
Efficiency
People come to the Elbrus region not to sit in a room and contemplate the mountain panorama from the window. The main task is to see more sights, visit significant places, climb Elbrus, ask for good luck from the sacred Ullu-tau, walk through the "city of the dead" El-Tyubu, go hiking in the gorge. The car is a bad helper here. You cannot see the most attractive corners of Kabardino-Balkaria from the federal highway.
And instantly regrets arise that there is no guide, the necessary equipment and a well-designed travel program at hand. This problem can be solved locally, but it requires additional costs.
As a result, the budget for one “savage” tourist reaches 20 thousand rubles or more.
For comparison: the price of our signature tours “Fabulous Elbrus region” (6 days) and “Far from civilization” (7 days) is only 16 thousand and 18 thousand rubles, respectively. They already include comprehensive meals, accommodation, external and local transfers, guide services, excursions, environmental fees, registration of a pass to the border zone. We also have a flexible system of discounts for children and large groups, which provides not imaginary, but real savings of 10-50% of the tour cost.
Without a doubt, a journey through Caucasus mountains(and even more so on Elbrus!) should be done only with an experienced local travel agency. We know the mountains, we know the climate, we know everyone who will help make your long-awaited vacation really safe, exciting and fulfilling. We will show you places that will shock you and will be remembered for a lifetime.
We first arrived in the Elbrus region three years ago and loved this region with all our hearts. Incredibly beautiful mountain landscapes, unusual lakes, waterfalls and many others interesting places make Kabardino - Balkaria very popular among tourists. People travel to the Elbrus region at any time of the year. In the warm season - excursions, walks, climbing Elbrus, trekking routes. Depending on the desires and level of sports training, everyone will find what they need there for themselves. In winter, it is, of course, a ski resort. Moreover, the skiing season sometimes lasts until June.
Walk along the Elbrus. View of the Caucasian ridge from the Garabashi glacier.
Elbrus region. Where to spend your vacation.
To get a little idea of the Elbrus region, one day is naturally not enough. Especially if you are active and are going to hike in the mountains. There are tons of routes where you can go either alone or with a guide. Climbing Elbrus itself, of course.
Cherek Gorge in Upper Balkaria. View from the old road near the tunnel. If you just decided to take a break from the bustle of the city and see the sights, then there are excursion routes by transport, forests, rivers, mountains, lakes for you. The cable cars will take you to great heights. Mushrooms, blueberries in August. We will try to tell you in detail about each of the places we have visited ourselves, and you will already have to choose a vacation to your liking.
Glade Azau. Parking, start cable car, hotels. Popular places for living - the Azau glade, the Terskol village and the Cheget glade. These are the closest points to the foot of Elbrus, to the cable cars. Here is the most developed tourist infrastructure.
The proximity to the cable cars is especially important for ski lovers.
Glade Azau is the closest village to Elbrus, located at its foot. Its location right next to the cable cars (there are two of them here) makes it the most popular resort in the Elbrus region. It is here that ski lovers from all over the world come in season. And the season, I repeat, sometimes lasts until June.
Glade Azau. New hand-held lift. Trails on Elbrus for skiers of different skill levels. Above, on Garabashi, there are green trails for beginners, below there are steeper slopes. There are a lot of hotels of different levels in the village, both in price and in comfort. There is everything you need for living - shops, a pharmacy, an ATM, a first-aid post.
Azau is in demand at any time of the year among fans of mountaineering, trekking, and just vacationers. The cable car will take you 3750 meters above sea level to the Garabashi glacier. From there, a panorama of the Caucasian ridge opens, to the snowy Elbrus.
Cheget.
Polyana Cheget is a ski resort for more experienced athletes. The tracks here are only blue and red, there is nothing for beginners to do. There is a chairlift to Mount Cheget. In the village there are hotels, cafes, rentals.
Polyana Cheget. View from the cable car. Cafes, hotels, market. Hiking lovers come here in the summer, active rest... There are a lot of routes for them, including to the top of Cheget. Adaptation takes place here before climbing Elbrus.
View of Elbrus from Mount Cheget. The upper station of the cable car. Cheget offers a magnificent view of Elbrus, the Baksan gorge. The place is ideal for photo tours, the main thing is to be lucky with the weather. If you do not like walking in the mountains, you can take a cable car or take a walk at an altitude of 3000 meters above sea level.
Polyana Narzanov.
Glade Narzanov can be imagined as a small recreation park. It is located in a picturesque place under the mountain in a place where several mineralized springs gush out from the ground. Water contains iron, has a characteristic flavor and color.
Polyana is located near the village of Terskol, convenient access, beautiful mountain landscapes, many cafes with national cuisine tourists are attracted here not only for treatment with narzan, but also in order to calmly walk, relax, eat in a cafe. For example, we love to stop by here for lunch.
Narzan spring in the Elbrus region. Water contains iron and therefore has a characteristic color and flavor. In fact, the special value of this place is, of course, in the composition of the water. Bottles, disposable glasses can be purchased locally.
Various souvenirs and trinkets for tourists are sold on the territory of the meadow.
Thermal springs.
The popular thermal waters of Kabardino - Balkaria are Geduko and Aushigersk sources. They are located near Nalchik and are popular at any time of the year. The water in the springs is hot and mineralized. People come here both for medicinal purposes and just to relax.
Thermal springs in Aushiger. Kabardino - Balkaria. Aushiger has one pool with warm water, about 35 degrees. You can pay for a booth for a company and relax separately, with a pool, sofas, a table and a barbecue. On the territory there are hotels, cafes, shops. For bathers, changing rooms and gazebos for relaxation.
Geduko has several pools with water of different temperatures. There are various slides, boats for children. Also sun loungers, gazebos, changing rooms, showers. As in Aushiger, there are booths for groups of several people.
There is also in the Elbrus region mysterious place Jili-Su. There, too, there are pools with thermal water and there is absolutely no civilization. All summer we were going to swim in them, but the weather let down all the time, in this rainy summer, we did not dare. The road leaves much to be desired, but you need to spend the night in tents, or stop in Kislovodsk. We left this journey for the next season.
Trekking routes.
There are a lot of trekking routes in the Elbrus region. For all tastes, ages and fitness levels. Designed as one day or several.
Ecological trail to the waterfall. Not far from the Azau glade. You can walk by yourself or with professional guides. We have just discovered this type of outdoor activity, and in our piggy bank hike to the waterfall Maiden's Braids, Azau waterfall, routes along the Baksan river, Adyr-Suu and Adyl-Suu gorge. Read about all our travels in the blog.
A more difficult route is climbing Mount Cheget. Those who are going to conquer Elbrus also pass it. And there are many roads that we have not yet explored.
Sights and excursions in the Elbrus region. Where to go and what to see.
We have already written about Azau, Terskol and Cheget, but the Elbrus region is large. Just below Terskol there is a turn into the Adyr-Suu gorge.
Lift in the Adyr-Suu gorge. There are 310 steps in total. Below there is a platform for lifting machines. Cars are lifted on a special lift, people can climb on foot. The road through a dense mountain forest will lead to the foot of the Ulu-Tau mountain. It is about 15 kilometers from the lift to the goal, it is difficult to walk on foot, you need to go by off-road vehicles.
The sights of Kabardino-Balkaria are not only the Baksan Gorge, which we mainly wrote about. Not far from the capital of the republic - Nalchik, there are amazing places that tourists love very much.
Big Chegem waterfalls in Kabardino-Balkaria. View from observation deck. Chegem waterfalls... They are located in the gorge of the same name. A popular excursion route to the waterfalls includes a visit to the Small Waterfall, also called the Maiden Spit, and the Big or Main Chegem Waterfalls. Highly beautiful place- a narrow gorge, high cliffs and cascades of water falling from a great height. People come here at any time of the year.
If you drive another 15 kilometers along the gorge, there will be a Chegem parodrome. You can fly with an instructor on a paraglider and see the gorge from above.
Blue Lake Tserik-Kel in Kabardino-Balkaria. Translated as "Rotten Lake". Blue Lakes. This place is just for those who are tired of the hustle and bustle. Three lakes are available for walks, located close to each other. The most popular is the Lower Blue Lake. The beautiful turquoise color of the water has the same temperature both in winter and in summer. This lake, unlike the two upper ones, does not freeze in winter.
If you go further along the highway, you will find yourself in the Cherekskoe gorge. The main attractions of this area are the old road, the tunnel and ancient city... In general, the places here are so picturesque that the road to Upper Balkaria is itself an attraction.
Thermal springs, we have already talked about them.
Excursions in the Elbrus region.
If you have never been to the Elbrus region, for the first acquaintance, you need several days. The summer season is of course trekking. There are a lot of unique routes in the Baksan Gorge. It's like health trails along the Baksan River through the forest. So are simple routes to lakes and heights that can be walked in one or several days. Well, if you can call it an excursion - climbing Elbrus.
Garabashi glacier. Elbrus. The summit is slightly hidden behind the clouds. This route is for more prepared travelers, although we know many examples when people climb without any training and acclimatization. Such an excursion lasts up to 10 days, although the ascent to the mountain itself takes 8 hours. We will tell you more in the blog articles.
V winter time the resort turns into a big friendly family of skiers, many tourists come here to ski on the ski slopes of Elbrus. For lovers of freeride there is Cheget. Trails from this mountain are more difficult and lovers of "powder" here have a place to show their skills.
Summer and Winter in the Elbrus mountains.
Let's start with the fact that it is very difficult to predict the weather in the mountains. More than once we found ourselves in situations where the weather changed dramatically within half an hour. We were suddenly covered with rain with a thunderstorm or dense fog. Just be prepared for such a change.
Adyr-Suu gorge. Paradise for mushroom lovers. Hunting and fishing are prohibited here, the gorge is a nature reserve. Summer is perhaps the most favorite time of the year for us. It is at this time that many beautiful places, just to be in nature. For lovers of berry and mushroom hunting, there is simply expanse here. If you are fond of fishing, you can go for trout fishing. It starts to get colder in the gorge in September. And at the end of the month the first snow may fall. Up in the mountains, he goes much earlier. And the trails for skiing are ready at the beginning of December.
We are going to the Elbrus region. All you need to know.
Coming to the Caucasus, remember that many nationalities live here and the main religion is Islam. Respect for local laws and regulations. You do not need to learn the language, here they speak Russian perfectly. A large number of foreigners from all over the world are also not limited in communication - English, Spanish, German, whatever speech you just hear.
It is customary here to greet people even with strangers! Be sociable and they will tell you everything.
Clothing should be chosen so that it is comfortable and warm. Remember the changeable weather and the fact that the higher the mountains - the colder. If you are going to ride the cable car, even in summer, take a jacket in your backpack. You can easily get caught in rain or snow, the rest will be ruined.
How much is a vacation in the Elbrus region. How much money to take.
In any resort, vacation requires a waste of money. Let's try to tell you what you will have to spend money on.
View from the cable car to the Cheget glade. Downstairs of the hotel and parking for cars. If you come to ski, then you have to rent a hotel... In the high winter season, the demand is huge, the prices are not low, so book your accommodation in advance, there are plenty of services. It is also possible to find accommodation upon arrival, but you have to search and it will cost you much more (recall this in the winter season). When there are no skiers and the ski slopes are closed, prices drop and you can book a room for 1000 rubles.
Hotels and cable car in Azau. Another point of consumption will be the cable car. The prices for lifts are different, there are one-time tourist lifts and there are unlimited lifts - a ski pass.
For example, this summer, the ascent to Cheget on a chairlift cost 700 rubles. per person. Ascent to Mir station on Elbrus - 950 rubles. on the new lift, and 500 rubles on the old one. The funicular goes up a little slower and you may have to queue.
From the Mir station to the Garabashi station, there is a one-seater chairlift, the lift costs 200 rubles. There is a new gondola, but it was not possible to climb on it, at that time there was a renovation.
Prices in the Elbrus region - what to buy and where to eat.
As elsewhere, prices go up in high season. If in summer you can rent a hotel room for 1000 rubles, then in winter it can cost 5000-7000 rubles. per day.
You can bring a bunch of souvenirs home, ranging from ammonites, to various knitted items and sheep wool toys. We were happy to buy here warm knitted socks, and warm slippers and fur toys as gifts for our relatives. Magnets with our photos on Cheget.
Shashlik on the Narzanov glade. A mutton fat tail is smoked over the brazier. Local delicacy. You can dine in various hotel cafes. We like to go to the Cheget glade or Narzanov glade for lunch. The nearest supermarket and market are in Tyrnyauz. Closer only private shops with a meager assortment and slightly overpriced.
Food prices in 2017. How much food costs and where is it more profitable to eat.
The cuisine is the same everywhere - Caucasian. All cafes cook shorpu (mutton soup), fried khychins, shashlik and zhaubaur (liver in a grid on the grill).
Shorp. Lamb soup. Some potatoes and herbs. Insanely delicious! All dishes are made from lamb. You won't find pork, you rarely find beef. We come to eat at the Cheget glade or the Narzanov glade. A hearty lunch will cost about 400 rubles per person. The portions are large, the dishes are hearty, so don't order too much, you will have to take it with you. We used to take food with us, as we have already written, it’s about forty minutes to go to the nearest supermarket. Recently, we prefer to eat in a cafe, it is not much more expensive and everything is always fresh.
Souvenirs, shopping, what to bring home from the trip.
There are many souvenirs in the markets. As elsewhere in the Caucasus, there are many markets in the Elbrus region where you can buy various necessary and unnecessary things. A lot of knitted products, works of local craftsmen. A lot of knitted and felted things from natural sheep six. Warm sweaters and hand-knitted sweaters. Toys, souvenirs. Mugs, plates with themed inscriptions, personalized spoons. A huge number of magnets. Ammonites, ancient fossilized molluscs, are sold on the Blue Lakes.
What to take with you in the Elbrus region.
The most important thing is warm clothes and comfortable shoes... Necessarily changeable set of clothes, about changeable character local nature we already wrote. And your sneakers and pants may not dry out overnight. If we go in shorts and T-shirts in the summer, then a warm vest and a windbreaker must be in the trunk.
We take a minimum of products. There is nowhere to store them, but you can always eat in a cafe, where everything is hot and fresh. We do not buy bottled water. Water pipelines are mainly stretched from mountain springs, the water is clean, glacial, without impurities.
You can rent any equipment. So there is no special need to buy and carry with you.
To the Elbrus mountains independently.
With the current development of the Internet, there are no problems getting anywhere on Earth. If you are driving, the navigator will guide you where you need to go. If you arrived by train or arrived by plane, there is public transport or taxis. The nearest airport is in Nalchik, a little further from Min-Vody. Railway in Pyatigorsk. Book accommodation, tickets and there will be no problems.
Glade Azau. Market, parking. The nearest airport in the capital of the republic is in Nalchik. Locals and more experienced tourists will be happy to tell you about the places they have visited and recommend where to go. You can use the advice of travelers on the Internet. You can buy a tour or use the services of professional guides, while there will be much more opportunities and impressions.
Where and how to find housing in the Elbrus region.
The most popular hotels are located in the immediate vicinity of the ski lifts. In the Azau glade and Cheget glade. There are many hotels along the road to Azau. Camping sites are open during the summer.
Hotels in the Azau glade. The old funicular is visible. A large number of private hotels can be booked on booking.com, find discounts on hotels on Roomguru.com. If you have not booked the hotel in advance, you will have to go directly to the hotels and inquire about the availability. We advise you not to run from hotel to hotel - prices are about the same.
How to travel by public transport
You have planned independent travel to the Elbrus mountains! What do you need to travel? On our site there is useful services page for traveling. It will help you save a lot of time and money. There are several ways to get to the Elbrus region.
Let's say your point of departure is Moscow or St. Petersburg. The fastest way is to buy a ticket to Nalchik or Mineralnye Vody... Searching for air tickets on the service aviasales.ru will help you to buy cheap ticket... I will say right away that to get to Cheget, Terskol or Azau by public transport possible, but very inconvenient, you will waste a lot of time. I will not explain, google it yourself. Better or Azau. It turns out to be very beneficial if you are eating in a group and you have huge backpacks.
You can take the train, but that's if you have time. There are no direct trains to the Elbrus region either.
You can also get through Stavropol airport, but we do not recommend it, because air tickets to Mineralnye Vody or Nalchik will cost almost half the price, you still have to go to these cities.
You can buy bus tickets to Nalchik or Mineralnye Vody. Take tickets at a proven serviceThere are not so many options, but they are all available and it is possible to buy tickets through online services.
The small village of Terskol officially belongs to the territory of the Elbrus settlement. It is located by this mountain on its southeastern side. This village is considered one of the most famous ski resorts in our country. It is distinguished by especially steep slopes - the height differences reach 850 meters. Highest point the track is located almost at a height of three kilometers. Here snow covers the slopes from October to May. But in spring it is very windy here and it is not very pleasant to ride. Come to rest in Terskol - you will like prices, entertainment and attractions.
Until the mid-forties of the last century, there was only a tiny aul on the site of this settlement. But then a village was organized at this place, the inhabitants of which began to service the resort. Now the inhabitants of this village are busy with the same - its population lives by serving the village.
How to get to Terskol?
You can get here in different ways - by plane to Mineralnye Vody, and then by bus or taxi to Terskol itself. A bus ride from the airport will cost 250 rubles, the same taxi ride will cost 2,000 rubles. You can also go by minibus, for which you will pay 600 rubles.
What to do here?
There are two main ski resorts in the Elbrus region - Azau and Cheget. The distance from Terskol to Cheget is only 1 kilometer, and to Azau - 4 kilometers. But only professional skiers ride on Cheget, the slopes are so dangerous and steep here. Rest on Cheget costs from 800 rubles.
The Azau tracks are much softer, both experienced skiers and beginners can rest here. Azau has comfortable blue tracks, where there is very little elevation difference. There are also cooler ones, marked in red and black. These slopes are equipped with modern lifts. The cost of rest here ranges from 1300 rubles to 1500 rubles.
In Terskol, there are absolutely no remarkable places and entertainment. There are only mountains here. True, not far from the bus station there is a monument to people who died in these places during the war. There is also a museum dedicated to the defense of the Elbrus region. There are very few exhibits here, which, nevertheless, make an indelible impression.
There are many mountain streams, waterfalls and lakes near Terskol. The Beksan gorge with the river begins here. There are very beautiful landscapes here. Therefore, even if you are not very fond of skiing and snowboarding, the surrounding landscapes will certainly impress you. You can walk to local waterfalls. It is worth seeing the waterfall Maiden Spit, as well as Terskolky. These waterfalls are very beautiful and make an unforgettable impression.
There is a key with mineral water like Narzan. This water has a special taste, it is liked by both visitors and local residents. The only drawback is that it cannot be collected for future use and stored.
It can be noted that the base in Terskol is the most developed and well organized in the vicinity. There are tennis courts, basketball and volleyball courts, a sauna, swimming pools. Vacationers can work out in the gym, watch movies, attend concerts, discos and other entertainment programs.
Where to stay in Terskol?
If you decide to come on vacation in 2020 to this particular village, then you can not be afraid that you will have nowhere to stay. There are many hotels and inns in Terskol. You can find the most budget options, with the cost of an overnight stay from 700 rubles. There is also a very pretentious establishment where a room costs from 3800 rubles. There are a lot of apartments in Terskol that can be rented from local residents. It is very beneficial if you come here to relax with your family and children. But it should be borne in mind that when staying in the village, you will need to get to the slopes every day.
You can dine at the most popular restaurant in Terskol called "Kupol". Here you will be offered a wide variety of Caucasian cuisine. A full lunch at this establishment will cost you 600 rubles. If you do not want to break away from skiing for a long time, then you can have a snack right on the slope or at the hotel.
As souvenirs about holidays in 2020 in Terskol, you can bring things from goat down, knitted by the hands of local craftsmen. They sell delicious dried lamb and smoked cheese here. If you are looking for something exotic, then buy the horns of a tour, a dagger or a horseshoe. Lovers of sweets will definitely appreciate the local honey, halva and herbal teas. You will find the most diverse selection of goods at the spontaneous markets of Cheget and Azau.
If you need to buy something from the equipment of a skier or alpinist, then visit the store "Alpindustriya", where you will be offered the widest selection of sports equipment. There are also several shops where you can upgrade your equipment.
I think many of you watched with interest films about mountain climbing, about mountain climbers. And someone even had a thought - how does it feel to climb a few kilometers up ? Why are almost all films about ascents (as well as real ascents) literally imbued with the spirit of danger? What loads does the human body experience in this case?
Few will venture on a real expedition to the big mountains - this is the lot of the elite. This requires serious preparation: physical, moral and financial, finally ...
But still, there is one place in Russia where you have a real chance to feel all the "charms" of the highlands, to understand how our body feels on high altitude, be the hero of the day on social networks. And at the same time - admire the unforgettable landscapes.
If you like this "option" - welcome to Elbrus , the highest mountain peak Russia and Europe.
Trip to Elbrus and Cheget in May by car
Where is Elbrus
Until last year, despite my rich travel experience, I could hardly have been able to accurately answer the question - where is Elbrus? Where, where, in the Caucasus! Which, of course, would be the correct answer. But not complete.
And only when last fall we got to the glorious city Pyatigorsk Elbrus has ceased to be for me an abstract mountain in the Caucasus. When we went on an excursion, I saw a road sign to Elbrus, which was only about 100 km away ... And I realized that I would definitely go there. Not this time, so next. But surely soon.
So, Mount Elbrus (height 5642 m) is located on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia and represents mountain range volcanic origin, that is, an extinct volcano. This is one of the largest centers for mountaineering and skiing in Russia and Europe.
It is only 150 km from Pyatigorsk to the foot of Elbrus. And in good weather, a good view of Elbrus opens from Mashuk.
But our goal is to climb Elbrus itself by cable car. And so, on a sunny May morning, we load into our car and move out of Pyatigorsk to see everything with our own eyes.
Elbrus region in spring-summer: what tourists do here
The summer season in the Elbrus region is an expanse for active recreation. Climbing groups constantly climb the mountain, and the picturesque views of the Elbrus peak, which is covered with white snow even in summer, attract crowds of ordinary tourists. And every year there are more and more people wishing to climb the famous mountain.
Gone are the days when there were "old-regime" cable cars, on which not only to climb - from the side it was scary to watch ... Now all advertising brochures inviting to Elbrus promise a pleasant walk on a fast and safe lift. Well, well, let's see ...
How to dress for a trip to the Elbrus region
While I was studying travel forums in search of information about what Elbrus is in May, I most often came across a discussion of the question - how cold is the Elbrus region at this time of year? And the opinions were downright polar. Some wrote that they climbed in a light fleece and did not freeze. Others claimed that they took winter clothes and shoes with them - and did not regret it ...
I was guided by the fact that in our Polyana, climbing to the top of the Black Pyramid in the summer, I took only a light sports jacket with me. And I didn't really need anything but good sneakers to walk on the snowfield. If it will be bright sun, then you still sweat and burn. And if a cloud flies in ... You just need to understand that the weather in the mountains changes every 5 minutes, and you still won't be able to foresee all the scenarios. Therefore, it is worth having with you a couple of additional layers of clothing of varying degrees of insulation, for example, a warm fleece and a windbreaker jacket. Put them in a backpack, and then on the spot you will find out what you want to wear.
What to see on the way to Elbrus
Generally speaking, the road to Elbrus, starting from the turn from the highway before settlement Baksan, goes along a beautiful valley between the mountains, along Baksan river .
The river is long - 173 km. Its sources are located in the glaciers of Elbrus, therefore the river is stormy and cold. And the landscapes are beautiful:
And the road surface is good here, so the trip by car will be pleasant.
Monument to the first conquerors of Elbrus
The first place where we made a short stop was the Monument to the first conquerors of Elbrus. It is located behind the bridge over the Baksan River, in front of the village Verkhniy Baksan ... Represents four pedestals. On two of them are the figures of snow leopards, and on two of them are the figures of two brave mountaineers: the Kabardian Killar Khashirov (in other sources - Khachirov) and the Balkar Akhiya Sottayev.
The first was in 1829 a guide in an expedition to Elbrus under the leadership of the head of the Caucasian fortified line, General G. Emmanuel, and actually the only person from the entire expedition who climbed the summit of Elbrus (the rest were "blown away" at an altitude of 5350 meters). The second became a guide for a group of British climbers led by D. Freshfield in 1868 and then again, six years later.
Tyrnyauz
Town of Tyrnyauz - the administrative center of the Elbrus region and largest settlement in the valley. It arose in 1934, when a tungsten-molybdenum deposit was discovered here and a combine was built, which supplied our military industry with raw materials. This city-forming plant was one of the flagships of the non-ferrous metallurgy of the USSR.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union, when the city-forming enterprise slowly rolled into the abyss, the town began to decline. It became out of fashion to work at the plant. In addition, it has suffered more than once from mudflows descending from the surrounding mountains ... After them, the infrastructure was almost not renewed - there was no money. People began to leave for big cities, simply leaving their apartments, tk. selling them at that time was practically unrealistic - the Caucasus was shaken by military conflicts ...
In short, about Tyrnyauz on almost every travel site it was written that it was ghost town , which scares passing tourists with half-abandoned houses. So I was determined to see practically the "Caucasian Chernobyl". But the town turned out to be not so scary:
Apparently, in recent years, tourism has grown, and the town has begun to gradually revive.
It would be logical to make of him tourist centre, where skiers, conquerors of Elbrus and other lovers of mountain landscapes will be able to rest. After all, it is just a stone's throw from here to Elbrus - only 30 km. I would like to hope that the times are not far off when decent hotels will be built here, shops, cafes, souvenir shops will open ... But so far all this is not there. And there is a beautiful nature - and semi-residential high-rise buildings in need of repair ...
Village Elbrus
If we remember Tyrnauz, then you can't say this about the village of Elbrus. We just drove right through it and drove on. And in front we see a pointer to the Narzanov Glade.
Narzan glade
To be honest, at first glance at this place it became clear to me (as a guide): this is a pure attraction for tourists. Yes, there are narzans here:
But one source here accounts for 5-7 different cafes and souvenir pavilions. However, if you want to have a bite to eat and buy some souvenirs from a trip to the Elbrus region, then do not drive by.
We just drank coffee (100 rubles per cup) and drove on - we could not wait to climb Elbrus itself.
It is for the same reason that we have so far passed the turn to Cheget, although it is located almost immediately after Polyana Narzanov. We will visit it on the way back. In the meantime, we go further.
Terskol
And then there was Terskol. It is as small as Elbrus, but because of the tall pines it is somehow more comfortable. Terskol was originally built to house the maintenance personnel of the Elbrus recreation area. But now it is advised to all tourists as an inexpensive accommodation option in the Elbrus region. There are really a lot of mini-hotels and hotels here. By the way, the prices for them were pretty decent even now, in May (that is, sort of like in the off-season).
But as I realized later, in the summer there is also a demand for them here. And all because here, within 15–20 km (on a good highway), there are a dozen different, easily accessible, not similar to each other, the most beautiful short (4–8 km) routes.
In the center of the village there is a control and rescue service, which is one of the strongest services in the structure of the Russian Emergencies Ministry. Another thing that attracts attention is the zentik cannons standing on the side of the road, in the woods. But no, this is not an echo of the Caucasian wars. These are anti-avalanche cannons. To forcibly release avalanches at the right time in the right place.
Glade Azau and ascent to Elbrus
The Azau glade is located at an altitude of 2300 meters. And this is the final part of the car route. We park in one of the lanes. Now, in May, there is no problem with that. As there are no warnings that parking in this place is paid. Or maybe it is not paid, but some peasant, before our departure from Azau, came up and shook us 200 rubles. It seems like a trifle. But for what - it is not clear ...
Yes, the tourist infrastructure here, of course, is not as extensive as in Krasnaya Polyana. The entire Azau glade can be walked around in 10 minutes. And the most the best hotels here they look like inexpensive hostels in Krasnaya Polyana.
But we don’t spend the night here. Therefore, we don't bother too much about hotels, but go straight to the cable car ticket office.
We buy a ticket for the rise up to 3780 - Garabashi station ... It costs us 1,250 rubles per person. We load into an 8-seater gondola and begin our "conquest" of Elbrus. Its top is hidden from us by dense clouds.
By the way, weather during our journey from Pyatigorsk to Terskol, it has time to change. The sun hides behind clouds, and the air temperature drops by 10 degrees: if in Pyatigorsk it was about +25, then in the Azau glade it is no more than +15.
But here she remains below:
On the way, we manage to take a few photos. Here, in parallel with us (but a little slower than us), the carriage of the old cable car rises:
And the first transfer is to be at around 3000 meters above sea level. We leave the booth and go to the next line of the lift, driven by the cool breeze.
So far, we have not observed any special changes in health. But here it got even colder and there is already snow underfoot:
On the next section of the cable car - up to 3500 - we notice that the visibility has deteriorated, the mountain began to be covered with a cloud, and snow pellets fell from the sky.
On the slopes under the cable car I can see several ski trails. And I also notice that the snow here is also with a sandy pink tint, just like we had creme brulee snow in March in Krasnaya Polyana:
In general, this region is loved for its off-piste opportunities, i.e. for a great freeride.
We leave at 3500 and find ourselves in the most real winter:
But the fact that the temperature is near freezing here is not the most surprising. Most of all, the reaction of one's own body is surprising: the head is spinning like after a good champagne. Well, despite the cloudiness, it is unrealistic to remove dark glasses from the eyes - the eyes begin to water from the excess of ultraviolet radiation.
By the way, that is why we are not so cold: you feel warm from below from the snow. This is the same ultraviolet light reflected from the snow warms you up ...
The last stretch is up to 3780 meters. We leave the booth and understand - it is hard to be at such a height without preparation - already here it becomes a little difficult to breathe. Although some people feel quite comfortable here and let themselves be stroked:
To go even higher, on a chairlift, or as the local "Jedi" suggest to us - on snowmobiles, in our clothes, of course, it makes no sense. But there, up, a group of well-equipped conquerors of Elbrus leaves on skis ...
And we are saving ourselves from the cold in a simple cafe.
Outside the windows there is a snowy haze, which is getting stronger every minute. Here's to you, grandmother, and gorgeous views of Elbrus ... From Pyatigorsk it could be seen even better))) It's a little offensive that I didn't get to fully experience the beauty of this place.
Well, I was also impressed by the local toilet. No, he is not in the cafe. It is located behind the cafe and looks like this: a metal box hangs over the abyss, there is a hole in the floor, and there is a 100-meter break under it. Yes, here, as in that joke, you go to pee - at the same time ...
After warming up a little in a cafe, we go back. As the cabin descends, the head stops spinning. But the ears are lagging. An incomprehensible fatigue is piling up.
But the weather suddenly changes again, the clouds part, and we admire the beautiful panorama of the mountains. Elbrus apologizes to us for the harsh reception at 3780 ...
So on the way back the photo session was longer.
And the mood has improved markedly! So we arrive at the Azau glade satisfied, having made a huge number of bright photos.
After all, we were on Elbrus, and now it will also be in our hearts.
Now +15 in the Azau glade seems to us a real warmth. We walk a little along the market with local knitted products:
And we also go to eat khychins in a cafe. Now you can look at Cheget.
Cheget unsubdued
Mountains Cheget and Elbrus stand practically opposite each other. Cheget translated from Balkar means "northern" or "in the shadow". And yes, of course, he is much inferior to his great brother Elbrus - only 3422 meters high. But on the other hand, according to his words experienced tourists and skiers, the most best view to Elbrus.
And besides, some of our instructors, with whom I work in Krasnaya Polyana, asserted: those who can ride on the slopes of Cheget will be able to ride everywhere. In general, I had two reasons to climb Cheget: to make gorgeous shots with Elbrus and to see the very difficult slopes of Cheget for skiing.
And both reasons were smoothly transferred to the next time by Cheget's idle cable car. Yes, we were late: she worked until 16 o'clock. And we arrived at the clearing in front of Cheget at half past four. And the old Cheget ski lift froze until the next morning. Please note: there are no modern cabins like on Elbrus. Chairlift, open. Therefore, for those who are afraid of heights, there is definitely no need here:
True, you can climb the mountain on foot (and save 600 rubles), but this method is definitely not for “couch dwellers”. By the way, local guides take those wishing to climb Elbrus here for primary acclimatization before the hike.
The glade itself seemed to me even more comfortable and welcoming than the Azau glade. There are a lot of different cafes here. Behind them there are hotels of different colors, new and not so:
And no one took a ruble from us for parking. And they rode our child's ATV for free for a couple of minutes, for his wide smile))
In a word, Cheget remained unconquered, but became a pleasant memory of that day.
And we had a way back 150 km long to Pyatigorsk, and our number in. We drove into Pyatigorsk already in complete darkness. And looking at him blooming flower beds and alleys , we could not believe that three hours ago we were walking along snow-covered slopes of Elbrus …
Accommodation on Elbrus and Cheget
To be honest, if we had no other plans for the next day, we would be happy to stay on Elbrus to spend the night. Moreover, the number of rooms in the vicinity of Elbrus is for different tastes and wallets.
- for skiers, the most convenient options will be hotels right next to the ski lifts, on the Azau glade: Vertical, Sirius,Jan Tugan, Scheherazade, Relax hotel Azau Star 4 *, or on the Cheget glade: Ozone Hotel, hotel Laguna 3 *, hotel Snow Leopard.
- can also be found good hotels in Terskol: hotel Smile, Ozone Seven Summits, Hotel Pivot, hotel Terskol 3 *, hotel Saray Gora.
- a little further, but also not far from the ski resorts, in the village of Elbrus: Shaman chalet near Elbrus, Sky Elbrus hotel, hotel Maral, Elbrus Plaza
In the high season (December-January) it is worth taking care of the accommodation well in advance. Although there are a lot of hotels, all decent options are bought out.
Summary
This is how we got this trip to the Elbrus region. Of course, in one day it is difficult to cover everything for which people come to this region for a week or two. Therefore, most likely our route will pass through this picturesque valley more than once.
So, if you generally love mountains, are nostalgic for the romance of the Soviet era, dream of an active and non-trivial vacation, then the Elbrus region is waiting for you!
And for our next impressions we went to another valley and another, neighboring, republic North Caucasus... But that's a completely different story ... Stay tuned for new articles!
See you soon on the blog!
You set out to travel and see the vastness of the Motherland, since it is not deprived of beauty. And the Elbrus region is included in the list of must-see places. That you will see the Main Caucasian ridge and the most high summit Russia and Europe, so it's understandable. What else awaits you on this trip?
When to go to Elbrus
To begin with, it is worth deciding what time of year the trip will bring you more joy.
Energize the best ski resort Russia is available from November to April.
November will very quickly take you into a snowy fairytale, while at the same time it will delight you with the prices of the “low season”. From December to March, the resort is flooded with skiboarders, and you should be prepared for queues for the cable car, even in freezing temperatures. It is also possible to stop the operation of the cable car (cable car) for several days due to weather conditions. The end of March and the beginning of April is the most comfortable period, the snow is still lying, and the sun is already warming like spring.
May, June, October are rainy months. Be sure to bring a change of shoes and a raincoat. But in June you can admire the endless fields of blooming rhododendrons, listed in the Red Book.
Rhododendrons on Cheget Summer in the mountains is July-August, juicy green grass, the smell of strawberries, mushrooms, a photo under a waterfall and summer snow (!!!). All walking tours in the area are available during this time.
Advice! Elbrus is a border zone, you should have a passport and a pass to the border zone with you in order to freely pass (drive) along any route. Documents can be submitted in advance via the Internet at fsb.ru or gosuslugi.ru. It can take up to 30 days for a pass to be issued.
Cheget Pastime at Elbrus
Very often the question arises, what kind of entertainment is available besides contemplating natural beauty?
In winter, there are designated places for tubing, there you can also ride ice and snow scooters.
Thrill seekers can rent a snowmobile and climb above the last station of the cable car. The height of Elbrus is especially acutely felt when descending. And if you want to take your breath away with delight, we recommend taking a paragliding flight. It's never too late to check whether you are more predisposed to snowboarding or skiing. An experienced instructor will help you do it faster and with less injury. After heavy snowfalls in the morning, you can wake up from cannon shots - this is the avalanche squad working. By shelling mountain slopes, avalanches release huge masses of snow. The sight is not for the faint of heart. Horseback riding, ATV trips, fishing, overnight stay in a hotel or camp on Elbrus itself are available all year round. We recommend visiting the Museum of the Defense of the Elbrus Region - one of the highest museums in the world, which is located at the Mir station at an altitude of 3500 m above sea level. Let's face it, the museum is in bad shape and every ticket sold extends its life.
On a note! On the territory of the resort there are ski and mountaineering equipment rentals, where you can rent everything you need for your vacation.
Waterfall Maiden's Braids Those who want to test their strength can storm Elbrus. The question should be approached seriously and in advance. For experienced riders, it is possible to descend from the summit on summer snow. But we'll talk about this in more detail in another article.
By the way, the Elbrus Ring competition (International Army Games) is being held in the Elbrus region, in which servicemen of high-mountain units take part. If you witness the training of the participants, you will certainly feel pride in our fighters.
In conclusion, I would like to add that the resort is being updated and developed. A person who has come with a negative attitude will find something to complain about. And if you are full of optimism and open to new impressions, then the Elbrus region will not leave you indifferent and will invite you more than once.
Terskol gorge If you are going to visit the Elbrus region and you need a transfer or help in choosing accommodation, then feel free to write to the guys from