At one's own risk. How I was a tourist in the North Caucasus

Good time of the day, dear readers. The beginning of October is in the yard, the time of holidays for the majority of Russians is behind. For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that many of our compatriots have not had a very successful vacation this year.

The reason for this was massive problems with tour operators, many of which have suspended their activities. This circumstance, as well as tense political situation around Russia led to a sharp decline (according to some sources up to 30%) outbound tourism.

As they say, there would be no happiness - but misfortune helped. Rosstat recently reported that there is a surge in domestic tourism in the country. The Russians, for obvious reasons, began to rest more "at home" than over the hill.

Rest in the Caucasus since the times of the USSR it has been shrouded in a veil of mysteries and stereotypes. The entire territory of the North Caucasus is strewn with recreational, natural and historical centers: the medical resorts of the Stavropol Territory, the ski resorts of Sochi and Kabardino-Balkaria, the famous Dombay, the coast of the Black and Caspian Seas, oldest monuments architecture and modern skyscrapers of Grozny ...

You can continue for a long time. For example, a lot of people come just to breathe in the clean mountain air. I have a friend who visits every three years only to eat plenty of organic fruits and vegetables.

Recently, more and more often I hear from people that they would be happy to visit the Caucasus, only "it's a little scary." The arguments are different: there are strict traditions and customs, people wear burqa, a lot of nationalities, wild views among young people, rampant crime, religious fanatics ...

Do you need to consider these 10 points when planning your vacation in the Caucasus?

I will not pull the cat by the known organs, straight to the point. I confess, I'm already a little tired of answering in in social networks to the same questions about planning a vacation in the Caucasus: how to dress, what to take with you, what kind of food is there, how do they treat Russian girls, do they need to learn local languages, what is customary to give to Caucasians, how to talk to them correctly? And a million more similar questions.

In this article, I decided to reveal 10 important aspects that must be taken into account if you are planning to spend a long-awaited vacation in one of the corners of the mountainous region. In general, I am writing this article for myself, in order to give it to those who will ask me the above questions. Although, each of you will find something useful here for yourself, or write your opinion in the comments and complement me.

• Familiarize yourself with the traditions and customs of the local people in advance.

It is very important to do this, even in order not to get trapped like Shurik in the film "Prisoner of the Caucasus":

Dozens of peoples live in the Caucasus, each of them has its own traditions. Having studied a little their history and culture, you will immediately get an indisputable advantage over an unprepared person and will be able to win over the local population.

And do not say that there is no time for this or little information. The internet is just filled with comprehensive materials about traditions. Do not be lazy, read and learn the basics, so that later it would be easier for you to talk with those who will receive you.

• Try to choose more modest clothes.

North Caucasus - region unforgettable experience where, once you hit it, you will want to return again and again. The Caucasus is the splendor of nature that has conquered more than one generation of tourists, talented people, and historical figures. This is the purest mountain air, azure lakes, sparkling transparent rivers, springs of healing mineral waters, recalcitrant peaks of the great Caucasian ridge, untouched forests, breathtaking canyons, caves, waterfalls ... The Caucasus is not only rich in nature! From time immemorial, its lands were inhabited by a variety of peoples who made their own history and spread their culture. The Caucasus is a whole encyclopedia of nationalities, their rich history and cultural diversity.

Currently, the tourism potential of the Caucasus is greatly underestimated by travelers. The reasons for this are insufficient awareness of the opportunities for recreation, existing stereotypes (a la "Caucasus is a hot spot" or "They say that wild people live in the Caucasus"), high cost of recreation, poorly developed infrastructure and services, the habit of "package" rest, which our compatriots have been spoiled by Turkey and Egypt. Each reason can be devoted to a separate post, but we will limit ourselves to the main theses.

As for awareness - the Internet is full of information about the tourist Caucasus, there would be a desire to search and read. This post is also to help you. A single portal where all detailed information for a tourist, alas, so far no one has created, although the idea has been repeatedly voiced.

Regarding stereotypes, just get them out of your head. There has been no military action here for a long time, special operations, I will not conceal, occasionally happen in certain areas, which, do not worry, are often not included in the tourist zone. About "wildness" local population- also an old myth, Caucasians are a very cultured and hospitable people. However, remember that everyone has a layer of ill-mannered hamla.

For most of Russians, vacation in the North Caucasus can hardly be called budget. A significant part of the travel costs will be the cost of transport. Well, if you live in the North Caucasus Federal District or the Southern Federal District, you will spend less than, for example, tourists from Siberia or the Urals (I am silent about Far East). Low-cost airlines do not fly to the Caucasus. An air ticket from Moscow to any Caucasian city will cost on average 5000 rubles one way. It is worth waiting for the sale of tickets or special promotions for the required destinations. For example, in October of this year I purchased a ticket "Mineralnye Vody - Moscow - Mineralnye Vody" for only 6500 rubles.

With regard to service and infrastructure, the situation changes from region to region, from resort to resort, and "package" vouchers are sold only for spa treatment, which is also not offered by every region. I will divide the post into sections, each of which will be devoted to recreation in a specific region of the North Caucasus Federal District. All the hotels and resorts mentioned have been visited by me personally, which I liked - I recommend to others. You can also suggest places that you like in the comments.

For the lion's share of what I saw, I thank the company "Resorts of the North Caucasus", which through a series of blogging showed bloggers the most best places regions of the North Caucasus Federal District and allowed to "test" the rest in the North Caucasus.

1. Karachay-Cherkess Republic
TOP-5 places: Dombay, Arkhyz, Teberda, Honey waterfalls, Khabez district.
Nearest airport: Mineral water.

There is no own airport in the KCR, so get ready for a long journey. For a transfer from Minvod airport to Cherkessk - the capital of the KChR and the largest transport hub republics - 1500 rubles, and in time - 1.5-2 hours drive. There are not many places for recreation in the city, but there is a bus station, from where you can go to the glorious resorts of Karachay-Cherkessia. I advise you to use Yandex. Schedules to plan your trip.

If you still want to stay in Cherkessk, I recommend the Grand Kavkaz hotel for your stay. It is located near the center and has a good level of service. Almost all the sights of Cherkessk are within walking distance from you. This is Pervomaiskaya pedestrian street, Victory Park, Green Island, Cathedral Saint Nicholas the Wonderworker. The construction of the Cathedral Mosque will be completed in the near future. On Pervomayskaya, be sure to go to the Dahanago cafe (the average bill is 500-1000 rubles), there you will find delicious cakes of our own production. "Glamorous" youth of Cherkessk gathers in a cafe "Richi"(average check - 1000-1500 rubles), where sometimes visiting DJs play club sets in the evenings. A slightly different flavor (a la east) with hookah and private cabins you will find in the only 24-hour restaurant "Padishah"(average check - 1000-1500 rubles). On the night of the weekend, a concert or a humorous program awaits visitors, on the rest of the evenings - live music performed by our friend, the permanent host of the Arkhyz 24 TV channel and theater actor Aslan Astezhev.

In general, we took a break in Cherkessk - it's time to get out to the big resorts. Two competing tourist Mecca of Karachay-Cherkessia are Dombay and Arkhyz. They are located in neighboring gorges, but they have completely different nature and different resources for recreation.

Dombay is probably one of the most popular ski resorts in the North Caucasus. There are several cable cars - the price is here. Climbing to the very top will cost 900 rubles... Several ski slopes of different difficulty levels - for beginners, amateurs, experienced skiers and snowboarders, and for professionals. The season starts here in mid-December and ends in mid-April.

I can't recommend anything about accommodation in Dombai. I lived in a Dombai hotel once and I remember it as a bad dream, so I will not advise anything. The village itself is built up with private mini-hotels, so if you wish, you can easily find an acceptable option.

On the way to Dombay, you can stop by Teberda, as well as the Ossetian village of Kosta Khetagurova (this is a great Ossetian poet) and personally contemplate the Shoanin temple, which sends you back to the 10th century. Teberda will delight you with stunning nature, clean air and mild climate. Teberda is a resort town, center of mountaineering and hiking... It also houses a number of sanatoriums for those who are interested in improving their health.

In Arkhyz, the tourist village of Romantic is developing at a powerful pace. Launched there hotel"Romantic", a service center is open and a launch station for the cable car is in operation. So far there are only two hotels in Romantic - "Romantic-1" 4 * and "Romantic-2" 3 *. I lived in the "Romantic-2" hotel, now there is a two-bed one-room (standart twin) room. 3300 rubles for two per day, breakfast included. The hotel is pleasant, comfortable and brand new.

What to do in Arkhyz? There are tons of options for both winter and summer programs.
In winter it is, of course, skiing and snowboarding. There are great tracks of different difficulty levels. The season here also begins in December. There is no need to be afraid that the weather will let the snow down - now artificial snowmaking systems are being installed on Arkhyz. Hand-held and chairlift cable cars operate (cost 150-200 rubles for the rise).
Horseback riding is popular in summer ( 350 rubles in an hour), climbing a rope park ( 200-300 rubles per person) hiking to the Sofia lakes and waterfalls, visiting attractions - Byzantine temples, the Face of Christ, the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences, jeeping ( 400 rubles per person).

At an altitude of 1750 meters above sea level in summer, you can live in a tent camp. It will be much cheaper than staying in a hotel: per day per person - 450 rubles+ for 450 rubles you get three meals a day. The camp area is provided with the necessary sanitary and hygienic facilities (showers, toilets, washbasins), water and electricity, wireless Internet. There are cafes of Caucasian and European cuisine, snack-bar tents.

On the way to Arkhyz you will pass the Khabez district. How is it remarkable? The most beautiful mosque of the republic was built there, there on the mountain rises the Adiyukh tower, covered with myths and legends. Under the tower there is a hotel and recreation complex "Adiyukh Palace", which has long become a venue for an elite weekend among the Circassian elite.

For more budget vacation it is worth going to Honey Waterfalls where you can walk under the spray of cool waterfalls, taste dishes and drinks of the national Karachai cuisine (khychiny, ayran, susab), and saddle a horse. By the way, this small place is full of events: championships in horse riding, ayran festivals and other celebrations are regularly held here.

2. Caucasian Mineral Waters (Stavropol Territory)
TOP-5 places:Kislovodsk resort park, Mashuk mountain, Beshtau mountain, Proval, Kurortny boulevard in Kislovodsk.
Nearest airport:Mineral water.

By rest in the Stavropol Territory, I can only mean rest on the Caucasian Mineral Waters: where, if not there, are all the recreational resources of the region collected? For a long time known fact: Kavminvody is a nationwide granary and health resort. In the times of the Soviet Union, streams of holidaymakers flocked here from all parts of our vast Motherland. The intoxicating magic of the Caucasian Mineral Waters was clearly felt by the very first "brand manager" of this region - the famous poet and writer M.Yu. Lermontov. In the monologues of its protagonist in A Hero of Our Time, we are imbued with the same love that Lermontov felt for the elite resort town of Pyatigorsk at that time.

"Yesterday I arrived in Pyatigorsk, rented an apartment on the outskirts of the city, at the highest point, at the foot of Mashuk: during a thunderstorm, clouds will descend to my roof. Today, at five o'clock in the morning, when I opened the window, my room was filled with the smell of flowers growing in a modest front garden. Branches of cherry blossoms look out of my windows, and the wind sometimes strews their white petals on my desk. I have a wonderful view from three sides. To the west - the five-headed Beshtau turns blue like "the last cloud of a scattered storm"; to the north rises Mashuk like a shaggy Persian hat, and covers this entire part of the sky; it's more fun to look to the east: below in front of me a clean, brand new town is dazzling, healing springs are rustling, a multilingual crowd is rustling - and there, further on, an amphitheater - mountains are piling up, all blue and foggy, and on the edge of the horizon stretches a silver chain of snow peaks, starting with Kazbek and ending with two-headed Elbrus ... It's fun to live in such a land! old and fresh as the kiss of a child; the sun is bright, the sky is blue - what would seem to be more? Why are passions, desires, regrets here? .. "M. Yu. LERMONTOV." Princess Mary "May 11, 1838

Magic lines, isn't that so?

Traditionally, 4 cities are referred to the KMV cities - Pyatigorsk, Kislovodsk, Zheleznovodsk, Yessentuki, however, geographically, the Caucasian Mineral Water Resources includes much more territories. In these four cities there are rows of sanatoriums, drinking galleries, healing baths, and healing parks. It is believed that each resort city has its own medical profile, however, modern equipment and the desire to withstand the competitive race have forced the majority of sanatoriums to practice treatment and rehabilitation for the widest range of diseases. Unfortunately, so far there is no single portal on which all information on the health institutions of Kavminvod would be collected and ordered, so the sanatorium will have to be selected through independent search official sites or with the help of an agency.

At one time, I made a good choice in favor of the Elita sanatorium (from 2900 rubles per person per day). This is real Turkish " all inclusive", though in Kislovodsk style. The mentioned price includes accommodation, three meals a day, treatment, free access to SPA (swimming pool, hammam, Finnish sauna, jacuzzi with hydromassage), gym, air solarium (this type of sunbathing in summer is possible on sun loungers on the roof) , free use of the fireplace rooms according to your needs, cultural program.The sanatorium is private and new, without "sovkosti", accommodates up to 80 guests, which means that your vacation will be almost like a family.

And in my soul I still live in the city of Pyatigorsk. This is my favorite city. There is more life here compared to other KMV cities due to the younger population (there are many universities in Pyatigorsk) and the status of the capital of the North Caucasus Federal District near the city, which makes it the center of event tourism in the North Caucasus. Here I recommend the Pyatigorsk hotel (from 1300 rubles), "Nautilus" (from 2000 rubles), "Intourist" (from 2200 rubles), "Beshtau" (from 3100 rubles) and "Golden Hotel" (from 3500 rubles). All of them are located in the city center and have a pleasant enough room fund for every taste and pocket. Especially appreciate the three recent hotels for a gorgeous view from the window / from the balcony.

From catering establishments I can also advise a lot, but the art club "Picasso" (live program, creative audience, excellent service), the summer lounge cafe "Bolshoy Balcon" in the shopping center "Gallery" (in the fresh air, beautiful view on the city, author's cuisine), "Rendezvous" at "Intourist", "Khantama" at Ordzhonikidze and "Proval" at Proval are not bad. The price tags are different, the geography is also different. In general, restaurant life in Pyatigorsk is in full swing, so over the weekend you yourself will be able to compile your own shortlist of your favorite establishments.

However, this is not why you came to Kavminvody to eat and sleep. In Pyatigorsk, a lot of attractions await you - Lake Proval, where, at the entrance to the grotto, the sculpture of Ostap Bender still collects money from tourists; Lermontov grotto and museum, Eolova Harp, Chinese gazebo, drinking galleries, famous sculpture eagle - the symbol of the Caucasus Mineral Resources, "Broadway" - Kirov Avenue with mass celebrations of holiday-makers, Mashuk and Beshtau mountains. A tip for those who want to be in trend: morning jogging on Mashuk and hiking on Beshtau are popular among Pyatigorsk youth.

You will feel a different spirit in Kislovodsk: life here flows more measured and calmer. Less opportunities for parties, more kilometers for walking: you have at your disposal the second largest in Europe - the Kislovodsk spa park. Take a walk to your health! Also remember that Kislovodsk is the birthplace of "Narzan": for it you can go to the Narzan gallery on Kurortny Boulevard. There you can also find the Narzan Baths building - a magnificent architectural monument. It is a shame that the institution is closed these days. In the suburbs of Kislovodsk, you can visit the Ring Mountain - a gate formed by nature. A stunning view of Kislovodsk opens up from there. Another interesting place is the Castle of Treachery and Love, covered with legends. True, now there is a restaurant ... :(

3. Kabardino-Balkar Republic
TOP-5 places: Elbrus, Blue Lakes, Chegem waterfalls, Upper Balkaria, Dolinsk (Nalchik).
Nearest airport: Nalchik.

Kabardino-Balkaria is a territory of world famous beauties and upcoming amazing discoveries. The most high peak Russia and Europe - the handsome Elbrus, the unexplored depths of the Blue Lakes and the unexplored paths to the Shadhurei lakes, the grandiose Chegem waterfalls, Upper Balkaria - the land where the mountains meet the sky. Such is the amazing beauty of Kabardino-Balkaria, in short.

The capital of Kabardino-Balkaria has resort area- Dolinsk district. There are many sanatoriums, recreation centers, a huge park area. If you need to stay in Nalchik for a couple of days, I recommend the Korona Hotel (from 1500 rubles per day). In the city, I advise you to visit the Atazhukinsky Garden, observation deck near the restaurant "Sosruko", see the sights of the main avenue of the city. You will like the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria - it is a nice, cozy garden city with a measured flowing life.

But you shouldn't sit in Nalchik for a long time, since you have already decided to come to Kabardino-Balkaria. In the Chegem gorge you will find the Chegem waterfalls - one of the most picturesque places republics. In the Cherek Gorge there are the popular Blue Lakes, a group of 5 karst lakes. The most interesting is the Lower Lake. There is a diving center on it, but, despite this, no one has ever reached the bottom of the lake. According to approximate data, it is 368 meters. If you want to see more than the average tourist, I suggest you go in search of the Shadhurei lakes in the Zolsk region of the KBR. It's underrated, unpopular tourist destination but the beauty of the lakes, rest assured, will captivate you. Other interesting places are the remains of ancient settlements in Upper Balkaria, crypts in the village of El-Tyubu, the healing lake Tambukan and the Dzhily-Su waterfall.

Regarding the organization of recreation in Kabardino-Balkaria, I recommend contacting the tour operator "KBR Travel". I trust you to these people.

Well, and of course, what kind of rest in the KBR is without visiting the largest tourist and recreational complex in the North Caucasus "Prielbrusye"? This world center tourism, mountaineering and skiing. Both amateurs and professionals of mountaineering and winter sports come here. In the Elbrus region, there is also a balneological zone - Polyana Narzanov, famous for its carbonated mineral waters. On the Narzan Glade you can enjoy the mountain beauty and clean air, taste the healing narzan directly from the spring spring.

I recommend staying in the new European-class hotel Azau Star (from 3000 rubles per day per room) in the village of Elbrus. The hotel is located near the station of the hand-held cable car in the Azau glade at the foot of Elbrus (2200 meters above sea level). There is a possibility of skiing from the door of the hotel. The hotel has its own SPA center and a cozy restaurant with delicious cuisine. Many windows, a lot of light, a magical atmosphere is created by the "Relax FM" radio, enveloping the hotel corridors with melodic sound.

One-time cable car pass costs 400-500 rubles... There are four stations on the slope of Elbrus: the starting station is Azau (2300 m.), The second is Stary Krugozor (3000 m.), The third is Mir (3500 m.) and on the chair-lift), the fourth - "Garabashi" (3780 m.) (only on the chair-lift).

4. Republic of North Ossetia-Alania
TOP-5 places:Kazbek, Uastyrdzhi monument, Dargavssky necropolis, Midagrabin waterfalls, history Center Vladikavkaz.
Nearest airport:Vladikavkaz (Beslan).

Long before my move to the Caucasus, on the Ossetian soil, I felt at home, and even now I love to come to this beautiful republic. Accordingly, as in Pyatigorsk, I have several hotels here, in which I constantly stay. This is "Planet Lux" (from 1600 rubles per day) near NOSU named after Kosta Khetagurov and "Vladikavkaz" (from 2450 rubles per day ) on the banks of the Terek near the Sunni mosque - an architectural monument. The first option is cheaper, and the second I love for the incomparable view from the window (you need to ask for a room with a view of the Terek at the reception) and cheesecakes for breakfast :) The panorama from the balcony of the room in Vladikavkaz is really captivating: a gorgeous view of the the noisy waters and the Kosta Khetagurov park, and if you are lucky with good weather, then the Table Mountain.

If you have some free time in Vladikavkaz, I suggest you go for a walk around the city. There is a wonderful hiking route along the most beautiful streets: from the monument to Isa Pliev - across the bridge to the other bank of the Terek - past the Armenian Church, then - along Miru Avenue (pedestrian zone, trees, benches, scurrying trams, city radio that sets an excellent mood) or through the Kosta Khetagurov Park - and again through the Terek - to the Vladikavkaz hotel and the mosque. Or you can continue along Mira Avenue, walk to the Yevgeny Vakhtangov Theater and the monument to Mikhail Bulgakov.

Be sure to try the famous Ossetian pies. And - Ossetian beer, which leaves even the opponents of beer indifferent. From catering establishments, where I was, I recommend "White Cafe" (average bill - 700-1000 rubles), "Salvadore" (average bill - 1000-1500 rubles) and "Our" (average check - 500-700 rubles).

Probably the most famous landmark of North Ossetia is Mount Kazbek, the highest peak in the republic and popular place for climbers from all over the world. From the Russian side, climbing it is possible from the Genaldon gorge through the villageKarmadonNorth Ossetia. This route can only be mastered by physically trained climbers.

But you don't have to be a climber to love mountains. The splendor of the nature of mountainous North Ossetia is available to ordinary tourists. Moreover, in this part of the republic a lot of surprises await you - the Uastyrdzhi monument, the Dzivgis cave fortress, the Mykalgabyrta sanctuary, the Dargavs necropolis, Midagrabin waterfalls and much, much more.

If you want to spend the night in the mountains, I recommend going to the Fiagdon Gorge. Firstly, it is fabulously beautiful there, and secondly, you can visit the holy places (Alansky Uspensky male monastery and its font), thirdly, there is some kind of tourist infrastructure, though for lovers of superior relaxation. You can stay overnight at the Fiagdon art hotel (room - from 6000 rubles per day). Here I also recommend visiting the "Valley of the Sun" restaurant (average bill - 750 rubles) with a picturesque view outside the window, delicious cuisine and a cozy atmosphere.

5. Republic of Ingushetia
TOP-5 places:Armhi, Vovnushki, Erzi, Magas, Memorial of memory and glory.
Nearest airport: Magas.

What could be interesting for a tourist Ingushetia? The republic has its own all-season resort - Armkhi. The huge territory of Ingushetia - Dzheyrakhsky district - can be safely called a museum under open air for its countless tower complexes and ancient temples. And, finally, it is an enjoyable look at the new capital of Ingushetia - the city of Magas with its majestic sights. An important point- You can go around the whole republic in a couple of hours, so even over the weekend you will have time to enjoy the first, and the second, and the third.

From 3500 rubles costs a night in one of my favorite hotels - Artis Plaza in Magas. The rooms here are reminiscent of the Sultan's chambers. In addition, the hotel has a sauna, hot tub, Turkish bath and massage services - for a fee, you can feel even more like a sultan.

Before reaching Nazran, it is worth stopping at the Memorial of Memory and Glory. This object will tell you about the historical events that the Ingush people had to go through - deportation, participation in various hostilities. On the way to the Armkhi resort, you will pass many places in the Dzheyrakh region that are also worth your attention. It is ancient christian temple Tkhaba-Yerdy, tower complexes of Vovnushki, Erzi, Egikal and other tribal villages.

And when you pass the strongest tests of beauty national treasure Ingushetia, the doors of the "Armkhi" health-improving complex at the all-season resort of the same name will hospitably open before you. This is the oldest health resort in the Caucasus: hydrotherapy, mud therapy, massage and much more are practiced here to heal ailments. In the rooms, the purest spring water flows from the tap, and the air "overboard" is especially healing - due to the maintenance of linden and coniferous trees in the park of the resort. Room prices here start at 1500 rubles, separately 1475 rubles there is a day of spa treatment with three meals a day.

For entertainment - a swimming pool, a fitness center, a Russian bath, in winter - skiing, snowboarding and snowmobiling, in the summer - a rope park and walks along terrenkura. There is a cable car.

6. Chechen Republic
TOP-5 places: Grozny-City, the Heart of Chechnya mosque, the Aymani Kadyrova mosque, Kezenoy-Am, the Alley of Glory memorial complex.
Nearest airport: Grozny.

Recently, a tourist complex of the same name was opened on Lake Kezenoy-Am. For now, guests can only entertain themselves with a visit to the restaurant, gym and walks around the lake. There is also a mosque on the territory of the complex. Work on the development of the resort is endless, but there is already a place to stay on the popular lake. Lake Kezenoy-Am - of incredible beauty, is considered the largest alpine lake North Caucasus. And the most beautiful, - I think.

In the tourist complex, prices do not bite yet. For example, in an economy class room, you can stay for 700 rubles per person. If I'm not mistaken, the price includes half board meals (breakfasts + dinners).

Kezenoy-Am is located a two-hour drive from Grozny, and, of course, it is worth starting any trip around the Chechen Republic with it. In the city itself you can find a lot interesting places... First, there is the Akhmad-Hadji Kadyrov Mosque called "The Heart of Chechnya" - one of the largest in Russia and one of the leaders of the sensational "Russia 10" Internet voting, in which the top 10 sights of the country were selected. Secondly, this is a complex of high-rise buildings "Grozny City" - there is a hotel, a business center, and an apartment building, where the famous citizen of the Russian Federation Gerard de Pardieu now has housing. Third and fourth - Memorial complex "Walk of Fame" and National Museum Of the Chechen Republic - places where the history of the Chechen Republic and the entire North Caucasus is carefully preserved.

In the spring, another one of the most beautiful mosques in Russia was opened in Chechnya - the Aimani Kadyrova Mosque in Argun. However, do not think that all the sights of Chechnya were built recently. On the territory of the republic, very old historical monuments have been preserved - the crypts of Tsoi-Pede (14th century), the Phakoch Castle (12th century), and only recently the Ushkaloi towers (12th century) were reconstructed.

If you want to see the sights of mountainous Chechnya and travel without a car, I recommend contacting the tour operator "Chechnya Travel". In addition to individual excursions, they will be happy to offer you package tours in Chechnya with accommodation, meals, excursions, cultural programs and transfers.

For those who want to improve their health in Chechnya, there is the Sernovodsk-Kavkazsky resort. There are many treatment profiles, but the main curative factor is hydrogen sulfide thermal springs.

7. Republic of Dagestan
TOP-5 places:Caspian Sea (!), Derbent, Sary-Kum dune, Sulak canyon, Irganai reservoir.
Nearest airport: Makhachkala.

I put an exclamation mark in front of the Caspian Sea for a reason: Dagestan is the only republic in the North Caucasus where there is access to the sea. While other subjects of the North Caucasus Federal District are busy with the construction and development of their ski resorts, Dagestan is calm: it has no competitors in a beach vacation with its sea and climate.

As an option for accommodation - the base of FC "Anji" in Kaspiysk. The base consists of several apartments, a swimming pool and bars on site. The beach is within walking distance. You can also look at other offers - in Kaspiysk, Makhachkala and Derbent. I warn you right away: this is not Spain or even Turkey, so do not expect high-class service.

In Makhachkala, you can comfortably stay at the Abu Dagi hotel ( 3000 rubles per day), which is considered one of best hotels the capital of Dagestan. There are spacious rooms, luxurious interiors, own fitness room and SPA center. A significant disadvantage: it is still far from the city center and the Gordian beach.

It is worth going to Dagestan not only for beach vacation, but also for a wide excursion program. You probably cannot even imagine how beautiful Dagestan is and how rich its history is! Must-see places:
- Sand dune Sary-Kum - a sudden find among the mountains of Dagestan;
- Sulak canyon - the second deepest canyon in the world;
- Derbent is the most ancient and Southern City Russia;
- Gunib - a village with breathtaking views of the surroundings, as well as an important historical site: the legendary Imam Shamil was taken prisoner here;
- Chirkeyskaya HPP - the largest hydroelectric power plant in the North Caucasus;
- The Irganai reservoir is not inferior in beauty to the Chirkei reservoir ...
... and many many others!

And further:
1) In any city you can find an accommodation option for every pocket.
2) The Caucasus is an excellent option for a weekend getaway, but for this option it is reasonable to spend money only for residents of the North Caucasus Federal District and the Southern Federal District. I advise Muscovites to catch discounts on air tickets.
3) If you are going to the Caucasus on vacation in the off-season, it would be great to combine visiting several regions in one trip. Distance between major cities- small, 1-2 hours drive. An exception is Makhachkala. This is how I planned my first tour to the Caucasus: I arrived by train to Kislovodsk, spent 2 weeks on rest and treatment in the Caucasus Mineral Resources with excursions to neighboring Karachay-Cherkessia, then by bus to North Ossetia, spent one day there, the next day - in Ingushetia, in the evening I stopped in Grozny, the next morning - flew from Beslan to Moscow.

When traveling in the Caucasus, remember that you are exploring the most popular tourist destination inland. The development of engineering infrastructure is in full swing here, new hotels are being built, new resorts are being launched, new tourist trails are being laid. If you have ever been to the Caucasus, do not dismiss the idea of ​​visiting it again - it changes from year to year, and, perhaps, having arrived at familiar places, you will no longer recognize them!

So, welcome to the resorts of the North Caucasus! :)

A Medialeaks correspondent spent two weeks in the Caucasus in one of the most popular winter resorts having managed to enjoy all the delights of domestic tourism. Having survived extortions, theft and almost becoming an unwitting accomplice in the crime, OLGA KHOKHRYAKOVA tells what you need to be prepared for when going to rest in the North Caucasus instead of Egypt and Turkey.

Two categories of people come to the Caucasus: skiers (snowboarders and skiers) - their majority - and just tourists who like to breathe fresh air and wake up with a view of the mountains outside the window.

Our small company belongs to the first category. And for several years now we have been traveling to the most different parts of Russia, we study the country almost every holidays. For example, last year winter holidays we spent in the Arctic Circle - near Murmansk, where there are also ski resorts. And this year we decided to try the classics of alpine skiers - the Caucasus.

We rested in famous resort Prielbrusye (Kabardino-Balkarian Republic), which is 200 km from the airport of Mineralnye Vody. There are two resorts here - at the Cheget glade and at the Azau glade. There are 5 km of path between them. We lived on Cheget, and skated mainly in Azau - this is more large resort with tracks of different difficulty levels.

Get ready for extortion

Two weeks in the Caucasus New Year cost us about 70 thousand per person, including tickets, accommodation, ski passes (a card that gives you the right to use the lifts) and food. As well as unforeseen expenses, which should be prepared financially when traveling to the Caucasus.

From the first days, you start to get the feeling that you are being pulled out of you at every step. Here, in general, everything costs 100 rubles (and multiples of them). And here you have to pay for everything - this is how the system works.

First, the taxi. Public transport here is not, has not been and probably will not be, although the resort has existed for more than a decade. Everything is divided between private traders, who have fixed prices, below which they do not carry. For example, how much does it cost to drive 5 km from one resort to another? 300 rubles per car. In Moscow, for this money, you can easily agree to get from Kitay-Gorod to Ostankino.

For the transportation of passengers with snowboards, skis and poles, the trunk of every domestic passenger car is equipped here (and there are no other cars, except for a few private minibuses). I still didn't understand how they fix the equipment in the trunk, but one day our driver didn't even close it. I drove all the way, looking back, especially since it was a hatchback.

If someone comes here and carries people cheaper, they will quickly knock him on the head and kick him out of the clearing, '' said our taxi driver, with whom we became friends.

And when, after the New Year, the flow of tourists increased, a traffic police post appeared on the way, which divided the road into two parts. So I had to pay 200 before the post, then go with skis through the post, gather people for a big minibus and another 50 rubles per person.

If you want to go somewhere other than the slopes, the prices are as follows: from the Elbrus region to the Chegem waterfalls - 3000 rubles per car. If you capture more thermal source from Nalchik - 5,000 rubles. To get to Grozny and back - 8,000 rubles.

And to rudeness

From the moment you paid the money, no one else owes you anything.

Let's keep silent that the prices for the ski pass for Azau have grown 2.5 times - from 900 rubles to 2200 per day. Here we must remember that at any time they can hang a magic sign at the cash register of any content.

For example, we bought a ski pass before the New Year, and for it (for the card itself) 100 rubles are pledged. And when they came to ride a couple of days later - after the New Year - they saw a sign "Old-style cards are not accepted."

Will you return the deposit?

Of course not, - the cashier said categorically.

No, she wasn't joking. We were not just not given a deposit, they refused to change the card to a new one, so we had to pay another 100 rubles as a deposit for new card... And it seems like they are, these hundred rubles, but this happens at every step.

How is it that you take a deposit and then don’t return it?

You should have dealt the card earlier.

Of course, no one warned us that the cards could suddenly change. Moreover, a couple of days before that I asked the cashiers when prices would rise, and they said “we don’t know”. And they did not say anything about the fact that it is better to deal cards, otherwise they will not accept them later. And there was no sign.

But there was another sign that says: if anything, all your problems. Have you bought a ski pass and the cable car is closed due to weather conditions? Money is not returned - you yourself must follow the forecast and assess the situation (money is returned only if the entire resort is closed).

And they always sell ski passes for all cable cars, even those that are closed.

Is there a cable car to Garabashi station?

And yesterday you told me that it also works before Peace. And it was closed.

Who told you that? - the cashier hatched.

You told me personally.

They can sell a ski pass to you to any point, saying that it works. But how it really is - you will find out only there.

Remember to pay tribute

Does your taxi driver want to enter the Cheget glade at the height of the day, when there are a lot of people interested? A man immediately appears, stands in front of the entrance with a wad of money and collects from everyone who wants to pass.

Do you need a children's lift? It looks something like this, although this photo is not from the Elbrus region:

And it is free in Europe, near Murmansk, but everywhere. An uncle stands here and collects 20 rubles for the rise. No checks or cash registers.

Tell me, is that children's lift over there for a fee?

I don’t know, ”the cashier snaps displeasedly.

Do you know if he doesn’t belong to you?

No - and closes the window.

Yes, this is another feature of the Caucasus - if usually "one resort - one owner - one ski pass," then whoever managed to sit down.

Toilets are also a separate business, because it is difficult to find a cafe at any of the stations where it will be. And why, if you can put it separately, then people will have to go through the cold and pay another 20-30 rubles.

Don't expect quality for your money

It would seem that for 2,200 a day the level should not be lower than the post-Olympic Sochi level, where ski passes were sold for 2,500 this season. But here:

The queues for buying tickets in 3 windows, in which those who sleep have to stand for an hour, turn into a homogeneous mass;

The queue to the booth on the cable car is also not regulated in any way, although there is a special person who could let a certain number of people through the passage frame. Several times before our very eyes, almost fights almost happened, but this did not really bother the special person - he made sure that two did not pass on the same ticket;

They don't care about safety here

This became clear two years ago, after a high-profile story with a zorb at another popular ski resort in the Caucasus - Dombay. Where tourists who paid 300 rubles were offered a ride in a zorb. Once he flew out of the slope. One of the tourists was killed, the second was hospitalized.

Zorb is not offered in the Elbrus region, but it is far from safe skiing here. There are practically no fences anywhere on Azau. On Cheget, which is considered one of the most dangerous mountains, I have not seen one at all. And it is there that people die every year. Tragedy happened in this too.

We heard that an avalanche descended on Cheget.

They talked about this in a booth on the cable car. When we descended, details came to us - three people died under an avalanche.

Half an hour later, already in the room, we answered numerous missed calls from our parents and explained that today we skated in the wrong place. Although a couple of days ago ...

The news reported that two girls from Moscow, born in 1990 and 1991, and a man from St. Petersburg, born in 1973, were skating in the wrong place. Well, that is, they say, they themselves are to blame.

“The southern slopes of Cheget are closed for skiing. The track is marked and there are clear indications that you cannot ski there. People ignore the warnings and as a result, a tragedy occurs, ”TASS quoted the head of the press service of the North Caucasus Regional Center for Emergencies.

True, he did not specify what instructions were in question. Most likely because they are not actually there. I was on the tracks and went out to freeride, on Cheget I did not see a single net, not a single fence, not a single table or sign that would show where the track starts and ends. It remains only to focus on others.

Moreover, Cheget is officially positioned as a freeride track, and tickets are sold there for those who love its steep off-piste slopes. Here, for example, is a map of Cheget from the official site of the "Elbrus Resort":

Areas for freeriding are marked in purple. Designated. And as you can see, they are the majority. But even here at the checkout there is a magic sign that says that due to weather conditions, skiing is not recommended. On this plate, apparently, the responsibility of the resort ends. And in Switzerland, there are special cannons that blow up avalanche-prone places so that no one accidentally causes a descent.

The description also says about the southern slopes, which, according to the local Ministry of Emergency Situations, are allegedly not intended for skiing.

Moreover, the Ministry of Emergency Situations reported that 28 service officers were looking for the bodies of the victims, although not a single one is visible on the video of Channel One, but there are guys who look like ordinary skiers and snowboarders.

“All three victims were removed from the avalanche on Cheget. 28 rescuers took part in the search work on the avalanche outflow cone about 100 meters long, 30-40 meters wide and with a snow height of up to 10 meters, "Interfax-Yug quoted Kantemir Davydov, head of the press service of the Russian Emergencies Ministry's ICRC.

And the Ministry of Emergency Situations reported that “the employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations conduct briefings and talks, distribute booklets and memos about avalanche danger, rules of conduct in the mountains (including English language), bring the weather forecast for the coming day and remind you of a single emergency call number "112".

True, neither I, nor any of my friends have seen this.

Be prepared for an unexpected setup

For two weeks we have almost got used to rudeness and extortion, especially since the Caucasus is a part of Russia in which we all grew up. But what happened next went beyond even Russian recreation.

On New Year's Eve, in one of the bars in the Cheget glade, our phone was stolen. He was in our pocket, we took pictures, and then, after having fun on the dance floor, he simply was gone. Impressions from the holiday were spoiled, I had to put up with it. Was it the fault of the groups of Caucasians, who all in black entered the bar from time to time, stood at the exit without undressing, and then also left, or who else is unknown.

But after 6 days we got a call. Or rather, the father of the owner of the stolen phone. A certain Jamal called and said that an iPhone was found in his stolen car, which was found in Nalchik. At first, he really said that he was white, but then he corrected himself, because ours was black. It is not clear what he wanted, but he hinted that "if he thought that we had stolen the car, we would have been sitting there already."

The owner of the phone called back as soon as he found out about Jamal. But the phone was answered by a woman who introduced herself as his wife. She spoke extremely rudely, inquired with hints where this phone was from in their stolen car and showed by all means that she did not want to discuss anything. In this conversation, one thing became clear - they live a few kilometers from us, in the Elbrus region. They didn’t call again, they didn’t answer SMS, she dropped the phone on the next call.

So we were left alone with the thought that it was good that the phone was not found at the scene of the murder. And with the stupid feeling that someone who knows that the phone is stolen and even knows the owner is not leading the ear to give it back.

After that, it became more uncomfortable than ever. It suddenly became clear that here you are really on your own. You experience something similar just driving through the republics: from Kabardino-Balkaria through North Ossetia and Ingushetia to Chechnya, to Grozny. Where is the stele "Grozny - the center of the world", where Vladimir Putin Avenue flows into Akhmat Kadyrov Avenue, where in fact it was much calmer than in Ingushetia, although we saw it from the car window. Where at every border of the republic the car is stopped by armed traffic policemen.

What are the conclusions? When we landed at Domodedovo, our entire company breathed a sigh of relief. Nobody plans to return to the Caucasus anymore. Because in recent years, nothing has changed there, and in order for something to change, you need not just pour money into it, but follow, study, delve into.

It would seem, why else did the government order to create in 2010 the company "Resorts of the North Caucasus", which manages ski resorts in the south of Russia?

“The total cost of the tourism cluster project, including in the development of industries related to tourism, involves attracting over 450 billion rubles to the region. investment. Of these, 60 billion rubles. - these are state investments, 390 billion - funds of private investors, "- says the company's website.

The main shareholders of KSK are the state represented by JSC "Special Economic Zones", among the founders are also "Sberbank" and "Vnesheconombank", the website says.

The plenipotentiary of the president in the North Caucasus Federal District, Alexander Khloponin, came to the opening of the third line at Azau, although after he left, it was immediately closed.

So what has actually changed over the past 10 years: in one of the most dangerous resorts Cheget - nothing. New slopes have really appeared on Azau, 3 stages of a new cable car have been built. But most importantly, the resort still has the feeling that nothing is controlled, that this is some kind of local Caucasian business, and not a strategically important area for the government. What do they think here not about the safety of vacationers, but only about their money.

True, the air in the Caucasus is truly amazing, both nature and its gifts. And nice people, of course, meet.

As a psychotherapist, I know better than others that in our life every person can be inadequate. But I never thought that my wife and I, a professional psychologist, are crazy capable of an endless series of crazy things. In short, judge for yourself.

The history of our move from Siberia to the Caucasus is so chaotic that I will present it not in chronological order, but in the course of the arrival of fragmentary memories. I will leave without a description for the time being 3 years of slavery; 3.5 years of life without a passport and how my former student, a young and beautiful university teacher, refuses to defend her candidate, leaves the department and becomes my wife. I will not tell you how I got an American driver's license earlier than a Russian passport, and it’s free of charge.

My wife Svetlana and I lived on the outskirts in a small house, which I managed to acquire, despite the fact that I had no rights. I was drawn very strongly to the Caucasus, to my homeland. My former Grozny patients, having found me on the Internet, presented me with a small house in a small village in the Stavropol Territory.

I sold my house near Kemerovo, if it can be called a sale: I gave the documents for the house to a buyer who promised to pay off in May. Naturally, I was going to leave in May in my Moskvichonka - 412. Alas, the dream was not destined to come true in time, because constantly and well my customer ran from me until November, until it dawned on me that I was a sucker and “it’s useless to wait for the weather from the sea”.

What would a normal person, who was left without money, do in our place? He would sell the property, send the container to its destination, and calmly board a passing train. But we were not destined to avoid difficult adventures, because I decided in November to drive my hard worker, packed only with summer tires, which do not like high revs and gobble up gasoline like a Japanese truck.

I must also say that we have two dogs: one is Dina, a piebald hound was presented to me as a small puppy. The second - Ryzhik, looking like a fox, abandoned his owners and quietly moved to our house, having made friends with Dina beforehand. Naturally, we could not betray the dogs and leave them behind.

And 3 years ago, having decided to leave, in the afternoon we packed our Moskvich: 2 computers and 2 monitors were loaded on the roof. In order not to beat them around and between the "iron" they put bed linen, clothes, shoes and the rest of the shukhry-flies. We covered the pyramid above the car with polyethylene, covered it with duct tape and tightened it with ropes. The result is something caricatured like a Subarik minibus. I threw all the parts out of the trunk, filling it with important things, according to my wife.

The journey began at about ten o'clock in the evening, in complete darkness. My Moskvich started up easily, despite the November frost. The dogs settled down in the back seat, the wife sat down beside her, and the wheels spun in the direction of Yurga, away from the "Tuleyev Khanate".

I'm glad - goodbye Kemerovo!

Having passed Yurga, I was glad that I jumped out of the Kemerovo region. The wheels of my car spun, taking me further from the cold edges towards the Caucasian sun, and my thoughts went to memories, to the fact that my driver's license, obtained in the United States, was not a document authorizing driving in Russia.

There was an order from Mr. Nurgaliev, which sounded something like this: "If a person is a citizen of the Russian Federation, is registered in it for more than two months, then he must travel with national rights." I was twice stopped by the traffic police and fined 1000 rubles each, indicating in the protocol: “I was driving without a driver’s license.” Then they let go - keep going. They were not interested in the old man and his "Moskvichonok". How could I not be delighted and not remember America and Canada, where I freely rented a car with the help of old Russian license, similar to a shabby piece of paper. I calmly crossed the borders, and no one stopped me.

So, during the night I got to the junction leading me towards Omsk. My joy was so great that I did not fit into the turn on the ice, and my Moskvich-412 flew past, and when I stopped, he performed an ice dance, spinning around its axis, five times. The only thing saved from the accident was that there were no oncoming trucks early in the morning.

Having gone through a little stress, having caught my breath a little, I enter the viaduct and step on the gas. It is a thousand miles to Omsk. The car runs forward, winding kilometers. The road is slippery, but for some reason I am not worried and I drive at high revs. The speedometer needle runs between 100 and 120 kilometers. There are many traffic police posts along the way. But they do not want to slow me down, defiantly turn away, seeing the brand of the car, its awkward staffing and realizing that there is an old man on whom you’ll waste your nerves and don’t get too much.

So I flew another 600 kilometers, with two stops for a snack and a dog's toilet. I feel - I'm tired and now I will pass out. I put pressure on the gas to cover another hundred kilometers. But here my "horse" could not stand, - the gasket under the block head burst. Got up. We slept for a couple of hours. I vote to be taken in tow, but the cars fly by without slowing down. Quit voting, cursing. Frost began to get. A "Mercedes" minibus is on the way. I stand with hopelessly lowered hands, thinking that the bourgeois in such cars do not pay attention to those in need of help. "Mears" braked, backed up and a black-haired young guy got out from there: "Get out the cable. And let my wife sit in my cabin and get warm ”.

Having dragged me 150 kilometers to the camping, he helped push my cripple into a car service workshop. I, having agreed with the masters about replacing the gasket and oil, entered the hotel. The guy, who called himself Mikola, stood next to his wife and they talked about something with my half: “Make yourself comfortable in the room, go downstairs in half an hour, we will have dinner together,” he said.

The world is not without good people

I don't know what they were talking about in the warm cabin of the Mers while I was freezing, in my car. But, most likely, my wife told about me that I graduated from the Lviv Medical Institute, I know Polish and Ukrainian languages ​​and much more, in beautiful colors. This became clear to me when we went downstairs and sat down at a table in a cafe: the table was set.

In the middle was a decanter with half a liter of vodka, and my savior spoke to me in the Western Ukrainian dialect. He said that they were in a hurry to go home. they received a call that the child was ill; his wife is Moldovan and went to Siberia to visit her relatives.

He paid for the vodka dinner in advance. Mikola did not drink, and I registered the whole decanter. From his responsiveness and hospitality I smelled like native Grozny, where I, like my friends, could invite them to a restaurant and quietly pay the waiter; where I could enter any house and I will be sure to be fed; where my children rushed about with a crowd of peers and they emptied my and any other refrigerator from top to bottom.

Waking up in the morning, my wife and I, without breakfast, went to the car service. I started the car and drove onto the track. I just turned onto the road - the car stalled. After fiddling with her for about 10 minutes, I realized that I would not start and headed to the service. There I saw a mocking attitude, a reluctance to do anything, I realized that talking is useless. Returning to his wheelbarrow unsuitable for continuing the journey, he decided to vote, hoping for a tug. At this time, my saviors, having breakfast, got into their car and drove onto the track. Mikola, apparently immediately guessing what had happened, slowed down and said to me with a laugh: “Let's get the cable. There are 150 kilometers to Omsk. Don't start the engine, I'll drag you to the turn to the city, there will be 15 kilometers left. From the turn I will jerk towards the house. " We drove forward to continue the adventure.

Stopping at the turn to Omsk, I warmly thanked the savior angels and we said goodbye, never to meet again, but to remember the adventure and friend, friend.

It didn't take long to vote at the bend. With a wave of my hand, ZIL stopped, took me in tow, my wife went back to the warm cabin. And again, thanks to the colorful stories of my wife, a kind person was on our way. He dragged me to the house where my mother-in-law lived, but refused the money.

Father-in-law and mother-in-law, my peers, received us perfectly. They spoke with a neighbor. He went to a car repair shop, then hooked my "bucket" to his "Toyota" and we arrived at the place of repair. There they agreed to sort out the engine in two days for 6 thousand Russian rubles. the oil was in the crankcase, and the liner turned. The repair took up to ten days. Father-in-law and mother-in-law received us perfectly, shared some money, and the dogs were placed on the balcony.

Ten days later we drove towards the Urals, to new impressions. I didn’t draw any conclusions from my past adventures and I was still pushing on the gas. It ended with the fact that in front of Zlatoust, the gasket was again broken, the antifreeze began to fill one cylinder. Sneezing and coughing, my Moskvich reached the city towards the dark. I parked the car in front of the station and went to look for a place to sleep. Seeing the police station, I looked in there and asked for help with an overnight stay. at the station they said that there were no rooms in the hotel, and the station was closed for the night. I looked at the animals, which, after checking my documents, began to be rude. My self-control and calmness nevertheless led to the fact that my wife and I were allowed to roll over at the station. In the morning I found a taxi driver who took us to the parking lot of the auto repair shop. The watchman phoned the owner and we were given a room for the night. The only thing that was asked was to thoroughly heat the room, which I gladly did. There were some holidays, and we had to wait 3 days, having tea with the watchman.

When the owner appeared, I told him that I could not allocate more than a thousand rubles for repairs. He called the foreman and the next day, in the morning I drove out towards Bashkiria, vowing to myself not to gasp and rape the engine anymore.

Adventures in Bashkiria

The road ran across the plain. I kept the speed no more than 100 km. The whole day I drove without getting tired, and stopped at a "fun" auto camping. He parked the car among the trucks, and went to the administrator about an overnight stay. All around was full of drunks: someone was bawling songs, someone was persuading a friend to give it to him, someone was sorting out the relationship with their fists.

Having paid 500 rubles, my wife and I went to the compartment carriage, which stood on the foundation. In the corridor there was little-passable mud, in some compartments the doors were knocked out. From behind one door, a scandal was heard, ending with caresses with kisses and vows of allegiance, and then again turning into an op with selective abuse. This free concert continued indefatigably into the morning.

In the morning, the car did not want to start. The truck drivers had not yet woken up, there was no one to ask for help. Suddenly, a company of six people threw out of the administrator's door. Among them was a senior lieutenant DPSnik in uniform and with a token. I went up and asked: "Guys, can you help start my car?" They began the conversation by asking where and where I was going from. When he said that from Siberia to the Caucasus, they respected him, saying that in order to dare to overcome five and a half thousand kilometers on such a technique, one had to be a hero. After talking, the guys began to push the "Moskvichonka" with frantic force. Being with a hangover and having done ten laps in the parking lot, they were completely exhausted and wanted to give up this venture. But the starley said that he would not go anywhere until he started the car. Having rested, the guys began to roll me again, and my technique, sneezing a couple of times, purred in satisfaction, intending to continue the journey.

Thanking the guys, I drove onto the track and drove forward, meeting my dream. Not exceeding a speed of more than one hundred kilometers per hour, drove three hundred kilometers and ended up in Bashkiria. Thinking about his own, did not notice how the DPSnik came out on the road and waved his baton to me, ordering me to stop. I braked sharply and drove straight into the ditch. Getting out of the car, I thought: “Well, that's it! The pipe is the case! "

Two lieutenants came up to me and asked where I was in such a hurry. I submitted documents to one of them and said that he was very tired, because I get from afar, home, to the Caucasus. They looked at me, at the car, shook their heads and offered to get behind the wheel. One of them, driving a patrol car closer to mine, pulled out his own cable. The second one crawled under my wheelbarrow and secured it there. Pulling me out of the hole, they gave me my American license, PTSku and registration certificate without looking, while telling me to sleep for a couple of hours near them, and then continued on my way.

Half an hour passed. I could not sleep. Leaving the car, he went to the officers and said that I could not sleep, it would be better to go further. The guys didn't mind, they just asked me to be more careful. Thanking them, I dashed on, not guessing what "joy" awaits me ahead.

I shouldn't have sworn. "Free circus"

In vain I swore that I would not accelerate anymore. Such steep Ural descents and ascents began that at low revs it was not possible to climb these hills. In addition, a strong blizzard started, and I could no longer see which side I was driving on. A truck rushed towards, and it drove by. - Ugh! - I exhaled, - Thank God, it did! I am going up to the next pass. The motor began to sneeze and died almost at the very top. I didn't want to keep the handbrake on a steep incline. I twisted the steering wheel, backed up and propped the car up on the side rail of the road.

My wife and I slept a little. Then we felt that we were beginning to freeze. The car would not start. We had three gas cartridges with us, and we began to burn them. It helped for a little while. When the cold began to prevail, another portion of the gas was burned. Fortunately, by the morning the blizzard stopped, the frost began to subside. After waiting for dawn, we decided to pick up the things that we could carry away, and leave the car along with the computers and other moorings.

The released dogs ran away for a walk. Armed with a knife, they began to cut the ropes and tape. They ripped off the polyethylene from the car. They removed computers and processors, carefully placing them in the snow behind a fence. Next to them they put boxes with CD / DVD discs - someone will come in handy. Following this, we began to sort out the rest of the things - we put the necessary things in bags, we throw the "unnecessary" behind the fence.

A traffic police car drives up in the oncoming lane and two officers get out of it. They don't come close.

I have been serving in the police for twenty years, and this is the first time I've seen this?!? Get the car out of the way! - Shouted one militia.

My nerves were strained so that I didn't care who to recoup, and I answer him:
- Get down, slow down the movement. I’ll knock her over and she’ll fly away behind the fence at the bend.
- Are you crazy? - he is indignant.
“Anything is possible,” I answer.

At this time, a "sprinkler" drives up, treating the road, from icing. The officer brakes her and says to the driver:
- Take them in tow, drag them to refueling. We'll figure it out there.

The policemen get into the car, turn around and drive away.
- You don't need it ??? Can I take it? The driver of the "self-propelled barrel" asks, looking at the computers.

He quickly began to place our things in his cockpit. There was not enough space, and he began to attach them near the cistern. I called the dogs, hitched my would-be "Moskvich" to his "ZIL" and we drove off. On the way, my car started up. At the top, I deliberately braked sharply, the cable broke. I overtake the "sprinkler" and soon drove into a gas station, where the traffic police was waiting for me. As if nothing had happened, I ask them how to get to settlement... They told me to follow them and set off. Having far overtaken me, we stopped at an intersection. One of them got out of the car, and when I arrived, he showed me with a baton to go to the right. So they got rid of incomprehensible people, sending them to the neighboring Tatarstan of Bashkiria.

Goodbye, my friend, Moskvichonok. Then I go by train

I mentally thank the police for the fact that they did not direct me to the left, to Abdullino, from where the trains went to the Caucasus, but to Bugulma. My car ran briskly towards Bugulma, sneezing, coughing, but not stopping. After driving 25 kilometers, I found myself in the city center, where - at the crossroads, my faithful friend, stalled and finally died. People came up with an offer of their help. I asked them to help get the car out of the road, and they pushed it to the side of the road.

A guy came up to me, about twenty-eight or thirty. We talked to him. His name was Victor. He called on his cell phone and soon a Gazelle drove up. They took my car into tow, and we ended up at the station square. The guy said that he had a parking lot and a car repair shop outside the city, and the tow truck would be free only in the evening. When he learned that I had to leave, he and my wife went to get a veterinary certificate for the right to travel for dogs on the train. After 15 minutes, the certificates were in my hands. I asked him how much it cost. He laughed and waved his hand, they say - nothing.

Come on, Victor suggested to me: you leave the car with me, I leave you the address, you come and pick it up. I will repair it so that she even reaches Vladivostok. I replied that she served me well and died.
- OK, as you want. Wait here twenty minutes, I'll drive up.

About half an hour later, he returned with a man in a foreign car. Taking me aside, he said that this man, named Mikhail, would take us to Abdullino. He doesn't have to pay anything, just refuel the car. I gave Victor PTS, registration certificate and did not take the numbers. Victor, pointing to the Moskvich, said: “You take off the numbers and take the PTS. Perhaps you will change your mind and take her. " I just brushed it off in response. On the way, Mikhail told me that Victor was a local authority.

An hour and a half later we were in Abdullino, at the station. I thanked the driver and went to the ticket booths. I bought tickets. I leave the building. A policeman and a run-down boy come up to me. We checked the documents. They gave it away. They saw how many bags we had and came up again: "Let's go to the linear department."

It’s ten minutes before the train leaves. The captain comes out onto the porch, looks at the documents, asks where I am going. I explained everything to him and said that if I didn’t leave, let the prosecutor explain. He looked at us, at the dogs and gave the documents, letting go with God.

We ran to the train. Knowing that according to the rules, dogs are transported in the first vestibule from the locomotive, I run to the first carriage. The conductor, a fat, stupid and evil aunt, resisted: "I won't let you in, that's all!" Fortunately, the head of the train took us to the eighth carriage and ordered the young conductors to seat us.

We took turns on duty with the dogs in the vestibule. The passengers turned out to be normal people and did not make scandals, did not look askance, although Dina was angry and did not bark at very few people. So we got to where our fellow countrymen warmly welcomed us and took us to the village.

I went through a lot in my life: I worked in Moscow and abroad; rested on best resorts; left in taverns so much money that it would be enough for more than one foreign car. But my wife and I can safely say that we will not exchange our little house near the cemetery for any good. After living for three years in the village, we clearly appreciated how much more pleasant it is to take care of goats and a bird than to live in society and pretend to be something !!!

Question to the psychologist:

Hello, it seems to me that I am not living my life. My family is all right, my parents are together, I have a younger sister. I am 20 years old, I study, I work. Both my parents are Russian, and so am I. But the fact is that I feel like a Caucasian girl. At the age of 17, I converted to Islam. I feel the "hot blood" inside myself, I feel familiar in music, language, land, mentality. I am drawn to the Caucasus. I want to move there for permanent residence, study the language, absorb traditions, but there is fear and resentment that people will not accept me. Nobody is waiting for me there, there are no relatives or acquaintances there. I regret that I have wasted for 20 years, not on myself. I understand with my head that no matter what I do, I cannot change the fact, I am Russian and everyone else does not care what is inside me, no one will delve into this at a banal acquaintance. I'm afraid that I will have to come to terms with the fact that I was born in the wrong place and in the wrong one.

Please tell me how I can live with this, so that I will constantly have to explain something to people, provided that I have always lived without giving a damn about everything and everyone, according to the law “I do what I want”. And is all this normal from the point of view of psychology?

Psychologist Viktoria Vladimirovna Unterova answers the question.

Hello Rita! They say: "Be afraid of your desires - they can come true." Indeed, not always, when our dreams come true, we are ready for change. Sometimes it turns out that in the past life there were many advantages, that everything seemed completely different. It is worth remembering that any change carries its own characteristics, some of which will be positive, and some will be minuses, the "shadow side" of the situation.

And in order to judge whether it is worth changing your life radically, you only need one thing - to try on this new life for a while.

What prevents you from going to the Caucasus for a while? For 3 weeks, a month? Talk to local residents, assess how things are going with regard to employment, look around. And only after several such trips to make a global decision.

You don't have to explain anything to anyone. And decisions that are not to the detriment of your life and health, and the life and health of other people are completely normal.

You have the right to live the life you want. But it is worthwhile to think over everything well and realistically. Perhaps there are other people with the same desires as you. Try to meet like-minded people on thematic forums and talk to them. All this will help you to compose the most complete picture of future actions.

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